So some time ago I stripped the paint off my new Sovereign and have decided on clear coating it. I’m pretty sure a powdercoater is the way to go, but haven’t ever done this kind of thing before. I keep reading that the clear powdercoat + a layer of 2-pack lacquer on top is the most durable combination for a raw steel frame. Though correct me if it’s wrong! I’m wondering a couple of things:

Does the frame need any further prep before powdercoating?
(so far it’s been stripped with Nitromors and gone over with ISO alcohol & ultra fine scotchbrite pad.)

Can anyone suggest a good powdercoating firm to go to for this kind of job? How are Maldon Shotblasting and Armourtex?

Before:

After:

I think, generally, powder coaters tend to blast parts to give the powder a key so you’ll lose the blued welds. Would a coat of clear 2k lacquer do the job?

You probably waisted your time stripping it. Most but not all powder coaters will want to strip it themselves so they know it’s clean of all dirt grease etc before coating or people go back complaining the new paint finish is rubbish

Keep it roar

Beat you to it !
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/evil-sovereign-frame-clear-powder-coated-large

That’s a wicked looking frame :). Worth more than it sold for in my opinion, also considering how much of a pig it is getting the paint off these frames!

Out of curiosity, where did you get it coated?

and did you have 2k lacquer sprayed on top to keep it extra rust proof?

I polished the frame with 1500grit emery and then blue scotch brite, fully de greased then handed over to my local powder coat guy for clear coat powder coating.
£30
Has done a lot of stuff for me and is top notch, looked far better in the flesh than the overly harsh flash pics.

Regretted selling it as soon as the guy was putting it in his car!

The powder coaters is local to me in Haslingden, Rossendale. 2k wouldn’t stick to the powder coat and isn’t necessary anyway.

I’m not sure what the wet paint would add. The powder coat would effectively be doing the same job. Shot/grit blasting would change the surface giving it a rough profile and a matt appearance. Once you have a cured system the powder coat and wet paint are effectively the same – given differences in the chemistry chosen but, for example you can get epoxy/amine wet paints and powder coats.

Talk to your powder coater.

In general clear coats offer little barrier properties as the resins are not impermeable to water. Barrier properties are provided by pigmentation. Won’t be a massive problem for bikes* but may shorten the live and you may have defects appear earlier.

*my experience is offshore where it would never be done to my knowledge.

looks great RAW, love raw frames…..wonder why more company’s never offer it

probably cos of what Jonba said.

still an fantastic frame, like a big BMX..
Im really happy that I didnt sold my old sov…
it just takes some rest hanging on the wall 🙂

would choose the same treatment like rustynissan,
brushed and clear powdercoated…
did this with my, now gone, QH slimJim and really liked it !
frame is still without any rust after 3 years…

What about a faux raw paint job ?

Just an update: I spoke with Duncan at Armourtex over the phone about clear powdering it as it is, and it won’t be accepted unless it’s phosphated and treated by them prior to coating (which would strip away the welded look). For the reason that it wouldn’t be as durable and doesn’t measure up to their usual quality of work, which I guess is fair enough for anyone who takes pride in their work.

The good news is that he confirmed that it’s definitely possible to clear coat it as it is now- only condition being I have to find another powdercoater who’s willing to do it.

Rusty, I’ll look up your local coater and see if they’re open to the idea

At the same time, could anyone suggest a powdercoater anywhere in the country that’s done this before and are still willing to do it?

I’m aware of the potential long term issues with clear coat on untreated steel, and welcome any battle scars that turn to rust spiders! Anything’s better than leaving it completely bare after all. 🙂

This is my guy;
http://www.powdercoatingsnorthern.co.uk/index.htm

You need to speak to Alan.

I did mine about 6 months ago – in fact just before I sold it so i don’t know how well it resisted rusting from the inevitable scratches/scuffs.

I’ve probably had 5 or 6 frames coated by Alan over the years and they have always been great, a few of them here;

Brooklyn Park frame frame refurb

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Brooklyn Racelink full bike refurb (frame, swingarm, Profile cranks, brake arm, sprockets)

Did an Orange 5 at the same time as my Evil and that was nice (but no pics)

That Racelink is my biggest bike sale regret ever (its now in Norway). Should never have sold it!!!!!!

one of my BMXs with factory RAW finish. It’s 13 years old and still looking good.

Many thanks for the info, I wasn’t sure if it was them or Moto-Wheels. Those frames look really good, especially that Racelink. Have you got pics of the full bike?

When they’re open tomorrow I’ll have a chat with Alan and see if the job can be done. In case the answer is the same as Armourtex’s, I have a back up plan:

POR-15 degreaser, metal-prep, and rust proof paint, in Clear. Will need to hand brush it all. And get high off the fumes!! Though if going this route a top coat paint will have to be added to prevent daylight turning the POR-15 yellow. A 2k lacquer like Spraymaxx or Eastwood as the last coats should do the trick. But that means investing in a proper rebreather mask as that stuff is deadly. Massive faff, potentially hazardous to my health, several days of attentive work needed, but it’s the last resort if the powdercoater says no! If doing the DIY route, I’ll photo-document the whole process step-by-step. Someone might find it handy if they ever consider doing it at home. One way or another I will have this thing clear coated 🙂

Nice BMX, it’s pretty much pristine. Those bars look insanely large in proportion to the rest of the bike! 13 years and no rust is impressive given the rep of clearcoat over steel. Does it get ridden outside? 😛

Alan doesnt seem overly fazed doing stuff – I’ve taken frames that had dents filled with JB weld and he’s happily coated them. I’ve always walked in though and chatted with him.

I found another pic of the Brooklyn Park frame. I thought the finish was wet when I picked the frame up from them-it was that glossy and smooth – it looked like used engine oil had been poured over it!

Racelink pic, only just built hence taping the brake hose.

Brooklyn Park frame

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Such a badass bike.

The finish on the Park frame looks great. If that were my frame I’d be very pleased. Bet it looks even better in person. Out of curiosity, how much were you charged to coat the Sov?

I’d so much prefer to walk in and have a chat about it in person, but as I live quite far away it’ll have to be with the old dog and bone. Glad to hear he’s not overly fazed about this sort of stuff though! I’ll see what he says tomorrow anyhow. 🙂

The Racelink cost £65 for the frame, swingarm, cranks and brake arm, hardtails have been £30-40, the Orange 5 was £55.