mail sent
Thanks Simon
fingers crossed I don’t have to wait to long.

Hello mail sent,many thanks.

I’m Interested in the 1800, but would there be significant weight saving/improved runtime for a in a single 900? Could the housing be pared down for that too?

I’m thinking more for Helmet light run off 1 or 2 18650s

My current 1*18650 P7 torch on the noggin is OK but the same or more output with less weight would always be ideal…

Any idea on costs for the single kit yet?

I don’t know if one of these would run off 1×18650. If it could I’d be interested in finding out how long for etc. Now that would be a Joystick Maxx destroyer!

Well that was my thinking…

I bought an R2 Drop in ages ago with a view to building a simple, small lightweight helmet lamp with a flying lead to a 1 or 2 cell Battery pack/switch for use only as a Single Track/Dark Descents Helmet Lamp, but never finished the exercise…

A Single XML could well fit the bill if the < 8.4 V – LFlex Driver would let me use 7.4 V –ish (2 x 18650)…

Out of my depth a bit there but would really not knowing anything about the driver…

Small and light with a 1-1.5 Hr Burn time (from 2 x 18650) on full is all I would really need to be honest…

The Lflex will run a single XML from a single 18650 that is what it was designed for
or multiple 18650`s in parallel .keeping it at 3.7 volts it wont do single xml and 7.4 volt pack

for full whack it will be taking 3 amps from the battery so a single on full wont do an hour but it also dims
ideal setup would be single xml / LFlex and 2 cell 3.7 volt pack

or 2 xmls in series and a 7.4 volt pack .

as the only difference from single to double is one led and optic
the single is £72 plus pp
comes with bar mount you would need to make a helmet mount for it

I just built one and it weighs 50 grams but its a tight fit in the case for the switch and lflex plus cable entry but doable

@troutie – too much heat for even a big Hammond box to dissipate? If not, would be interested in an ‘internals’ kit 🙂

Hmmm, so 2 x 18650 in parallel should work a treat, I was hoping to assemble the battery pack and Switch together – remote from the lamp (Flying lead to Bag or Wrist strap mounted jobbie perhaps) which probably makes a little extra space in the housing but might become a wiring faff…

Does the switch have to be wired direct to the Driver or can I bridge that? will the driver detect switching via the power battery connections? Like a Torches tail cap clicky?

Well, I’ve already built two dual XPG’s in hammond boxes, one bar mount, one helmet mount. So I don’t really need another lamp…….but I do want one of these 😀

Put me down for one H6flex dual lamp please…….I’m so weak….

Dr Rad

might get away with a standard box and a small finned sink on top
or just keep moving fast .

Cookeaa no you need to connect to the proper terminals on the Lflex
though you can still do the remote switch as long as you dont go very long with the cable .

Flicker drop me a mail if you already haven’t

Hi Chris

Got my kit yesterday and started building it, a couple of questions, with the Laura Optics do I glue them to the stars or to the flange at the front of the casing? And is there an idiots guide to programming the driver, I had a look at the Taskled website and was slightly confused. I am only looking for a high, low, off setting.

Mounting the light to my helmet using a Halfords helmet bracket for £4.99, will post some pics up once its finished.

You glue them to the flange at the corners and then the lexan to make it all nice and waterproof

a gaggle of pic to help here http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/amticoman/DIY%20STEP%20BY%20STEP/

I was going to add some text to them but need a roundtuit

afraid you will need to read and inwardly digest the Effing manual

Can I inadvertantly set the output current to 6000mA and fry my LEDs?
Printed the manual off, might understand it on the 5th pass.

Yes thats possible

one thing that is important is to set the thermal protection to 50 or 60 degrees

Would I be able to get the single kit without the housing/mount? If so, how much?

I’m assuming I could run the LFlex with a 7.4V pack.

Thanks
Amit

Trout- did you recieve my money for the Bflex driver?

Amit

Afraid you cant use single led and Lflex on a 7.4 volt pack
one xml Lflex = 3.7 volt battery
2 xml / Lflex = 7.4 volt battery

Ambrose Checked my paypal acc and no monies from yourself in there

Hey Troutie, any news on the lupine nighttroutmare conversion?
😆

Hi Netdonkey

I have only just got to it in the order of things its not looking good
as a host very limited space inside with awkward lips so a heatsink
wont just slip in there .
I need a bit of staring at it but am going to the lakes for a week so wont be able to do owt till I return.

I gather you are in the area this weekend I can leave you a Double XML light and battery built up
as in the kits to have a go with and see what you think .
as the cost of one of those kits ready built would be about the same as buggering about with the Lupine head .and handle the heat better too

Trout,

If you think the double XML is a better way forward then I am happy to take you advice. How about I take a double XML kit off you and I can stick the old lupine on the commuter / lend to a friend list. Let me know how much you want based on the money I paid u last time. Are they in stock? I could pick one up this weekend?

Many thanks this is proper public service stuff

man you do some cool lights (currently have a hope vision epic 2 led lightset/have wanted some of your powerful lights for a while)unfortunately am paying for some rush tickets,then i have to buy a new guitar/amp as i sold my last ones to pay some bills.i can assure you though that when i have the funds,i will be contacting you to buying some of your lights.sorry to drone on,but you definitely do some great lights. 🙂

Botheration- I’ll try again.

Is it the blueyonder email address you want me to PPal the money to?

Hi Yah,
Would a Llabartlett please check his inbox settings or send me his details again from another email address.
I have tried replying but my replies keep getting bounced back to me.
Thanks
Smudge

Finished building my Troutie 1800 Lumen light last night, and wanted to share some of my experiences.

