Climbing Shoes Help Needed

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  • Climbing Shoes Help Needed
  • I have been bouldering for around a year now and have been using a pair of red chilli climbing shoes (rather old version). they have completly worn out and are no longer performing.

    So i have looked at the new red chilli matadores and a few of the La sportiva shoes but am not sure at what i should be looking for?

    im looking for something resonably comfertable as well as performing ok for bouldering competions and so on.

    So any body have any views or suggestions?

    Depends totally on YOUR feet. What would be comfortable for me, could be awfull for you.
    Go to your local shop or climbing wall and ask advice and try some on.

    tazzymtb
    Member

    what are you mainly bouldering on? for grit five ten are still the benchmark although evolv and montrail are making some top friccy boots as well. red chilli and sportivas tend to be a bit harder on the soles so don't smear quite as well but can be better if you are more indoor/limstone based.

    The best bet is to find something that fits just right for you. There is no point having uber tech boots if the hurt like F**kers.

    have a look at some on here

    http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=168&oscsid=eb5b589a53f3557739590420711b6360

    Premier Icon jimmy
    Subscriber

    Usually omfort comes first, although for bouldering in short stints you can afford to go for a more technical – ie less comfy – shoe.

    I have 5:10 Anasazi velcros for more technical stuff and they're still comfy. But I bought 5:10 Xrays on cheap for indoor stuff as they wear down too quick and the anasazis are too expensive to wreck. The X-rays are just a stripped down version of any other shoe so not mega comfy but performance-wise, couldn't tell them apart really. But then, I don't climb THAT hard.

    Im climbing mostly indoor man made at the moment, some fantastic advice here thanks, any body got any links to website selling shoes at a good price? cheers

    Premier Icon mattstreet
    Subscriber

    As said above, you really need to try them on. I have climbing buddies that swear by 5:10s, but my feet are too narrow for them and I get on with Boreal's nicely. I did like a pair of Montrails I had, but they were fully synthetic and didn't half get stinky 😯

    If you know what you're after, websites worth a look are needlesports.com, outside.co.uk, urbanrock.com, as well as the usual suspects such as Cotswolds & Gooutdoors. But do go try some on!

    Premier Icon mikewsmith
    Subscriber

    if you are comfortable in chillis, then you are probably off 5-10's due to foot shape.

    +1000 for going and trying things on, a good shop with a good range of makes is important

    TN
    Member

    +1001 for trying them on.

    I have narrow feet and get on great with 5.10 and Scarpas, but the heel cup on Boreals is too wide for me so no good for heel hooking.
    You really cannot rely on other peoples recommendations for styles, only on their recommendations for performance and quality.

    If you are quite new to the sport it's probably best to go for something with a firmer sole to give your foot some support – until your feet get used to the pressure on them a soft sole with little support isn't going to do you a lot of good and also they'll wear out that much quicker.

    Consider looking in Decathlon – apparently their shoes are not bad for beginners.
    And don't assume if a size 40 (for example) in a 5.10 shoe fits you, a size 40 Scarpa will – they're so variale.

    Good luck.

    If they ain't hurting a little bit, they're no good… 😆

    Seriously though, go to your local shop, it'll probably be run by one or two nice guys who'll go through loads of different shoes with you. Try them on and see how they feel. All the major manufacturers are great. I love Boreal and La Sportiva and hate every other shoe but the lads above…some of them swear by 5.10s and Scarpas….horses for courses, balls for walls.

    Enjoy (but, start doing routes!!)

    B.A.Nana
    Member

    I have wide feet, so Scarpa and 5:10 have always been my choice. Most others I've tried have been too narrow. Same with Mountaineering boots, always had Scarpas, Salomon and La Sportiva boots are always far too narrow for me.

    richyg
    Member

    I had some Anasazi 5.10 velcros but they didn't fit my feet too well. very baggy around the heel.

    A friend of mine recommended Decathlon's Quechua (sp?) technical climbing shoes. They were £40 for their top velcro ones. Apparently they are very similar to some La Sportiva's but a fraction of the price. I've been really impressed with them. I find them incredibly comfy.

    Admittedly the rubber isn't quite as good as 5.10's stealth but it's still good. The day it's only the coefficient of friction holding back my climbing i'll be a very happy man!

    Don't be put off by the decathlon name, i've found them great.

    ianv
    Member

    If you are only climbing on resin you dont need super sticky, technical shoes as the holds are generally positive.

    I would go for something that is reasonably comfortable, easy to slip on and off and is not too expensive. Something like a modern update of the old boreal ninja.

    great advice! im going to visit my local outdoor shop tomorow that has a good selection of climbing shoes and basically just ask to try a handfull of differnt ones on. And then i shall take it from there.

    Edukator
    Member

    Boréal Firés.

    get them resoled

    http://www.feetfirst.resoles.co.uk/

    How hard are you climbing? Tight shoes only help for really, really tiny foot holds.

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