I’ve just done a mini service on my cranks, to be precise I’ve changed the alloy crank bolt to a steel one. These are SRAM X1 carbon DUB cranks. I’ve done this as a ‘downgrade’ to remove the alloy/alloy interface between the bolt and spindle.
After I’d done it, it got me thinking, which configuration of crank/BB would be the one to go for all things being equal?
I’ve always had a soft spot for raceface alloy cranks (Turbine/atlas) but not their bearing related products. The bike I believe is PF30 compatible in whatever combination of spindle length etc it takes.
I guess then, the question is, which crank/bb combo is the best for the application?

The Shimano 24mm axle and the HT2 pinch bolt seems hard to look past, seem to be far fewer problems for a microscopic loss of stiffness. I don’t know if you can get an adapter to allow one in a PF30 BB, it might end up being the worst of both worlds.

Raceface use that tighten-til-it-hurts + silly little spacer/lockring thing system, just like DUB. I can only see Shimano as the decent option. But then someone always says they have trouble with Shimano too. Dunno how, I never have.

The only downside to Raceface alloy cranks is the plastic bearing preload collar, but you can fit a alloy cane creak one to solve that.

Now shimano are direct mount, I cant see why you would want anything else….

Raceface Aefect have a better price to weidgt ratio than Shimano these days and been faultless for nearly 3 years now

Just to add, I’ve also had previous success with XTRM970 cranks and some SLX on another bike so not adverse to looking at Shimano. I’d have some more M970s but I doubt they would fit now given its a boost frame.
At the moment the SRAM cranks are fine and BB also seems fine so not currently looking at changing when things are working, but thinking at some point I will maybe think a change could be better.

In terms of axle size and BB bearings, 30mm, 29mm, 24mm. What would people choose here for best results?

I have Hope EVO as I had birthday money burning a hole in my pocket. They are beautifully machined, and nice to look at, but offer nothing over Shimano XTs I’ve had over the last 10 or so years. New version with direct mount ring would be top of my list (stock pending).

+1 foe the Hope cranks. Bit of a pig to set up first time, but I particularly like how i can change the spindle when fitting them to another bike. The crank arm coating holds up to wear & tear very well

Have have rides ruined by a Raceface pre-load failure and seen plenty of ruined rides with Shimano pre-loaders

I liked the DUB solution, but found limited BB options

Still have a GXP X01 crank on my enduro bike, but its looking very tatty and will be replaced sooner rather than later

alanf
Free Member

Just to add, I’ve also had previous success with XTRM970 cranks and some SLX on another bike so not adverse to looking at Shimano. I’d have some more M970s but I doubt they would fit now given its a boost frame.

I have M970s in a boost frame, it works fine in that particular case- not much chainring clearance on the inside position and the chainline is a bit off towards the low end of the cassette, but I could switch the ring to the outsider if that were an issue (as it is, it all shifts fine and tbh since you spent way more time in the lower gears and they get a harder time of it, that chainline probably makes about as much sense as “perfect” does)

For the overall question… 24mm works really well. It’s compact so you can have more bearing for the same package, which is the only real way to get longevity, and the downsides of a smaller axle are small. (30mm has some advantages too but you only really see it much at the top end and even then they’re not massive)

Dub is exactly what I expected when you let the manufacturers of the worst BBs invent a BB standard tbh.

The advantage with the Hope cranks is they’re shorter in actual length than most of the competition’s similar length cranks so fewer rock strikes . (If that makes sense)

On that point… Do raceface still do that bullshit where the different “length” cranks just have the holes drilled further up the arm? My aeffects are like that, not impressed. I mean, you still get better pedal clearance which is most important but still

I’ve just done a mini service on my cranks, to be precise I’ve changed the alloy crank bolt to a steel one. These are SRAM X1 carbon DUB cranks. I’ve done this as a ‘downgrade’ to remove the alloy/alloy interface between the bolt and spindle.

I’ve a set of the same cranks waiting to go on, sounds like a logical thing to do, where’d you get the new bolt from?

The Shimano 24mm axle and the HT2 pinch bolt seems hard to look past

This would seem OK, and I’ve been planning to do this when the current Truativ Eagle on a DUB external wears out, but it’s yet to do that after 3 years..still spins freely. Impressed so far.

On that point… Do raceface still do that bullshit where the different “length” cranks just have the holes drilled further up the arm? My aeffects are like that, not impressed. I mean, you still get better pedal clearance which is most important but still

My 165mm Atlas cranks are drilled right at the ends.

@oikeith – SJS cycles I believe, have a look for DUB steel crank bolt.
I saw an article about it and why it was a good idea to ‘downgrade’.
It also gets rid of the cover with the pin holes rather than a hex removal method