Crests – how much of a beating can they take?

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  • Crests – how much of a beating can they take?
  • DanW
    Member

    You’ll be fine with 2.25’s but much bigger would be less than ideal. There was a similar thread a year or so ago

    I found Crests too light for my general tail riding. I ran them on a 456 Ti built up as a single speed trail bike with 120mm Reba’s. At the time I was 13st 10lb to 14st 2lb.

    They were out of shape after the first week of riding, which I put down to the usual new wheel adjustment. I flat spotted on the third week, picked up numerous dings that deformed the bead and I had to true them every 2-3 weeks. After a summer of somewhat excessive maintenance on them, I stopped using them when I moved to a 29er, but I couldn’t see them lasting for more than a year of so really.

    I run tubeless, I run 2.1s, I run crests, I’ve had them 2 years they occasionally need truing but not by much. I weigh 205 lbs. Whats wrong with you lot are you clumsy or what ? 😛

    ianfitz
    Member

    I have a pair of 26er pro3 on crest that I may be looking to sell. Due to mainly (only!) riding 29ers these days.

    Not pristine but true with good bearings.

    (Sorry for the hyjack)

    Ignitor 2.1s are particularly small. And it had a puncture. 😉

    b r
    Member

    Added.

    Run a 2.4 on the front, real nice profile.

    Rear is an Ardent 2.25.

    I thought there was a 90kg weight limit on those wheels however the strength of the wheels really depends on the quality of the build , which from Hope wasn’t as good as I expected but the real issue here is can you put up with the freewheeling noise , it’s a bit of a love it or hate it thing .

    Premier Icon Kryton57
    Subscriber

    Ianfitz pm me with some photos and a price would you?

    Alright with strong tyres. Need attention to spokes fairly often as the flex and work loose. Depends how you ride.

    bullit
    Member

    Im 65kg and Ive run Crest rims on Pro2’s on my full suss for a while now. I generally get on with them but have had trouble when Ive run thinner sidewall tyres tubeless on the rear. I have killed two rear Crest rims with big dings , a crack and an irrepairable flat spot on rocky descents in the Highlands when using tubeless Conti rubber queen (non-UST) and HR (non-UST) on rear. I now only use UST rear tubeless tyres on them , keep an eye on the tyre pressure and they are lasting grand. the rims are cetainly not as hardy and ding resistant (IMO) as Mavic 719 or equivalent though.

    Premier Icon Kryton57
    Subscriber

    Very useful thanks all. I’m 77kg and a wheels-on-the-ground type of rider, the most of a pounding they’ll get would be Afan/CyB, otherwise only stuff you’ll find in Southern forests 🙂

    Should be fine then…

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    You worry far far too much. About everything!

    Olympics/Crests/Alpines will be absolutely fine! Podiums would also be absolutely fine, if a little flexier.

    Still got my DT240/Alpines.

    clubber
    Member

    They were out of shape after the first week of riding, which I put down to the usual new wheel adjustment.

    New wheels (if well built) shouldn’t really need any adjustment.

    however the strength of the wheels really depends on the quality of the build

    true up to a point but a weak rim even well built will still be weak, just less weak than one built badly… From what I’ve heard and seen, crests are fairly robust for most riders but heavy riders will be outside the weight limit and therefore any warranty plus will potentially need more truing over time.

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    true up to a point but a weak rim even well built will still be weak

    But what weak rims are actually out there?

    From what I’ve heard and seen, crests are fairly robust for most riders but heavy riders will be outside the weight limit and therefore any warranty plus will potentially need more truing over time.

    There is no weight limit on Crests, only on Hope’s 24-hole Pro 3 builds which utilise them.

    Premier Icon Kryton57
    Subscriber

    njee – I know 😕

    Hopefully though I’ve secured some crests on Pro2 Evo’s. 8)

    teasel
    Member

    You worry far far too much. About everything!

    Uncanny. It’s almost like you’ve met…

    teasel
    Member

    Going back OTish – what is the Iron Cross rim the 700c version of i.e. Alpine or Crest or something else…?

    Premier Icon adsh
    Subscriber

    I too weigh 77kg and ride down south. I’ve got 2 pairs of Crests and find them pretty tough for what I do. The only issue I had was rim ding from a slow puncture that took a bit of persuasion to bend back and seal.

    Pro 2 Evo with crests, rim tape and valves came in at 1530g with CXrays and brass nipples. Think the same build with DT comps was 1640g. Much as I love the ‘better’ build I can’t tell the difference. I should have spend the money on better hubs (ACs) and used a cheaper spoke like a D light.

    I run Crest’s on my 29 HT (Solaris) and have dinged the heck out of them in about 3 months. I originally wanted Arch Ex but couldn’t easily find them in the country and went for crest instead, wish id held out for the Arch Ex tbh.

    Same here – mine came with a free flat-spot from the previous owner. :/

    I have to admit – I’m not sold with them. I’ve had to rebuild the rear wheel (which was a pig – very easy to over-tension, and don’t get me started on straight-pull spokes), they seem to flex quite a bit and compared to other 26″ UST rims I’ve used (Mavic 819s and Shimano M776 wheels) are a pig to mount tyres on.

    Next time I’m buying regular spokes and proper UST rims, excess weight be damned.

    Width is not really a problem ime. I’ve had 2.35 Dampfs tubeless at low ish pressures on crests and never felt they might roll off. But damfs are a bit of a magic tyre.

    But they flex and need regular tuning up , that’s all

    Premier Icon kelvin
    Subscriber

    Crests? Useless as a rear rim, but okay on the front. Arch EX for the rear would be wise.

    Irrespective of weight limits of not, a heavier rider is always going to flex component/wheels of any build more than a lighter rider, given the same riding style.

    As I alluded to in my post, I found then nice and light, which paradoxically made the bike seem up for more aggro, but sadly they were a bit soft and a bit ‘wangy’, which is why I think I had to true them all the time. I’d certainly not use them in a 29er wheel build for my weight and riding style.

    Premier Icon Kryton57
    Subscriber

    Well, they’ve arrived. Pro2 Evo’s on Crests 32 spokes – 1543g on the kitchen scales with Stan’s yellow tape.

    I’m pleased :).

    Seeing as they is the racing wheels, it’s now a question of which tubeless tyres to put on them.

    it’s now a question of which tubeless tyres to put on them

    You can now read all of the horror stories of getting X tyre on Crest rims 😉

    Surely you don’t mean tubeless, but tubeless ready.

    Personally if it’s racing only, I’d recommend Rocket Ron evos front and rear – paper thin, but very light, and great for racing – on one have them at £15 I think too :).

    If it’s for varied riding, I’d recommend Conti’s MK2 front and XK rear. If you want less grip, a Schwalbe NN front and RR rear do the trick in Pacestar compound. If you want a floppy tyre on the rim, Maxxis have tyres too 😉

    If you’re after a bargain, and a decent tyre for trail riding, I’d recommend the On one Smorgasboard.

    b r
    Member

    Seeing as they is the racing wheels, it’s now a question of which tubeless tyres to put on them.

    tbh You can pretty much tubeless-up any tyre. I’ve current got on my two sets; single-ply Minion, On-One Chunky Monkey, Ardent and Team XR4 – all tubeless using yellow tape.

Viewing 25 posts - 41 through 65 (of 65 total)

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