Di2 parts tick list.
So, now that 12 speed is the latest must have I have managed to pick up 11 speed Ultegra shifters, rear and front mechs on ebay/facebook. That is where it gets tricky; can anybody tell me what I need in the way of cables for it? It is going on an internally cabled XL frame. One or two junction boxes? Thanks.Posted 5 months ago
2 junction boxes – A which goes under your stem, includes the charging port and LEDs and connects the shifters to a single cable that feeds into your downtube and B which lives around your BB and connects A to the battery, rear and front mech. You might also want the wireless module which is just an in-line connection somewhere in the system so just needs another short cable.
Cables – shifter to A x 2, A to B, B to front mech, B to rear mech, B to battery – lengths will depend on your frame,Posted 5 months ago
2 junction boxes.Posted 5 months ago
Cables – lengths depend on your frame
Battery and charger.
have a look on evans, quite a few bits of di2 over the last few weeks in the warehose salePosted 5 months ago
Bar end junction A (EW-RS910) if you can run the wires in your bars
I have two cables running from there, one to the right shifter and one to junction B (SM-JC41) in the downtube (with the optional inline wireless unit EW-WU111 along the way).
Seatpost battery, RD and FD all connect from junction B
Left shifter is wired directly from right shifter
Lots of info on here – https://bettershifting.com/Posted 5 months ago
Thanks everybody! two questions; 3 or 5 port for box A? running hydraulic brakes. And there is an ebay auction for this. “Full Set 4 x Shimano EW-SD50 Di2 Cables 950mm 650m 350mm 300mm” any reason not to?Posted 5 months ago
That looks like all the internal cables but not shifters to A, so you’d still need some more. Think the 3 port box A is the usual option, not sure what the extra 2 ports would do?
The bettershifting site gives a good guide to setting up the mechs too – it’s obviously not the same as mechanical setup so worth reading through the whole process and following it step by step.Posted 5 months ago
The bar end junction box is a much neater way of it doing it rather than having it under your stem, particularly if you have an internally routed frame.
You’ll have to decide whether you want the Y cable or two separate cables between shifters, dont think it really matters unless you are running out of sockets in your junction box due to climbing shifters etc.
The cables are crazy expensive for what they are, but the one that gets me the most is the £75 for a charger – nice little earner, compared to just shoving a regular USB socket on it.Posted 5 months ago
Measure your bike and draw up a little diagram of where your putting everything to determine cable lengths, much better to have too much than not enough!Posted 5 months ago
If your frame has internal routing, I’d also recommend shelling out for the Park cable guide tool, will make life much easier!
Think its the IR-1.2Posted 5 months ago
Always use the di2 tool for removing cables! Also stashing the battery can be interesting (especially if you dont have a purpose made plastic bung for your seat post).Posted 5 months ago
For clarity I WILL NOT be building it.Posted 5 months ago
Also note I’ve been advised the wireless module and bar end junction box won’t work with older version of the battery. It’s but of a minefield if you are sourcing and mixing new and old bits!Posted 5 months ago
I am buying a new battery and cables and second hand junction boxes. I have dead comfy USE summit carbon bars so won’t be trying a bar end junction box.Posted 5 months ago
not sure what the extra 2 ports would do?
Is for TT bikes where they have 2 sets of shifters?Posted 5 months ago
or sprint shifters on the iside of the dropsPosted 5 months ago
Its really the simplest installation once cables are pulled through.Posted 5 months ago
Also bar end box fits any type of bars.
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