Dropping my chain with Clutch rear mech and no guide

Home Forum Bike Forum Dropping my chain with Clutch rear mech and no guide

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Dropping my chain with Clutch rear mech and no guide
  • I think anyone managing to keep a chain on with no guide (or thick-thin ring) and a clutch mech is a very very smooth rider, be that through going slower or being extremely good at unweighting and skimming the gnarr.

    So the people on here that say they do in fact keep it on with no guide or XX1 style ring, are what….lying? Riding like girls? Riding only fire roads and tarmac?
    My mate tried it where we ride and was like “err no, you need a guide”.
    I thought, nah bet it’s just his setup as the internet tells me you can! Off I go to the trails…err yep…chain dropping everywhere. It dropped when I rode off a curb for gods sake.

    rocketman
    Member

    I think it depends to some extent what kind of chain ring you have up front. Some time ago I ran a ghetto 1×9 by simply removing the granny and big rings and the chain used to come off even with a lower guide and a bash guard. Changing to a proper single chain ring cured it. It would seem the ramps and pins on a conventional middle ring make it all to easy for the chain to move

    Hi all. I have a full sus with 11-36 cassette, Shimano Clutch rear mech, 10spd chain and a Single speed 32 ring. I also have an E-Thirteen XCX guide I have been using.
    When I run with the guide, the chain has never ever dropped.

    When I run without the guide, I expected the clutch to help keep the chain on still, as I read that a lot of people on here run just a clutch rear mech and it’s fine. Even with the clutch done up tight, I drop chains like every few minutes. Sometimes it’s not even due to ruts/bumps and seems to be some kind of combination of resonance or suspension compression that does it.

    Do you think I should

    a) Stop chasing this problem and I am expecting too much from just a clutch rear mech.

    b) Look as whether I could shorten the chain some more to make it tighter.

    Reason I mention b, is because I typically drop the chain when on faster downhill sections where I am in the smallest rear cassette cogs and the chain is slacker. I think I set the bike up to get the chain as tight as I could though.

    I know about the new XX1 style rings and have one on order, but I want to make sure my bike is setup as good as possible first using just a normal one.

    Even for their all singing, all dancing XX1, SRAM only claim that you can run without a chain guide in “some” situations.

    chrismac
    Member

    I think you need a single ring specific chain ring. Don’t forget that standard chain rings are designed to help the chain fall off to aid shifting!

    batman11
    Member

    Hi buddy just got one of these not tried it yet but there is thread on here some where about it/them ok.
    http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/works-components-104bcd-chainring-alternating-thickness-extended-tooth-design-270-p.asp

    Bats.

    Premier Icon Mad Pierre
    Subscriber

    The answer is a)

    I’ve even managed to drop the chain a few times with a clutch mech and 2×10 with an MRP 2X – when racing i.e. going very fast over very rocky/bumpy/techy stuff

    Reckon I’d get about a yard off road with a normal single ring and just a clutch mech?

    Premier Icon rOcKeTdOg
    Subscriber

    Riding like girls?

    you’ve got bigger cojones than me saying that in a derogatory way 😯

    daver27
    Member

    i’ve been running the same setup. and have just switched to one of those works components thick thin rings.

    i ran the top guide for a ride and then decided to try it for the last few trails of a ride last week.

    since then i have not run the top guide. I genuinely didn’t think it would work, but despite my best efforts i have not dropped the chain once.

    it could be riding style that helps. Do you back pedal into corners to weight the outside pedal? thats a classic for dropping the chain.

    How long is your chain? get it as short as possible with the rear suspension fully compressed and in the large sprocket. that will help.

    Also, having the clutch wound up solid won’t help. it needs some movement, not none at all.

    I can’t recommend the thick thin rings enough right now. time will tell how they go once they start wearing though.

    Premier Icon unklehomered
    Subscriber

    I got away with clutch no device for a quite a while with only very occasional drops, but as above, if you want it to really work get a thin/thick ring.

    it could be riding style that helps. Do you back pedal into corners to weight the outside pedal? thats a classic for dropping the chain.

    I don’t do that no.

    How long is your chain? get it as short as possible with the rear suspension fully compressed and in the large sprocket. that will help.

    Sure, I will look into this. I think it is as short as I was comfortable with when I set it up.

    I think you need a single ring specific chain ring. Don’t forget that standard chain rings are designed to help the chain fall off to aid shifting!

    I do have a single ring specific chain ring. An E-Thirteen G-Ring 32 tooth.

    I have a mate that rides with no guide on his hard tail and does not drop the chain. But then, that’s a hard tail with no chain growth/tightening and he does in fact, ride like a girl. ;o)

    EDIT: Arr, just remembered actually, my friend is running a type 2 SRAM one as opposed to my Shimano one. Hmm…

    Yep also guys I have a works one on order. :o)
    I just wanted to make sure I had the bike setup as good as possible to aid chain retention even without one, to make sure it works when I get it. Perhaps I should just slap it on when I get it and be done with it.

    I just posted this in the Works components thread:

    “Just to report that I ran my works 32 tooth the other day and I was amazed it kept the chain on throughout the entire ride. Before it would drop every ride several times without the guide on. I got fed up of trying it, even with a clutch mech done up tight it was still coming off. I put the new ring on and wow. Just forgot it was there the whole ride as it just worked and kept it on even over ridiculous terrain in top gear whilst shifting and cranking hard.”

    Premier Icon bungalistic
    Subscriber

    I’m running a works thick thin ring combined with a ten speed clutch mech and no chain guide. It’s been on for a couple of weeks and no dropped chains as yet (this includes a trip to morzine)

    Previously I had a clutch mech, hope ring and mrp 1x guide. The chain would drop if I back pedalled but was ok otherwise as the guide kept it from jumping off the top.

    My experiences:

    HT, 1×9 non-clutch mech – dropped a lot
    HT, 1×9 non-clutch mech + top-guide – never drops, does jam very occaisionally
    FS, 2×10 clutch mech – dropped and jammed once during a race!
    FS, 2×10 clutch mech + bottom roller – TBA

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)

The topic ‘Dropping my chain with Clutch rear mech and no guide’ is closed to new replies.