- Commuters – Mudguard advice
I’m going to start commuting in the near future, 14 miles on canal paths and roads. I’m wanting to add mudguards, preferably full length, but my Whyte Saxon cross only has fixing holes at the dropouts, it has no bridge to fix a common mudguard bracket to it. Plus there is not much clearance to get a full length mudguard on the rear due to the bend in the seat stay above the wheel.
What are my options, should I buy SKS Raceblade Pro XL’s and accept some water on my feet and lower parts of the bike?Posted 8 months ago
Is it worth having mudguards on rough canals paths, as it may cause rubbing and noise? What do the STW canal commuters use?BezSubscriber
You can usually make use of mudguard/light brackets to get round the absence of a seatstay bridge, eg as used on this Longitude:
I’m not familiar with the Whyte but a quick image google suggests there’s enough clearance behind the seat tube, depending on what tyre’s you’re using of course, but I don’t know what the chainstay region looks like. But again reflector brackets can be used: I’ve got one on one of my Crossrips to give more clearance than is available when mounted at the chainstay bridge.
As for rattling/rubbing, IME the rear is fine, especially if you don’t add a flap or a light to the guard (and remove any heavy rubber flaps if you’re using it on rough terrain). The front tends to be more the issue: if it’s long enough to give half decent coverage for your feet (which usually also necessitates a flap) then it can slap about a bit on rough stuff. Normally just a slight annoyance rather than a problem, though it can be when you take one hand off the bars. Up to you whether you want to do without a flap or even cut the guard shorter to make it more stable.
IME metal guards are a lot stiffer than plastic ones, so consider things like PDWs, though they’re quite spendy. But I’ve used full plastic guards off-road plenty and they’re ok.
Certainly I’d prefer to put up with the downsides of having guards than the downsides of not having them. And FWIW all the half-hearted guards (clip-ons etc) that I’ve tried have been rubbish, I’d stick with proper ones.Posted 8 months agonbtMember
I use mudguards for all my commutes – I vary my routes but canals and muddy lanes feature heavily. I’ve 35mm tyres on the CX so I run 45mm mudguards – they’re shaped to allow for the chainstay bending near the drivetrain. SKS bleumels are my guard of choice
as for the bridge – hmm. worth asking whyte directly perhaps, to see what they recommendPosted 8 months agoTiRedMember
Sks is standard answer and I have longboards on one bike. And p35s on another. I run many many types including carbon fibre. They need a rear stay bridge or they rattle and will then snap.
In this case you need curano mudguards. Not cheap but no rear stay required.Posted 8 months agonbtMember
might something like this work?Posted 8 months ago
Whyte do a set of mudguards specifically with the bridges to suit the bikes like yours.
I have a Glencoe with the Whyte mudguards fitted with the bridge pieces.
Contact your local dealer and get them to order them in specifically.
i have the Satin black ones, really tidy and not rattly.Posted 8 months agophiljuniorMember
Should you find your chosen mudguards move about a bit, well placed helitape should stop any paint removal/wearing away of material from the frame and forks.
Whilst I’m lazy and haven’t got round to replenishing my stocks, it does last better than the alternative (insulating tape).Posted 8 months agoalexnharveyMember
I wonder if you would really see much rub even without the seatstay fixture. If you are able to use double stays at the rear and the guard is fixed at the chain stay bb it should be fairly secure. If not, one or two p-clips or a adapted light bracket should allow you to securely fix it. If you are going to use a pannier rack you can also use various bought or bodged fixtures to support the mudguard from the rack rather than the frame.
I prefer the black plastic tortec guards to SKS.Posted 8 months ago
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