Cranks for single speeding on road

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  • Cranks for single speeding on road
  • richcc

    Currently running 175mm on medium Roadrat 44/17 – 700c wheels. I’m about 5’10”. Looking at new cranks but majority of single ring cranks seem to be either 165mm or 170mm. Is the received wisdom that these are most suited for riding fixed/ss? Am I likely to notice a difference if I go to 170s or even 165s?

    Any recommendations for cranks?


    oh yes.165 are proper spinny.try some cheap ones.I’m a touch taller than you and use 170s,175 on the mtb,tried 172.5 on the road,cadence suffered.
    not much torque with 165s,so best for flattish roads.
    I use 44-16-find 170s a good balance.was running 42-16 with 165s.
    or get some of those (stronglight?)cranks that have the swappable pedal thread to get 170-2.5-5.

    Premier Icon simon1975

    6’1″ here with 170mm cranks 48:18 on commuter. 175’s now feel horrible in comparison (on the MTB) so I’m considering changing them to 170’s too.

    Try this:


    Fixies typically have shorter cranks for more clearance (since you obviously can’t stop pedalling when cornering!) and because shorter cranks should help spinning. If you don’t have issues with either of those, I wouldn’t bother swapping for the sake of it.


    Cheers for that Simon. Leaves me looking at 165mm cranks for 31″ inside leg. 10mm less than current


    Shorter for fixies, longer for SS.

    I wouldn’t bother swapping for the sake of it.



    what they ^ said, use same crank length on bikes ss or geared and not noticed a significant difference esp if you’re out the saddle a lot


    Same dimensions as you. 170 on my Kona, 165 on my track bike. Both fixed. 175 on my Kona Unit 29er SS. You will notice 175 to 165, but if you have the clearance, I wouldn’t change for the sake of it just for SS. If you are going fixed, I’d go with 165 unless you have a high bottom bracket. I have not found toe overlap to be an issue on either bike, but it may be with 175 and your frame.

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