Di2 bike build (help a curious newby)

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  • Di2 bike build (help a curious newby)
  • cyclistm
    Member

    Okay, so in my hunt for hydro brakes, I’ve discovered that Di2 shifters and hydro brakes are cheaper than their mechanical cousins. This has got me thinking about a full conversion to 1*11 on the cross bike.

    Ignoring wheel compatibility for now, if I buy some RS785 shifter/brakes, I would then need:
    A battery (SM-BTR2?)
    A junction box (internal or external*)
    An assortment of cables/wires
    6870 di2 rear mech

    Anything I am missing from the above list?

    *How do I know if I need an external or internal junction box? my frame has the provision for internal cable routing, does this mean it can take an internal battery?

    Thanks all

    M

    Premier Icon jamiep
    Subscriber

    I was originally going to do this but read more recent reviews of those shifters, which weren’t too favourable with the passing of time versus when they were originally released. Plus the faff of individually sourcing all the gubbins. Ive gone for the £979 Ultegra R8070 kit on Merlin

    mariner
    Member

    There is a battery option with a jb built into the bottom of it.
    Use the mtb screen and connect shifter to screen and screen to battery/jb.
    Charge via the screen.
    The jb is located closer to the rd and fd so shorter cables but you need one possibly two exit points depending on set up and frame.
    The screen gives you blue-tooth access and you don’t need that add on blue-tooth thingy that never worked.
    Mtb and road are transparent to Di2 as long as you pick from the compatibility chart.
    https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.0.0-01-EN.pdf
    I managed to buy the wrong battery can you believe? So configure your system on paper then search for those part numbers. I got some good stuff off ebay and Bike24 sales.
    There are adaptors available for mounting batteries inside the seat tube so don’t get beguiled by a battery being described as external mounting.
    Cba to look up all the part nos but if you get stuck let me know.

    Premier Icon cookeaa
    Subscriber

    Is there a viable eTap option for drop-barred 1x yet?

    I know some people have apparently used an XT RD with Ultegra shifters…

    And as one further option apparently you can fit a Di2 climb lever to the inside of a TRP hylex hood to give you leccy shifting and hydraulic brakes for a relatively low price…

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    You need a charger too, which is ludicrously expensive!

    I’ve got the RS785 STIs/brakes and they’ve been great. Except for the cracked piston on the rear brake actually, but that’s just one of those things, I think caused by getting rather warm in the Alps.

    I personally prefer the hood shape on my ST-9070s, but they’ve got to put the reservoir somewhere, and they’re actually a bit more secure on rough roads because of it.

    Premier Icon dudeofdoom
    Subscriber

    Force AXS 1×12 is 900 squid on wiggle 🙂

    I have the RS785’s, mtb display (which needs the later battery) and the XT RD on my commuter and it’s actually very nice setup but its surprising how the cost will mount up as the wiring/connecters are expensive.

    (i paid 70 quid for a kit of 4 wires and the JB )

    I wrapped my battery in little bit of self amalgamating tape and lightly wedged it into my seatpost have seen then wrapped in foam and put in downtube as well so theres plenty of ways to hide the battery.

    Battery firmware updates via the battery charger can be a bit problematic

    cyclistm
    Member

    Ah yes, the thought of firmware updates is enough to put me right off. thanks for the input all, think I’ll give it a swerve for now.

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