Just wondering if anyone on here would have a ball park idea on partly bricking up a window.
We’re reducing a window by half as part of a bathroom fit out – so knitting in/toothing in the bricks etc.
It’s trickier as it’s first floor and below is a sloping ground floor extension, but cost I’ve had back is going to take it to something like £1200 including scaffolding, plus the cost of the new window on top. Seems way more than I expected.
Anyone any thoughts?

Is it being rendered over? Or can you see the work afterwards? How many days effort? Sounds like a couple of days to me plus scaff so unless you’ve got them in for other stuff it doesn’t seem bonkers. Presumably they’ve been out to quote etc.

Cheers.
Not being rendered over, so will see it on the outside – hence the toothing in etc, rather than just blocking up.
Yes, they’ve been out to see it and to be fair its kind of around the ball park someone else mentioned, but once you’re into VAT etc it’s getting pretty pricy.

Just do it as a part blind window. Then they can use wall starters.

How essential is it? In that situation I’d go back look at the bathroom fit out and see if there is an option to keep the window as is.

Had similar done. £850 inc window.

Yours more difficult as sloping but obv depends how sloping. Mine side window with hardstanding, easy access from the road.

Simple scaffold to build, come in basically a kit form for all the basic designs iirc. Have to get the books out to check.

Bricks were quick, a proper bricklayer will be fast & good.

part blind window? Not sure what that means, but assume the wall starters means just bricking it up and not toothing in? Probably a lot easier, but doesn’t it just end up looking, well, a bit like a bricked in window? End of the day we’re not going to see the outside of the house that often and either way it’s going to stand out.

As for changing bathroom fit out – closing up window is only way of doing what we want as where a shower enclosure fixing would go is bang in the middle of window, so it’s either walk in shower and wet floor or sticking with a bath.
Starting to regret the whole thing…

Put your curtains on the outside…

Unless you can get EXACTLY the same bricks that have similar aging is it not going to be obvious anyway? Are there other windows that should align but now won’t? I notice wrong windows quite often but maybe thqts just me.

Just half fill it an put something over it*

*Not curtains

You’ll never match the original masonry and mortar so it won’t look very good. Blind Windows have been used since the 17th century.

I’m assuming a part blind window is one with a solid panel in the lower part, instead of glass. I’d do that, and add insulation/plasterboard on the inside until the solid area is flush with the wall. If you’re careful, I think that could all be done from the inside, so no scaffold.

Unless you can get EXACTLY the same bricks that have similar aging is it not going to be obvious anyway?

You’ll never match the original masonry and mortar so it won’t look very good.

I don’t agree – we replaced one window with one approx 1/3rd bigger so had to knit in new bricks + soldier line and we also added a matched brickwork bay window (to replace a picture bay + extended the roof line slightly). On both sites yes you can see the new work but it certainly doesn’t look bad as they match pretty closely and in the two years they have been in they are starting to weather in and become almost un-noticeable now.

It’s reducing size vertically rather than horizontally.
Did think about just what could be done other than brick, but the internal face is going to be supporting a pretty heavy glass shower screen, so want that going through plaster and into brick, rather than plasterboard.

With a part blind window, you’d probably have space for a skin of brick on the inside. My thinking is that the scaffold will be significant proportion of the cost so if you can avoid that you’ll reduce the price a lot.

Alternatively just get a new window. Have a blank insulated panel on one side and a glazed (opening) one on the other. The blank panel can be gloss black ppc externally so it looks like glazing and insulated and be sufficiently strong to hold up some shelves.
About 12 years ago I did some waiting rooms on an Underground station using W40 sections with ppc infill panels with CP board cores.