I found it really hard to solder to the Taskled Driver, the solder pads are tiny and you need a small tip on the soldering iron and a steady hand.
Don’t use too much sealant when you glue/seal the Optics/Lexan, I used far too much and it ended up between the Optic and the Lexan, fortuneately I was quick enough to disassemble and wipe the excess glue off.
Its easy to program the Driver, don’t be put off by the manual, read it several times and then read it again, as long as you can count to 13 it shouldn’t be a problem.

Using it for the first time tonight, it was really impressive when compared to a P7 in the back garden.
I was surprised by how hot the case got, I have set the thermal cutout to 50 degrees C, so hopefully it will be fine.

Many thanks to Troutie for an excellent piece of kit.

Doug

Cheers Doug.
I was wondering when some of the builds would surface.

Yes the lflex is a bit on the small size. but a nice little driver .
once you are out on the trails heat should not be a problem and of course the driver
will look after the leds and itsself

Hi Chris,

Thanks again for leaving the bits out for me. I had a quick look around the box but could not spot the lupine. Any chance you could post it back to me at some point? Let me know the cost and I will paypal you it.

I have a 7.4 and 7.2 battery in the garage. I was planning on using the 7.4 but wondered what would happen if I use 7.2 (The 7.2 is nominal so wondering if the company are being cautious with a 7.4 setup?) am i likely to fry anything or will it just not work?

My final question before I finish the wet and drying and send it off for anodising is about setting the power. I am tring to work out what to set low med and high to based on your beam shots. Should i be going for 500ma 1500ma and 3000ma?

Hoping to take some build photos and post back soon

NetDonkey – I have my configured in Duo Mode with L5 at 3000mA, once you have your head around how to configure the driver, its really easy to change the setup.

Not sure how you determine what your intermediate power levels are, you configure the driver to give the Max current L5 and the other levels are scaled from this, there is a table for the H6Flex (I am assuming you are using the LFlex) which gives current output for each power level, but this is for the older driver which doesn’t support 3000mA.

First ride last night, and the light was amazing (for 10 minutes), it was totally swamping the 4x XPGs that I was using on my bars, the Laura Optics give a nice wide beam without the sharp cutoff at the edges that the Reginas give.
Unfortuneately after 10 minutes the light would only turn on for 60 seconds before flashing 8/9 times and turning off. Once home I got out the manual to find that the default Voltage Cut-off was set at 12V and I was using a 12V battery, I tweaked it down to 11V and it seemed to be OK until the Thermal Cut-out kicked in, when the light dimmed, this was indoors with no airflow and the casing got quite hot to the touch, once cooled full power was again available.
I have charged the battery (12V Lion CCTV battery from Ebay) and will try a full run tonight.

thesurfbus – is this the type of battery you are using?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Portable-12V-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-Pack-4800mAh-/250725312575?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6064a83f

If so could you let me know the dimensions and weight? It looks like the chepest way of powering the light. Although it looks like you might be having problems…

I’ve been using one of those to power a p7 for a while (and a brief test on a twin XM-L was fine).

110x60x15mm
~210g

FunkyDunc – Yes thats the battery, I have been using it with 4x XPGs with no problems, they seem to have got cheaper as well, think I will buy another.
The only downside to the battery is the shape, as it doesn’t lend itself to fitting on a frame, I had been mounting mine to the headtube with a big Velcro strap. I did start to take it apart to see if it could be rebuilt in a different shape, but gave up and put it back together.
There is another CCTV battery that is twice the size, which I might fit into a water bottle for the bigger rides.

I am hoping all my problems will be sorted now.

There is also a 6800mAh version which is 85x62x20mm, this would extend the battery life of two XMLs on full to just over 3 hours, there is also a tiny 1800mAh version which would be handy to keep in the back pocket as a backup.

I ran a soak test last night on the light, I set the Voltage Cutoff to 10V and the Thermal cutout to 60 degrees C, I was using a 12V 4800mAh battery.
The ambient temperature was 3 degrees C, but after 10 minutes the Thermal Cutout kicked in, I had an old computer fan which I rigged up and there were no further Thermal Cutouts.
The light ran for just under 90 minutes on high (3A) power, where the Voltage Cutout switched the light off, I checked the battery with the multimeter and it was 10.3V.
So the light performed perfectly, the only thing I need to tweak is the Voltage Cutoff, I was thinking of setting it to 9V (75%), any thoughts if this would damage the battery?

I wouldn’t worry about heat. My twin xm-l setup has (I would guess) half the surface area and is only vaguely warm to touch when riding (30C at most).

My P7 setup is similar outside but when it’s occasionally used in the attic it will get to over 60C in a matter of minutes. Amazing what a bit of airflow will do.

Hello to trout,iv sent you a couple of emails,just wondering if you got them as my mail is playing up,iv been communicating with smudge by text?it was to order two twins and one single.please.

Hi, Could I also request a price for a Lflex driver, XML led and regina reflector. Many thanks great post

i am away on hols till the weekend with very iffy tinternet so will catch up with the mails when I get back

Lowered the cutoff voltage to 9V and ran the light until it cut out, again got just under 90 minutes on Full Power,.
I guess its no surprise but those cheap 12V CCTV Batteries are not as good as they say on the tin. But at £15 a pop they are still good value for money.
Not looking forward to the clocks changing next week, as it will be less time to use my lovely new light.

Right project finished. I decided on a trimode set-up using the 2nd, 4th and 5th brightness settings. I found, filing the LEDs a bit fiddly. you have to get pretty close to the pads. Other than that all went well.

I was going to have the case anodised but had heat and conductivity concerns and a burning desire to finish it.

Here are the beam shots using a 7.4v 6800mAh battery at a 3000mA drive current. burn times to follow

L2

L4

L5

Hello smudge,batteries received,many thanks for fast services.