- Dropped torque wrench
Ah, lovely outcome 🙂Posted 5 years ago
Not yet, not seen any cake.Posted 5 years ago
Don’t drop it when you open it up on it’s return.Posted 5 years ago
I’ll drop you an email, thanks very much.Posted 5 years ago
Drac, no danger!
I dunno you’ve even dropped your email.Posted 5 years ago
Don’t drop when you open it up on it’s return.
I’m sure the PF delivery people will have handled it with reverence – no chance of them slinging it in the van.
I’m curious though, what mechanism is it that makes a TR (which consists of a spring and other fixed mechanical bits) go out of calibration if you drop it? I can’t see anything obvious which is likely to adjust when doing that.
I own a couple which have never been calibrated – will try the ghetto calibration method suggested above and see how they are (would be interesting if a few of us can report back).Posted 5 years ago
The type 2 tools – setting type are a little hardier than the type one type which have a indicating dial on them. On pretty much every site I visit, torque tools are calibrated every three months 😯 Most sites expect the user to check them before they use them.
Replied to your email Chris.Posted 5 years ago
I’ve mentioned this on one or two threads before, sorry for being boring; set the torque wrench, do three practice “clicks” on a spare fastener mounted in a vice, then do the real thingPosted 5 years ago
Reminds me, I really should bring mine into work to check it…Posted 5 years ago
Can’t imagine those China brand torque wrenches are ever calibrated in the first placePosted 5 years ago
What does that mean about these types that get delivered with bikes?
Posted 5 years ago
I got one of those Superstar PSA ones and it came with a genuine looking calibration certificate..Posted 5 years ago
sorry you lost me tinas when you started trying to tell me a tube has a torque limit.
same with handlebars with torque limits – its bullshit and you know that.
it has a limit on clamping force – that doesnt equal a torque.
its an arbitary number.
That was actualy exactly my point. Unless you’ve sat down and done a load of maths, tightening your stem to the correct torque for the bolts it fairly pointless, you’ll crush the bars first.
Same with a front mech clamp, if you torqued it upto 75% of the breaking strain of the bolt (or more likley, the alloy clamp on a higher end mech), you’d probably crush the seatube, ditto the carbon handlebars, steerer. The recomended torque printed on them makes a whole host of assumptions, unless you know what they were, does it really matter how accurate your torque wrench is? It’s probably not the least accurate part of the procedure!Posted 5 years ago
A massive thumbs up for Lee who has checked it for me and returned it with a nice certificate showing the scale values against the true values. Thanks.Posted 5 years ago
So, was it out of calibration/ has he adjusted it for you??Posted 5 years ago
and did you send him cake?Posted 5 years ago
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