- D-Lock Recommendations
Having had the wife’s PX London Road pinched from the city centre at the weekend, with the chucky cable lock just sliced through, looking at D-Lock recommendations for her replacement bike.
Any particular recommendations? Or ‘types’ of locking mechanisms to avoid?
These look pretty good value to me …
Any thoughts, or other options to consider?Posted 3 months agoaustyMember
Just remember that all locks have weaknesses, learn what they are for D-locks and guard against it.
Mainly fill the cavity in the lock with wheels/street furniture etc. so you can’t get anything inside it to stop them twisting/stretching/bending it.
Don’t have the lock near the floor, if they have bolt cutters, they can use the floor to put all their bodyweight on one handle.
Park next to bikes that have poor locks and the thieves will go for easy pickings that are quick to get away with least attention.
Park where it’s busy, thieves don’t like being watched.Posted 3 months agoNorthwindSubscriber
I’ve got an Onguard Brute which was pretty cheap and certainly feels indestructible- it’s a 16mm shackle so too big for a lot of attacks. But I’ve no idea how strong it really is. They have a wee bit of a rep for jamming too I think, mine’s only used indoors and it’s been grand but maybe if it was full of rain that’d change
(kryptonite are a shower of dicks frankly but I have to say my old one for all it had the useless bumpable key, lasted a decade of exposure in scotland without missing a beat, that’s damn fine)Posted 3 months agojimdubleyouSubscriber
I leave an Abus U-Mini 401 lock at work for my commuter.
It’s quite small so once there’s a a wheel, a frame and a post/bike rack in it there’s not room for much else.
It can limit where you park but haven’t ever had any major issues.
I wouldn’t get anything less than a gold rated one.Posted 3 months agojefflSubscriber
I use this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kryptonite-new-york-std-nyl-lock-with-flexframe-bracket/ in a not very busy place in Sheffield for the commuter, London Road as well.
Been using it for 2.5 years and so far so good. D-Lock goes around the rear wheel, seat tube and bike rack. Have a cable lock that goes around the front wheel, front triangle and bike rack.
Only thing that is a bit annoying is that the pins in the lock or whatever they are can get out of alignment in the lock and the key can require a bit of fiddling to sort it.
Now I’ve said that I’ll leave work and probably find the bike missing 😆Posted 3 months agojoemmoSubscriber
This could be worth a look:Posted 3 months ago
It’s done in the Abus factory so there’s a bit of conflict of interest but seems to have been done fairly. FWIW I have Kryptonite Evolution, a Masterlock heavy chain and a cable for full belt and braces approach.petecMember
First comment (not mine, obviously) on the site isPosted 3 months ago
I am the author of probably the best guide on cycle locks and security available on the internet (http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/144109/), and this is one of the recommended locks. Almost all locks of 16mm thickness, or thicker, CANNOT be cut by hand operated bolt-cutters. Therefore this is an excellent lock, especially for the price. The more famous locks that are 4 or 5 times the price, may have better weather proofing. To increase weather proofing on this model, simply use Lithium Grease regularly, and the lock should last a long time. From time to time, when it needs to be cleaned, use WD40 (dry spray), then use the lithium grease afterwards for lubricationvincienupSubscriber
The point about length is crucial with D locks.
Longer D locks are a stupid idea unless the entire D part is full of stuff. An overly large D lock rattling round a frame and whatever it’s locked to is just begging to have a lever jammed in and yanked, popping the lock off the shackle. This sort of leverage attack is generally the quickest way to defeat a decent D lock, which is why the shorter versions exist.
The main problem with D’s is the sheer weight. Something like a New Yorker is heavier than most want to carry around. If the bike is going to be locked up for any length of time, they’re a good option but for quick visits, stuff like the hiplok belts can be more practical. D’s generally work best when you can leave them where you will use them.
Without wanting to do any teaching to suck eggs – any lock can be made crap if used inappropriately.Posted 3 months agokormoranMember
I have a battery powered grinder, it weighs nothing and cuts through most things like cheese. So pay attention to what you lock your bike too as it’s way quicker to zap a railing than fiddle with locks. I’ve also seen plenty of bikes where the frame is cut to take all the components and leave the lock untouched
After my cheap lock jammed in the centre of Edinburgh we went back with the grinder to cut it off. Hundreds of people about, massive shower of sparks etc etc. No one batted an eyelid and just stepped round us. It took about 5 seconds to cutPosted 3 months agoNorthwindSubscriber
kormoran – Member
After my cheap lock jammed in the centre of Edinburgh we went back with the grinder to cut it off. Hundreds of people about, massive shower of sparks etc etc. No one batted an eyelid and just stepped round us. It took about 5 seconds to cut
I was really surprised by how long it took me to cut a cheapish kryptonite (my boss locked it round his frame and then lost the key). Just went at it with a standard 4.5 cutting disc and even though it was only an 11mm or so shackle it still put up a decent fight.
I am the author of probably the best guide on cycle locks and security available on the internet (http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/144109/), and this is one of the recommended locks. Almost all locks of 16mm thickness, or thicker, CANNOT be cut by hand operated bolt-cutters. Therefore this is an excellent lock, especially for the price.
This is kind of rubbish advice. The bit about thickness is absolutely correct- 16mm is above the cutting limit of most boltcutters. But that doesn’t make it an excellent lock by itself, it could still be vulnerable to lock bumping, or twisting, or bursting open with a car jack, or all sorts of other things…Posted 3 months agovincienupSubscriber
A *good* chain is potentially a much better option, but the lock chosen is important. Chains can be more vulnerable if draped on the floor (hammer type attacks). Good chains make D locks look cheap and light, also.
Any lock solution is going to fail if there’s enough effort put in to beat it, and the points about railings, pipes etc being cut to work around or frames being chopped to get the components are all good too.Posted 3 months ago
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