Hey folks,

I have a pair of Boreal Jokers which recommended on here, very comfy and previously a pretty decent amount of grip.
Recently I’ve found the grip level dropping and my feet have been slipping off which can get a bit freaky if you’re on a balancy bouldering problem

What’s my best course of action to revitalise them? They’re only for months old and have only been used indoors (so far)

Not sure if you’ve tried this, and sounds gross, but I spit on mine, and rub it right in…Makes the rubber more sticky.

i’ve seen someone do that and i was wondering why…

i’ll give it a shot

Maybe you have got stronger and you are pulling your self up so much your feet aren’t sticking any more.

Wash the soles with some fairy liquid and warm water..the rubber pores get clogged with chalk and cack, particularly on indoor walls. Towel dry and rub your thumb on it to check the squeak. Spit and a bar towel is the rough and ready version.

5.10 do a stealth rubber paint

http://www.theleedswallshop.co.uk/510-five-ten-stealth-rubber-glue-kit-511-p.asp

find their stealth sole good on my freeriders 🙂

Maybe you have got stronger and you are pulling your self up so much your feet aren’t sticking any more.

I actually went the other way and have learned how to use my feet more when climbing so the slippy feet is really disconcerting!
I am a lot stronger than before though… thanks climbing 🙂

I’ll give them a clean when i get home tonight and see how it goes, i don’t want to be having to go down the stealth rubber route when they’re still pretty new and previously gave me a good level of grip

Rub em together to warm them up before trying harder problems. They’ve probably ‘lost grip’ as the ambient has gone down in the last few weeks…

It’s more likely to be the hold than your shoe. Give that a brush, or just pay more attention to your feet on the move in question.

(Provided you’ve given the soles a quick squeak before pulling on, of course.)

It’s more likely to be the hold than your shoe. Give that a brush, or just pay more attention to your feet on the move in question.

Ok i’ll give every single hold and wall (for smears) on the problem a brush before i start it. I’ll jump right on that

As i indicated above (obviously not clearly enough) I do pay a lot of attention to foot placement, so that’s why I’m asking about how to look after my shoes and get that grip back

The sticky rubber will have got coated/impregnated with chalk, give them a scrub and they should return to before. Spit works as well.

As does a squirt of medical alcohol and a naked flame…..

Ok i’ll give every single hold and wall (for smears) on the problem a brush before i start it. I’ll jump right on that

You’re climbing indoors, right? It’s probably busy at the mo? And the holds are getting dirty and greasy? So if you’re slipping off a particular hold, yes, you may need to give it a quick brush.

I’m not suggesting you don’t have good footwork. If the holds are greasy you often have to pay way more attention than you’d expect to a particular move. I get caught out by this ALL the time.

How old are your shoes? Has the edge gone? You say your footwork is good are you climbing higher graded routes which require you to get your toe on more aggressively? You’ll prob find it’s not the shoes (although a bit of spit won’t hurt) but the fact you’re attempting higher grades and your footwork isn’t actually there for those grades hence slipping off. Are you finding the issues on all routes or just v3/4/5 and above?

And Brown + 1, depending on how often your routes are set you will find that holds become incredibly polished hence the need for a brush. My local wall is busy and come the end of the month some of the crimps and smaller footholds are lethal due to the chalk and worn rubber.

Have you tried getting bitten by a spider?

(sorry I have nothing constructive to add to the forum today)

if you decide you need new ones dont waste yer cash on new shoes if you like the ones you have, get them resoled at llanberis resoles. If youre a newbie climber then chances are the edges have gone so a resole would help. I went through the edges on my first shoes in 6 months as I learnt.

I’m finding the issue on all routes and not a particular hold.
Shoes aren’t old (see above)
I climb at three different walls (rokt, hudds wall, leeds wall) and do give them a quick brush if required because of how busy it is recently

Hang on a bit,..i’ve got the answer somewhere…

What grade do you climb at?

The spit technique really does work.

Fond memories of summer evenings at Dumbarton Rock (where the basalt has all the friction of tiles after an oil spill…)

The other possible explanation is that they’ve just reset the circuit of problems you’ve been trying. Holds fresh out of the dishwasher have a soapy texture that takes a few days of use to disappear.

