- Cotic BFe build advice
I’d put Flow rims on the Hope hubs, run them tubeless at ~28psi with big Bontrager or Specialized tyres (XR4, Purgatory, etc). Will roll pretty fast, grip well and make more difference to comfort than everything else. Stiff short stem (50-60mm) and wide (700mm+) bars. I ride a Soul that’s built more like a BFe – geometry with 140mm forks well for everything. Revs or recent Marzocchis seem good, I have 2010 Floats which are nice but they’re stupid expensive new.Posted 5 years agoGarry_LagerSubscriber
I got the sumo for mine on the basis of Cotic man’s recommendation and it was not fit for purpose – the clamp slips. From threads on here, though, others have used them with no problem.
I have a set of U-turn lyrics on mine which are great for the adjustable travel and just very good in general. Heavy though – find it hard work to ride my BFe on longer xc rides if there’s a lot of climbing. Coming from a road background this probably won’t be a problem for you.Posted 5 years agoRockapeMember
Built mine back end of last year:-Posted 5 years ago
Flows on Hope pro2’s ardent tubless tyres.
Slx double and bash crank (deore double bash a cheaper alternative)
Slx shifters front and rear mechs
Deore brakes at mo but planning upgrade
Easton seat post
Pike forks coil
50mm stem nukeproof 760 mm bars
Just getting really into it but love it fab bike. Done 30 miles lakes ride on mine and enjoyed every minute. Build it and enjoy.
Just ordered a Cotic BFe, this is new territory for me coming from an XC/road background so I might need some help with the build. Cotic should be fitting the bb and headset so thats sorted. I want this bike to be as comfy going on the climbs and the level as it can be, as well as being huge bags of fun on the descent however, I ride down hills with the grace and finesse of a hamfisted baboon so the bike will be more capable than the rider – though when has that ever stopped anyone?
At the moment, I’m planning to fit EN321/521 on Hope Pro2 hubs and a mixture of SLX and Deore transmission to keep the price down.
Have no idea about forks, seatpost or cockpit. Cotic recommend the USE Sumo post but i dont know anything about it, has some good reviews online but might it be a bit harsh?. I was looking at the Easton EA50 stuff for the front unless there are horror stories or anything better for a similar price.
Forks – I have literally no idea, happy to go second hand as I am close to a good service centre who can rebuild them if and when required… any recommendations?
If its any help, its a medium size frame, I’m 5’11” and weigh 80kgs.Posted 5 years agobatman11Member
Yep as most of the guys above had said short stem anything between 60/80mm, 700 plus bars will make it more fun and controled for the downhills. I run a dropper post on mine at the minute, but also had a sdg ibeam carbon post and matching bel air saddle combo worked well for me comfy as, wheels wise i would opp’t for the 521 rim very strong weight to stenght for a hardtail spot on wheel build comboand i have quit a few riding buddys who have the same set up and love it . Forks wise i run a fox talas 150/120 but as someone mentioned not the cheepest but do try to get a travel ajustable one if budget allows it does ride well at 120 and just pop/wind it up for the downhills.Posted 5 years ago
Other than that enjoy, for me it’s the one frame i’d keep till it dies or i do lol, just a great all round fun frame to ride love it.
Mine arrives Friday, build very similar to above with a bias to stronger bits, Hope/Stan wheels, double and bash etc. Forks I went for Rockshox dual position 150/120 but I would say the choice is bewildering in some respects you just have to close your eyes and just make a choice. Some online sellers like CRC have some big discounts on old stock forks.Posted 5 years agocolournoiseSubscriber
Finished my BFe build a couple of weeks ago.
Cotic BFe (XS, Gritstone)
Marzocchi 44LR (150/130mm, 9mm QR)
Azonic Outlaw wheelset
Michelin Wildgrip’r 2.35 front
Michelin Wildrace’r 2.1 rear
Raceface Ride AM cranks
Hope stainless BB
Blackspire 34T chainring & Raceface bash
Superstar Plasma chain device
Superstar Nano Tech pedals
SRAM PG950 11-34 cassette
SRAM X9 rear mech (short cage)
SRAM X9 twist shifter
Avid BB7 discs (185mm back and front) with Shimano XT cables
Avid speed dial 7 levers
FSA Orbit sealed headset
Pro FSR 70mm stem (flipped)
Ragley Wiser 710mm bars
ODI Ruffian lock on grips
Gusset clench seat clamp
Forca Vario dropper seatpost
Nukeproof Plasma Core saddle
Comes up at just on 30lb (but my wheels are pretty heavy). Still climbs OK though, even at that weight and with the forks set at 150mm.
Pretty happy with it so far. Possible future changes are lighter wheels/tyres and a switch to 20mm axle forks (although now I have one of the DT Swiss ratchet QRs on the front the 44s don’t feel noticeably flexier than my old 20mm bolt-through Society Xenos).
slainte 😀 robPosted 5 years agoRockapeMember
As jambalaya Says if budget allows get a travel adjustable fork. Run mine around 120/130mm for the most xc stuff but adjust to 140 once you start to tip it in downwards. Also 60+ stem especially if you do alot of xc type stuff if you have the budget buy cheap secondhand so you can play with set up till you find your perfect feel. Also 700+ bars I had 660mm on mine when I first built because that’s what I had lying around but now I am running 760mm. I found when I started looking to build mine alot said you would get a harsh ride. But I can say I’ve never had an issue with this I did find it a little difficult at first to get on with because my old hardtail was a totally diffrent geometry style. The more I ride it the more I enjoy it and the difference it’s made having better weather and lighter nights just gives you that bigger buzz. Especially as we have rode all through winter the mud the rain the ice and snow. But me and the BFe have had fun all the way.Posted 5 years ago
many thanks for the replies and advice, have not ridden tubeless yet so a little apprehensive about that but if they are a good balance between comfort and performance i’ll investigate further. I’ve always ridden clinchers on the road because i know its just a case of replacing the tube rather than faff around with sealant or tape.Posted 5 years agochiefgrooveguruMember
With the right rim/tyre pairing, tubeless is painless and the benefits are great – quicker rolling, more grip, more comfort, no pinch flats, no punctures short of big cuts which the sealant can’t handle. Hence the Flow + Bontrager TLR / Specialized 2bliss recommendation. With the wrong rim/tyre pairing, it’s one of the most frustrating things on the planet.Posted 5 years agoLenBuchMember
Tubeless defo – as said earlier I had the USE Sumo and found it awful – coupled with a Fizik Gobi the post was hard to adjust, the rails kept slipping and on bumppy terrain would tilt no matter how hard the bolts were done up – eventually went for Thompson post which is not as comfy but bomb proof and easy to adjust.Posted 5 years agoRoblillyMember
I have tried mine in a few different builds but have settled on a Sektor solo air at 140 and a reverb. Running 34/22 with 9 speed out back. Minions at both ends too (heavy but punture resistant)
I was running fox 36 van at 160mm which was really stable on the downs but wouldn’t turn in singletrack, even getting as much weight as possble on the front wheel with renthal bars and 60mm stem I washed out the front too often.
I have used a Thompson seatpost before the reverb as more comfort comes from the tyre pressures than seatpost or saddle (IMO)
Have fun (the faster you ride it, the better they feel!)Posted 5 years ago
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