- Crests – how much of a beating can they take?
I found Crests too light for my general tail riding. I ran them on a 456 Ti built up as a single speed trail bike with 120mm Reba’s. At the time I was 13st 10lb to 14st 2lb.
They were out of shape after the first week of riding, which I put down to the usual new wheel adjustment. I flat spotted on the third week, picked up numerous dings that deformed the bead and I had to true them every 2-3 weeks. After a summer of somewhat excessive maintenance on them, I stopped using them when I moved to a 29er, but I couldn’t see them lasting for more than a year of so really.Posted 4 years agoRamsey NeilMember
I thought there was a 90kg weight limit on those wheels however the strength of the wheels really depends on the quality of the build , which from Hope wasn’t as good as I expected but the real issue here is can you put up with the freewheeling noise , it’s a bit of a love it or hate it thing .Posted 4 years agobullitMember
Im 65kg and Ive run Crest rims on Pro2’s on my full suss for a while now. I generally get on with them but have had trouble when Ive run thinner sidewall tyres tubeless on the rear. I have killed two rear Crest rims with big dings , a crack and an irrepairable flat spot on rocky descents in the Highlands when using tubeless Conti rubber queen (non-UST) and HR (non-UST) on rear. I now only use UST rear tubeless tyres on them , keep an eye on the tyre pressure and they are lasting grand. the rims are cetainly not as hardy and ding resistant (IMO) as Mavic 719 or equivalent though.Posted 4 years agoclubberMember
They were out of shape after the first week of riding, which I put down to the usual new wheel adjustment.
New wheels (if well built) shouldn’t really need any adjustment.
however the strength of the wheels really depends on the quality of the build
true up to a point but a weak rim even well built will still be weak, just less weak than one built badly… From what I’ve heard and seen, crests are fairly robust for most riders but heavy riders will be outside the weight limit and therefore any warranty plus will potentially need more truing over time.Posted 4 years agonjee20Subscriber
true up to a point but a weak rim even well built will still be weak
But what weak rims are actually out there?
From what I’ve heard and seen, crests are fairly robust for most riders but heavy riders will be outside the weight limit and therefore any warranty plus will potentially need more truing over time.
There is no weight limit on Crests, only on Hope’s 24-hole Pro 3 builds which utilise them.Posted 4 years agoadshSubscriber
I too weigh 77kg and ride down south. I’ve got 2 pairs of Crests and find them pretty tough for what I do. The only issue I had was rim ding from a slow puncture that took a bit of persuasion to bend back and seal.
Pro 2 Evo with crests, rim tape and valves came in at 1530g with CXrays and brass nipples. Think the same build with DT comps was 1640g. Much as I love the ‘better’ build I can’t tell the difference. I should have spend the money on better hubs (ACs) and used a cheaper spoke like a D light.Posted 4 years agoPimpmaster JazzMember
I run Crest’s on my 29 HT (Solaris) and have dinged the heck out of them in about 3 months. I originally wanted Arch Ex but couldn’t easily find them in the country and went for crest instead, wish id held out for the Arch Ex tbh.
Same here – mine came with a free flat-spot from the previous owner. :/
I have to admit – I’m not sold with them. I’ve had to rebuild the rear wheel (which was a pig – very easy to over-tension, and don’t get me started on straight-pull spokes), they seem to flex quite a bit and compared to other 26″ UST rims I’ve used (Mavic 819s and Shimano M776 wheels) are a pig to mount tyres on.
Next time I’m buying regular spokes and proper UST rims, excess weight be damned.Posted 4 years agoScienceofficerMember
Irrespective of weight limits of not, a heavier rider is always going to flex component/wheels of any build more than a lighter rider, given the same riding style.
As I alluded to in my post, I found then nice and light, which paradoxically made the bike seem up for more aggro, but sadly they were a bit soft and a bit ‘wangy’, which is why I think I had to true them all the time. I’d certainly not use them in a 29er wheel build for my weight and riding style.Posted 4 years agoButtscratcherMember
it’s now a question of which tubeless tyres to put on them
You can now read all of the horror stories of getting X tyre on Crest rims 😉
Surely you don’t mean tubeless, but tubeless ready.
Personally if it’s racing only, I’d recommend Rocket Ron evos front and rear – paper thin, but very light, and great for racing – on one have them at £15 I think too :).
If it’s for varied riding, I’d recommend Conti’s MK2 front and XK rear. If you want less grip, a Schwalbe NN front and RR rear do the trick in Pacestar compound. If you want a floppy tyre on the rim, Maxxis have tyres too 😉
If you’re after a bargain, and a decent tyre for trail riding, I’d recommend the On one Smorgasboard.Posted 4 years ago
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