- Dropped torque wrench
Don’t drop when you open it up on it’s return.
I’m sure the PF delivery people will have handled it with reverence – no chance of them slinging it in the van.
I’m curious though, what mechanism is it that makes a TR (which consists of a spring and other fixed mechanical bits) go out of calibration if you drop it? I can’t see anything obvious which is likely to adjust when doing that.
I own a couple which have never been calibrated – will try the ghetto calibration method suggested above and see how they are (would be interesting if a few of us can report back).Posted 4 years agoLeeWMember
The type 2 tools – setting type are a little hardier than the type one type which have a indicating dial on them. On pretty much every site I visit, torque tools are calibrated every three months 😯 Most sites expect the user to check them before they use them.
Replied to your email Chris.Posted 4 years agothisisnotaspoonSubscriber
sorry you lost me tinas when you started trying to tell me a tube has a torque limit.
same with handlebars with torque limits – its bullshit and you know that.
it has a limit on clamping force – that doesnt equal a torque.
its an arbitary number.
That was actualy exactly my point. Unless you’ve sat down and done a load of maths, tightening your stem to the correct torque for the bolts it fairly pointless, you’ll crush the bars first.
Same with a front mech clamp, if you torqued it upto 75% of the breaking strain of the bolt (or more likley, the alloy clamp on a higher end mech), you’d probably crush the seatube, ditto the carbon handlebars, steerer. The recomended torque printed on them makes a whole host of assumptions, unless you know what they were, does it really matter how accurate your torque wrench is? It’s probably not the least accurate part of the procedure!Posted 4 years ago
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