Can anyone recommend some decent cone spanners?

In all the bike shops I’ve worked out we used Park tools, but their cone spanners don’t last long before they get chewed up.
I’ve since tried Pedro’s but they seem to be softer than Park. Chewed a set up on only a few hubs. Also tried Halfords ones which were garbage.

Maybe its your method not the spanners

What are you doing to the poor tools. Cone spanners only need a light touch.

Had no trouble with Pedro’s, had mine for 10 years

I just use the cheap ones that get sold everywhere under different brands- I think half of mine are Lifeline and the other half are ebay no-names but it’s all the same

bobbyspangles

Member

What are you doing to the poor tools. Cone spanners only need a light touch.

Except when you’re undoing them and the hub’s made of rust and mud. Though tbh in that case it’s probably smart to remove them in layers and you can use normal spanners for that

Yep, it’s the undoing bit that chews them up. Then they are less good at the fettling to get the bearing adjustment right. In fairness they still work (although I’ve binned quite a few Park ones in shops as they don’t seem to last).

I stick one end of the axle in a vice, then use a 17mm (or appropriate) ring spanner and just one cone spanner to hold the cone still when stripping a hub. Never had a problem with Park, or other cheap ones rounding as it’s under very little force.

Park have been the best of a bad bunch for me, though in fairness, we’re asking a lot from such a thin piece of metal.I try to use normal spanners on the lock nut whenever possible, though it often isn’t. As for requiring only a light touch, that’s generally not going to undo the vast majority of cones you’ll come across in a bike workshop.

^That’s the method (what ceept said). I can’t remember any circumstance where I haven’t been able to use an ordinary spanner on the locknut doing it this way.

Set of those knipex cone pliers will sort you right out.

I’ve ground down ‘normal’ open ended spanners with a flap disc that have lasted pretty well.

I ground down (to make thinner) a Decathlon pedal wrench, much betterer! TBF their proper cone wrench is alright as well.

Edit: As above I use standard 1/2 inch wrench/spanners on the lock nuts.

Modern cone spanners seem to be made of slightly hard grade of cheese.

I don’t recall having any problems with the imperial ones.

It’s not as if a lot of force needs to be used.

As others have said, spanners for spannering, cone spanners for adjusting.

Not had an issued with the more expensive individually sized Pedros ones.

The multi fit ones are shit and the park ones are garbage that splays even looking at a cone.

Only bit of Pedro’s I have is a full set of cone spanners . Even in a visual comparison you can see they will last better

Biggest issue I’ve had is some of the light novatec hubs have super narrow cone flats to adjust then lock the bearing preload and I’ve had to use the pressed tin park ones to fit the gap.

Shimano’s own cone spanner’s seem to lasting better than the park ones for us

Currently working on a hub with cartridge bearings but the locknut has recessed spanner flats (like a step if that makes sense). It is just a smidge too tight to get a normal spanner in meaning cone spanner in both lock ring and cone. Needless to say it’s done up to some ludicrous torque.

Hadn’t thought of Shimano. I’ve always been impressed with their tools. Will have a look

Coatsy: as others have said don’t use cone spanners to undo them. You can use one cone spanner and one normal spanner (or a vice).

Alternatively I got taught a good trick a few years ago. You don’t necessarily need to use cone spanners to undo the cones. Just use two normal spanners, one on each side of the hub and just undo the outer locknuts. When you have finished the service and you have locked the cones against the locknuts, you can again just use normal spanners to take up small amounts of play/fine adjust.

I just Park ones btw

Willyboy, appreciate what you’re saying, and use normal spanners when possible, but do enough hubs and you’ll come across plenty with slotted locknuts that you have to use cone spanners on. They’re good in that the spanners don’t slip off easily, but bad in that you’re forced to use a cone spanner.Life (and tools) suck sometimes.

Had anyone tried the hozan c504?

Good point.

If it’s rusty and covered in shizz then the hubs probably borked anyway.

I don’t come across threaded hub axles much these days but my old campag set always did a sterling job. However, I did double up. The flats were too shallow for a normal open ended spanner but we’re deep enough to fit two campag cone spanners.

I’ve tried things like the the knipex pliers before. The problem is that as soon as real force is needed most of my energy goes into gripping the tool. And the $300 price for a pair?!
Makes the Shimano spanners look cheap!