But normally, a bit of spit and polish can improve things no end.

V5/V6 bouldering
6A-ish top-roping (mainly bouldering at the moment though)

looking to get into lead-climbing at some point when my mate gets chance to teach us all properly

Brillo/scotch pad?

Used to work a treat to roughen up HP inkjet printer rollers when they wouldn’t pick up paper, similar principal 🙂

Blimey V5/6 is a good level have you been climbing a long time, I climb at a v4 / 5 depending on where I go, you must climb pretty regularly. IMHO if you’re at that level I would be looking at a more aggressive shoe as a lot of routes require better edging / getting your toe on / smearing etc and the boreal jokers really are an entry level shoe, maybe keep them for routes and treat yourself to an early Xmas pressie 🙂

Listen to the Master…. (if that reference means anything to anyone…)

…come on arms do your stuff….

Anyway. Squeak test them after cleaning with meths*. You’ve not been reading your copy of ‘Fawcwett on Rock’ have you…

*might be bad for modern rubber as this advice is 80’s disclaimer

@stevepitch – It depends on the problem as to how successful i am at the v5/6’s! Ones requiring lots of hanging around off my arms don’t suit me as i’m 14.5st (not one of those shirtless posers!)
Loving the climbing though and have been going at least once per week since march. My GF and friends are well into it as well and are always at least one grade higher than me at anytime!
There is a shout for more aggressive shoes, but some of the stuff i’ve seen being done by folks wearing jokers indoors leads me to believe the shoes ain’t holding me back!

I knew a guy who could solo E4s in deck shoes. Doesn’t mean that I felt ashamed to put on rock shoes to try similar routes.

You might be surprised how much more weight you could get off your arms on steeper ground with a more aggressive shoe. V5/6 is a reasonably decent level.

Shoes won’t necessarily hold you back but it’s always handy to have an advantage 😉 me personally when I changed from jokers I was amazed at actually how bad my foot work was where I previously thought it was ok, with a more aggressive shoe I could get my toe on and actually feel a lot more and realised I wasn’t as accurate with my feet as I could have been.

Best people to ask really would be your missus and mates as they see you climb we can only speculate (and make jibes as above) about how best to help. I personally think it’s not your shoes but technique and the fact you’re climbing at a fair grade which requires better application of foot placement however as you said, your finding the issue on all routes so it’s hard to assess. Yeah cleaning your shoes is all very well and good but I climb 2 / 3 times a week now I never clean my shoes and I’m starting to get holes in the toes and the edge is wearing just means I have to press harder and ensure my toes in a good place. You could resole your shoes but general consensus is it’s a bit pap so the last avenue is new shoes, considering the cost of mtb kit £80 on a pair of climbing shoes is nothing so why not treat yourself.

All in my opinion of course

V5/V6 bouldering

You could probably benefit from some decent shoes at that grade, Jokers are comfy beginner shoes. The fact that others are getting up the problems in them might be because they have a better Power/Weight ratio rather than because the boots are fine.

You should also try going to City Bloc and the Depot (both Leeds) as the bouldering is way better than any of your usual walls. I thought Rokt was awful, possibly the worst wall I have ever been to.

I can vouch for the excellence of the Depot…as can my poor elbow at the moment.

+1 for what people are saying.

A new pair of shoes that are more aggressive might be a nice treat but they arent the answer to getting the next grade. Really good climbers seem able to climb in any shoes, but every little helps. I love my Dragons having started in Anasazis and they are more aggressive and I think are helping me with my footwork, I can be much more precise. Of course it could all be in my head but climbing is a lot about whats in your head 🙂

There was a brilliant thread on ukc about what grade shoes make a difference http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=563443 Some good advice and lots of faux internet anger. I’d give the shoes a clean, wear the old one’s out and then look at something closer fitting 🙂

@stever – that thread is brilliant, just like STW but bitching about climbing shoes and grades

I’m gonna take your advice on cleaning and giving them another crack. I will also look for something a bit more aggressive when i can afford it and then keep the jokers for next year when i plan to get outside

thank you all for the advice 🙂