Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
  • Ditching the big ring
  • uphillcursing
    Free Member

    So I have three bikes with triple chainsets on. Apart from one occasion that I can remember I never use the big ring on two of them.

    What I do have is a yearning to stick a bash guard on those two. What I do not want to do is buy new XT front mech/shifters etc. Will I encounter any game stopping problems if I just merrily swap out the big ring for a bash guard?

    I can’t seem to think of any reason but thought I lay myself open to ridicule and check with the fountain of all knowledge.

    Duane…
    Free Member

    Will I encounter any game stopping problems if I just merrily swap out the big ring for a bash guard?

    No.

    johnellison
    Free Member

    Will I encounter any game stopping problems if I just merrily swap out the big ring for a bash guard?

    +1 for No.

    Just move your front mech closer to the middle ring and adjust the shifter stops accordingly. Depending upon the riding you want to do or terrain you frequent you might want to fit a slightly larger middle ring, say 34 or 36 teeth. This will give you a broader spread of usable gears without overlaps.

    mikewsmith
    Free Member

    nope none, just shorten the chain to suit

    j40aja
    Free Member

    I did exactly what you’re planning on doing late last year.

    I fitted a Hope bash to replace a 42t big ring on my 10 speed triple XT chainset. The only other things I did was to wind in the top limit screw on the front mech which prevents you accidentally trying to shift into the big ring and shortened the chain to suit.
    Works great, looks great can highly recommend doing the switch to double and bash!

    I am planning on fitted a medium cage rear mech but works fine with the long cage fitted at the moment.

    uphillcursing
    Free Member

    Thanks. Going to pull the trigger. Will get one initially i think.

    plyphon
    Free Member

    I done this last week with my XT cranks.

    Just make sure you have the right length bolts – I emailed CRC and asked, they were very helpful and the bolts were a perfect fit.

    Then just wind in the mech high stop. I didn’t even bother to shorten the chain as it was shifting perfectly. (Aint broke dont fix etc) Although I am aware a perfect scenario would be to shorten the chain also.

    joolsburger
    Free Member

    It’s a doddle to do but don’t forget to shorten the chain and wind in the top screw as has been said I didn’t adjust anything else and it works perfectly .
    I use a BBG bashguard which is light and very, very cheap.

    freeagent
    Free Member

    Yep – all good, I did the same (however I did actually change the chainset for a SLX double/bash) I just would the shift-stop screw in, and took a link out of the chain.

    chriswilk
    Free Member

    make a search for BBG bash guard. US company that makes cheap, neat Alu guards. About a tenner including delivery.

    Duane…
    Free Member

    Got a black Truvativ 32T bash, or a clear 36ishT e.13 Supercharger, happy to sell either pretty cheap if you’re interested.

    uphillcursing
    Free Member

    Thanks for the offer but just spunked for a Hope one.

    perthmtb
    Free Member

    Just move your front mech closer to the middle ring

    No, don’t do this. There lies the path of bad shifting and chain rub.

    Just wind in the limit screw so you don’t try and shift into non-existent big ring, and maybe shorten the chain a bit, as others have suggested.

    johnellison
    Free Member

    No, don’t do this. There lies the path of bad shifting and chain rub.

    I beg to differ. The cage of my front mech is about 2mm above the outer circumference of the bash ring, and I have no problems with bad shifting or chain rub.

    perthmtb
    Free Member

    I beg to differ. The cage of my front mech is about 2mm above the outer circumference of the bash ring, and I have no problems with bad shifting or chain rub.

    If you have a look at the inside profile of a 3x FD you’ll see wider ‘bits’ where the chain runs on each of the three chainrings, so you can use the whole range of the rear cassette without chain rub. In between these are narrower ‘bits’ so that the chain is guided accurately and quickly between rings during a change.

    So, if you then take the big ring off, and lower the mech, the remaining two rings are still in the same place but the FD has moved in relation to them, so the chain is now running in the narrower bits when on the rings, and you’re shifting on the wide bits.

    Will it still shift – yes – its not rocket science as all the FD really does is yank the chain off one ring and send it in the general direction of another, but all that clever design work and intricately shaped ramps and bumps inside the FD cage that’s there to make your shifting experience as smooth as silk, is wasted. Try putting your FD back where it was, you may be surprised…

    If you’re still not convinced, ask yourself this… If my FD shifted fine between the granny and middle when I was on a triple, why would I need to move anything when I simply don’t shift into the big ring anymore?

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