I’ve considered drilling out the cable stop, and also routing it like the Genius by drilling the plastic front mech stop in the BB guide, as you suggest.

But you still have the faff of a cable / hose to thread through the frame, (which knowing droppers will need removing for a service / fix in a years time) and/or the faff of drilling etc.

I could just wait till January and order the wireless Magura.
That seems like a much better solution.

Routing the reverb hose internally on my Zesty (hose goes in at bottom of seat tube) is literally a 2 minute job using a spare bit of hose and the supplied connector (which is designed for this purpose). I wouldn’t let this put you off internal routing. Not sure I want to be the guinea pig for mk1 wireless dropper from a company that has no history of making droppers.

Razorrazoo hit the nail on the head, WHATEVER dropper you fit, be it cable or hydraulic, you’ll need to drill out the stop.

I’m glad someone finally said this as you could have ended up very disappointed

Also as Razorrazoo says, fitting a dropper is a few minute job. The only tricky bit is the trial and error of hose length.

In terms of drilling out a front mech port- I did this on my carbon 29er HT and it was pretty painless. If you can enlarge the hole in 0.5mm steps and keep the drill bit tip lubed then it makes a lot of difference to how easy the job is. I also found longer drill bits (used Screwfix) help give clearance of the drill chuck on other parts of the frame

Actually, if I do drill out the stops, just how do you thread the hose all the way from the seat tube, round the BB, up the frame and out of the correct hole near the head tube.

You just follow the instructions for a Reverb stealth.

For me it was thread old outer into the head-tube. It came out at the bottom of the down-tube. I then rethreaded it up into the seat-tube and out. Then screw the Reverb hose onto the old outer and pull through. Took a couple of goes but fine.

For me it was thread old outer into the head-tube. It came out at the bottom of the down-tube. I then rethreaded it up into the seat-tube and out. Then screw the Reverb hose onto the old outer and pull through. Took a couple of goes but fine.

Removing the fork is an extra few minutes but can help if you need a bit more access in the headtube or want to feed some zip ties on the hose to stop rattles (it’s a good idea to remove the forks anyway to drill the stop so it makes sense to do it all together). If you have a fancy frame with a BB port then getting the hose around the BB area is super quick, otherwise removing the cranks and BB can be helpful but not necessary to bring the hose up the seattube. My “stealth” fit was on a non-dropper, normal frame and proved pretty painless