climbingtrackworld – advice on new shoes
In Europe the Fontainebleau grading is the most widely used. The numerical system ranges from 1a to 8c+ (the equivalent of V16 or B16), but problems easier than 2b are rarely found. The adjectival system goes from F- (Facile Inf, easy inferior) to ED+ (Extrêmement Difficile Sup, Extremely Difficult Higher). The system was first devised to classify the sandstone climbing in the Fontainebleau area, but is now widely used also in other bouldering areas around the world.
The grades in this system are similar to the French route grades, but have different meaning. An 8a route is significantly easier than an 8a boulder problem. To reduce confusion, some people write the bouldering grades in upper-case letters (e.g. “8B+” vs. “8b+”).
So to avoid confusion I’ll write:
A Fontainebleau 6B is about the same difficulty as a 6b Stanage Plantation boulder.Posted 4 years ago
Useful Glupton, but it fails to mention the fact that the Fontainebleau boulders themselves are graded “bloc” and someone who climbs French 6a easily will often fail to get off the ground on a 5a (or should that be 5A) Fontainebleau boulder.
The Spanish make interesting use of French grades too especially in Catalonia. Don’t be surprised if you grind to a halt on something well within your grade.Posted 4 years agomartinhutchSubscriber
Edukator – even on grit, you can’t generalise too much about the nature of a route just from the grading. Your example, Old Friends, is fair enough at E4 5c because it is bold low down with shit RPs etc, but there is a cam before the 5c crux. Just around from that is No More Excuses E4 6b, which has a handplaced peg after the 6b crux and is generally done as a highball boulder problem with mats, and is certainly not a safe as houses lead.
On longer routes, E4 6b can mean a safe as houses English 6b crux pitch accompanied by a terrifying poorly protected English 6a pitch.Posted 4 years agoianvMember
I’m sorry, I don’t understand the question, unless it’s a rhetorical question, and even then I still don’t understand what you’re getting at.
OK, so if a boulder problem in the UK is given a Font grade then of course there is going to be a similarity. If this is what you meant then i dont know why you bothered as its obvious. However, if you are saying that a UK technical grade (for the hardest move) is likely to give a broadly similar level of difficulty to a problem with the same Font grade you are wrong. 8a moves are are rare or non existent yet there are loads of problems given higher Font grades, the Font 7c/8as that I have done probably never had moves harder than 7a.Posted 4 years agomikewsmithSubscriber
Flying Buttress Direct on Stanage which used to be HVS, 5b, and is now given E1.
Can never see why, lots of protection which has got better over the years – Classic HVS 🙂 (from the done it and it wasn’t that hard camp)
even on grit, you can’t generalise too much about the nature of a route just from the grading.
This +E4 🙂Posted 4 years ago
Each route on it’s merits and it’s modern regrade.
However, if you are saying that a UK technical grade (for the hardest move) is likely to give a broadly similar level of difficulty to a problem with the same Font grade you are wrong
I’m convinced (and I’m not alone) that many font 6a’s in font are roughly british 6a regardless of what the comparison tables say. Obviously as you go up the grades it drifts away from parity.Posted 4 years ago
And to complicate matters I could tell you about a few E45c’s that are well protected.
Go on then, on grit of course so the length isn’t the factor. Old friends was given E4, 5c before Friends when there was a rock on a sling below what you call the crux move though for me it was a relief to get to dry rock with big holds. IMO a lot of routes could have been downgraded when Friends appeared.Posted 4 years ago
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