Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
  • Dozy MTB valve question…….
  • londoncommuter
    Free Member

    Excitedly I picked up my first ever MTB yesterday. As a roadie, the idea of something that weighs the same as a small car and is optimised to cover you in mud is going to take some getting used to.

    Anyway, apologies for the very stupid question but what do I do for tubes and pump?

    I assumed everything in the MTB world was Schrader so I need a new hand pump and spare tube for rides as I only have road Presta pumps. The tubes seem to come in both versions though. From reading a bit it seems the rim drilling is a little larger for Schrader so maybe not the best idea to use Presta tubes?

    To complicate things though, I’m quite keen on going tubeless and Trek advise these are the ones for my rims. They’re Presta as most tubeless kits seem to be.

    If in an emergency I have to use a tube and it has to be Schrader that means making sure I have a pump which can do both which is a pain.

    Sorry this is a bit rambling. What do you guys do?

    As an aside, I got a Topeak RaceRocket yesterday as it can do both but they’re famed for unscrewing the valve inners on Presta which is something I really could do without.

    https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/equipment/cycling-components/bike-tyres/bike-tyre-accessories/bontrager-round-base-tlr-valve-stem/p/27395/

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    All my rims, valves, tubes and pumps are Presta.

    Schrader is OK for tractors.

    Or for gorillas who lack any mechanical feel.

    bigblackshed
    Full Member

    Schrader valves are better for tubeless. Bigger bore to get more air in quicker to seat a tyre. Replacement inner valves are readily available and don’t cost a fortune.

    Yours.

    A. Gorilla.

    OP.

    You red to double check what valves are on your rims, don’t assume anything. If your rims are presta valves then any tubeless valves will work, just make sure the valve core is removable for easy of seating the tyre and to put tubeless goo in get it out with a syringe. If they are schrader valves then there are a lot fewer valves available. Stans Hugo valves work very well, but expensive.

    spooky_b329
    Full Member

    I think most people use Presta now, so it depends on what comes on your bike. You will probably want a larger volume presta pump so it doesn’t take 400 pumps to reinflate the tyre 🙂

    P.S the trick with mud is to just go out expecting (and trying) to get completely covered, it’s all part of the grin factor :). You know it’s a good one when you decide to just remove your shoes and then stand in the shower so you can wash the mud from each item of clothing as you undress…

    dhrider
    Free Member

    99% of MTBs are Presta now, and rims aren’t drilled wide enough to even take Schrader valves.

    I’d bet it’s Presta on your Trek and Presta tubes will also be fine.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Presta is standard but rims can sometimes be drilled from Schrader. The little nut you find on spare tubes should be used to make the presta valve stem seat in the larger hole.

    I carry my road CO2 and tools. With a spare tube. Done tubeless too.

    londoncommuter
    Free Member

    Blimey, you’re quite right. I’ve got Presta valves in there at the moment. Bit embarrassed now.

    I’ve got so many MTB preconceptions. The main issue will be my OCD and clean bikes.

    Was planning on using the Bontrager valves and rim tape just as they (obviously) recommend them. Any reason not to?

    Also, was going to use 520 SPD pedals as I’m completely used to them after years of commuting but are flats a good idea to start with?

    Lastly, Stans Dart or Dynaplug Racer for tubeless repair?

    Many thanks

    martinhutch
    Full Member

    Was planning on using the Bontrager valves and rim tape just as they (obviously) recommend them. Any reason not to?

    No, unless they are massively more expensive than the competition. Standard TESA tape off ebay works out cheaper if you’ve got more than a few wheels to do.

    Also, was going to use 520 SPD pedals as I’m completely used to them after years of commuting but are flats a good idea to start with?

    Use what you like using.

    Lastly, Stans Dart or Dynaplug Racer for tubeless repair?

    They’re all much of a muchness. I have a kit that cost a fiver.

    As for pumps unscrewing valve cores, I always used to hate Lezynes for this, but these days I carry one of these, weighs a gram and means it will never happen again.

    spooky_b329
    Full Member

    What’s that widget called Martin? Presta inner valve unscrew preventer? I want one 🙂

    martinhutch
    Full Member

    A ‘presta valve core removal tool’

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-valve-core-remover/

    I’m sure anodized versions that fit in your steerer tube or bar-end are available for forty quids though.

    coatesy
    Free Member

    Personally, i’d go with the Bontrager rimstrips every time, think they come in at around £6, just snap into place with no faff whatsoever, seat the tyre nicely, and don’t split or come unstuck either. No contest whatsoever.

    molgrips
    Free Member

    MTB pumps tend to be wider bore than road ones because you need more air at lower pressure.

    As for bikes being muddy – ignore it. Also search this forum for advice on Putoline. It’s completely waterproof chain wax which doesn’t get gunky so you can just hose off your bike after a ride and it’s spotless and doesn’t need reapplying.

    Tough time of year to start though. Depending on where you live and what trails you want to ride the trails may be very claggy and the tyres that come with a new bike may struggle for grip. Don’t lose heart though just ask on here.

    I use SPDs for normal XC biking, only have flats on my long travel fun bike.

    greyspoke
    Free Member

    520s are great for mud clearing. A slight tendency to unclip when you don’t want it when things get lumpy, platform type SPDs are a bit more secure.

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