Ditching the big ring
So I have three bikes with triple chainsets on. Apart from one occasion that I can remember I never use the big ring on two of them.
What I do have is a yearning to stick a bash guard on those two. What I do not want to do is buy new XT front mech/shifters etc. Will I encounter any game stopping problems if I just merrily swap out the big ring for a bash guard?
I can’t seem to think of any reason but thought I lay myself open to ridicule and check with the fountain of all knowledge.Posted 5 years agojohnellisonMember
Will I encounter any game stopping problems if I just merrily swap out the big ring for a bash guard?
+1 for No.
Just move your front mech closer to the middle ring and adjust the shifter stops accordingly. Depending upon the riding you want to do or terrain you frequent you might want to fit a slightly larger middle ring, say 34 or 36 teeth. This will give you a broader spread of usable gears without overlaps.Posted 5 years agoj40ajaMember
I did exactly what you’re planning on doing late last year.
I fitted a Hope bash to replace a 42t big ring on my 10 speed triple XT chainset. The only other things I did was to wind in the top limit screw on the front mech which prevents you accidentally trying to shift into the big ring and shortened the chain to suit.
Works great, looks great can highly recommend doing the switch to double and bash!
I am planning on fitted a medium cage rear mech but works fine with the long cage fitted at the moment.Posted 5 years agoplyphonMember
I done this last week with my XT cranks.
Just make sure you have the right length bolts – I emailed CRC and asked, they were very helpful and the bolts were a perfect fit.
Then just wind in the mech high stop. I didn’t even bother to shorten the chain as it was shifting perfectly. (Aint broke dont fix etc) Although I am aware a perfect scenario would be to shorten the chain also.Posted 5 years agoperthmtbMember
Just move your front mech closer to the middle ring
No, don’t do this. There lies the path of bad shifting and chain rub.
Just wind in the limit screw so you don’t try and shift into non-existent big ring, and maybe shorten the chain a bit, as others have suggested.Posted 5 years agoperthmtbMember
I beg to differ. The cage of my front mech is about 2mm above the outer circumference of the bash ring, and I have no problems with bad shifting or chain rub.
If you have a look at the inside profile of a 3x FD you’ll see wider ‘bits’ where the chain runs on each of the three chainrings, so you can use the whole range of the rear cassette without chain rub. In between these are narrower ‘bits’ so that the chain is guided accurately and quickly between rings during a change.
So, if you then take the big ring off, and lower the mech, the remaining two rings are still in the same place but the FD has moved in relation to them, so the chain is now running in the narrower bits when on the rings, and you’re shifting on the wide bits.
Will it still shift – yes – its not rocket science as all the FD really does is yank the chain off one ring and send it in the general direction of another, but all that clever design work and intricately shaped ramps and bumps inside the FD cage that’s there to make your shifting experience as smooth as silk, is wasted. Try putting your FD back where it was, you may be surprised…
If you’re still not convinced, ask yourself this… If my FD shifted fine between the granny and middle when I was on a triple, why would I need to move anything when I simply don’t shift into the big ring anymore?Posted 5 years ago
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