I’ve had my Code Rs for a month now and hate the excess lever travel. I disliked my old Guides for the same reason so went V4 instead.

The only solution I’ve found for the SRAMs is to advance the pistons after bleeding but it’s not an exact science.

Code RSC levers simply aren’t cost effective IMHO.

Have I just wasted my money (despite the pretty cool name)?

Edit to add: my problem (aside from the slack) is that the throw ends up too close to the bar for my liking. I suspect these won’t solve that issue…?

Let us know how you get on !

like it. book marked for future.

I can’t work out how it works… saying that I have rsc and don’t like the amount of lever through. Suspect they need a complete reset, drain and bleed.

Just spacers that limit return travel from what I see?

^Yep. They look pretty pointless. The levers will still suck because they don’t have the mechanical advantage from the swing-link that the RS and RSC levers have. Which is more important than the dead spot remover dial.

That’s kinda my thought. So they take up the slack but have no effect on actual throw?

Ah well. They’re on their way so I’ll update this thread as and when 👍

Depending on the spacing, they might remove some of the ‘dead spot’ that the RSC adjuster addresses (where the master cylinder is pushing fluid but hasn’t yet blocked off the reservoir port) which will help feel but not really performance as such. Looks like it’s mainly blocking the spring loaded crash protection mechanism from working though!

Looks like it’s mainly blocking the spring loaded crash protection mechanism from working though

Ah…there’s something I didn’t consider!

At least they are cheap though, so not much to lose by giving it a try. Most of my bikes have the RSC levers, but my ebike has code r’s. Can’t say I’ve ever noticed an issue but will prob keep an eye on this!

Looks like it’s mainly blocking the spring loaded crash protection mechanism from working though

Err … What is this ? How does it work ??

Looks like it’s mainly blocking the spring loaded crash protection mechanism from working though

Err … What is this ? How does it work ??

The lever sits in it’s ‘natural’ position but you can also push it away from you as well as pull the lever towards the bar. The video in the link above showed the guy pushing as well as pulling which made the lever appear to have way more throw than it actually did.

So how did it work out? I like the idea of removing some lever slack and the spring loaded crash protection doesn’t see too vital (or to offer much crash protection)
Thx

Couldn’t you do it in a far neater way by adding a spacer between the circlip/washer and the piston? That’s if there’s any distance between the piston seals and the reservoir port. If there’s not then all this is going to do is turn them into a closed system brake?