- Christmas Airfix!
Just Copydex. We had some in. It worked well.
I can see salt working too though now you mention it.
I’m going to scuff up the paint round the canopy opening too, then cover it with smoke stains, leaks and general crap. The decals will be chipped and scuffed as well.
I want it to look like the last plane they had left.Posted 8 months ago
The Last Samurai
Quite pleased with this one.
New techniques to me for this build.
– Thinned the paint for the first time.
– Used a PVA solution to settle the decals.
– Used “The Copydex Method” to get the paint chips.
– Thinners and enamels for the dirt.
– Used a pin vice with a 0.8mm bit to drill out the gun ports.
– Cleaned up the paintwork on the canopy with a bamboo kebab stick before it had fully dried.
Airfix A6M Zero. It went together very nicely and only cost me £6.Posted 8 months ago
Liking the ‘Zero’ very much HtS!
Are you sticking with 1/72 as your scale of choice?
A recent revelation for me has been Tamiya Sanding sponges – great for giving primer coats a quick smooth, especially in those awkward areas like wing joints where I often get a slight ‘grainy’ surface due to airbrushing ‘turbulance’ despite my best efforts to follow the contours.Posted 8 months ago
Are you sticking with 1/72 as your scale of choice?
We haven’t got space for anything bigger. I can’t even have a go at the bigger aircraft. I’d like to do a Canberra but won’t fit on the shelves in my lad’s room.
Also, my daughter has started making them. So that makes three of us and the production rate is quite high.
Work has started on a Revell Me262, my lad is doing another Zero and my daughter has got a Curtis Warhawk.Posted 8 months ago
We haven’t got space for anything bigger.
The ‘perennial problem’ eh?
Most older efforts (with a few exceptions) generally get photographed, boxed up and relegated to the attic – and I don’t have the ‘production line’ volume capabilities you have!
I only asked about the scale as I’ve recently enjoyed the switch from mainly 1/72 to 1/48 – they take longer, but the scope for detail & weathering is far greater since much of these effects are either lost or inappropiate on many smaller 1/72 scale models.
I’ve got to make some new shelving though, to accomodate the larger projects!!
Work has started on a Revell Me262
Have you seen this month’s ‘Airfix Model World’ magazine? Nice article and builds of both Airfix’s & Revells Me262Posted 8 months ago
Update – The Me262 build is stalled as i’m waiting for some “liquid gravity” and the necessary glue to turn up. It needs 20g nose weight and I can’t get that with Blutac and there isn’t enough space for the wheel balance weights that are in the Lightning and the Flanker.
To avoid me having to endure the tennis I started a Douglas Dauntless, but found that the instrument panel is missing, so I am at the mercy of Airfix Customer Services. Previous dealings with them have been excellent, so both builds should be back up and running next week. The Dauntless is a very old moulding so I’ve got a lot flash to remove. I wouldn’t have gone for it normally, but it was in my Airfix Christmas Hamper and it will sit nicely with the Zero.
I’m going to go “Free Style” on the Me262 colour scheme as a practice run for my Sea Vixen. I’ve had it for a few months now and don’t want to balls it up because a) It is my favourite plane and b) The kit cost quite a lot relative to the others.
Have you seen this month’s ‘Airfix Model World’ magazine? Nice article and builds of both Airfix’s & Revells Me262
Thanks for the tip off, they had it in Tesco! The J15 looks amazing and makes my Flanker look very amateurish. 😕Posted 8 months ago
Have you tried using the weights that anglers use?Posted 8 months ago
Or if you have a radio controlled model shop handy, they usually sell lead weights in strips of 2.5g & 10g. Although the nose of a 1/72 Me262 is a tad small, all you need to do is get the weight forward of the main wheels
I’ve got some model specific stuff.
Rather irritatingly though I’ve just popped into the LMS (Local Model Shop) and found that I could have bought it over the counter for a bit less than I paid for it on line. Bugger.
Big shout out for my excellent LMS.Posted 8 months ago
Need to get 20g in it. Couldn’t get more than half that with Blutac alone and I don’t know how dense plasticine is in comparison.
I’m betting the 20g is an overstatement, but i’ll just have to wait until my stuff arrives.
I’ve got a Fairey Gannett than needs 35g IIRC. No idea where I’m going to shove that!Posted 8 months ago
Is this stuff any good?
‘Micro set’ (Blue) goes on the area where the decal is to be applied in order to reduce surface tension. This one smells a bit ‘vinegary’
Decal is applied and then Micro Sol (Red) softens the decal to the contours & detail of the model.
Both are good, but I probably use much more ‘sol’ than ‘set’. Preferable to Humbrol’s Decalfix which I find leaves a sticky residue (although Decalfix is quite useful with weathering powders)Posted 8 months ago
Got bored with this one very quickly once I saw that the canopy had the shape and opacity of a big toe nail. Finished it anyway but I’m not feeling the love for it.
New techniques this time:
Panel lines with a 6B pencil and blended with a cotton wool bub.
Blending paint colours with thinners.
Using Micro Sol to set the decals.
The jury is out on whether I like it or not.
If you want to build a 1:72 Me262 buy the Airfix one.Posted 7 months ago
New techniques this time
@HtS – have you had a look at Diego Quijano’s Encylopedia of Aircraft Modelliing techniques? There’s 5 volumes and it can work out quite pricey for all 5 but there’s some good stuff in there.
For sure many of the techniques are probably on various YouTube Channels but you’d probably have to spend a lifetime watching dross on YouTube.Posted 7 months ago
Numpty question: If you pick out the panel lines with a pencil, do you lacquer over it?
Depends – if the model is likely to be handled in anyway, then yes – a final coat of varnish with ‘seal’ any panel lines & weathering.
I’ve seen it done where the panel lines & a bit of panel either side are painted black over primer but before colour coat
I’ve had mixed results with this ‘pre-shading’ technique – it works fine and is very effective on lighter paint colours but pretty much disappears with the likes of dark earth & dark green WWII RAF camo – especially after dark green unless I leave the green quite ‘opaque’ in which case the camo just doesn’t look right.
For dark colour schemes I’ve had better results with ‘post shading’ and various ‘Panel Line Washes’Posted 7 months ago
Just bought a Revell 1:48 Stearman. Looking at the packaging it’s either a new kit or just new packaging. Instructions are in colour and very similar to the instructions for the new Airfix kits, e.g the 1:48 Boulton Paul Defiant.Posted 7 months ago
Not sure about rigging a biplane though. Done it before with black cotton thread, looks messy, there has to be a better way
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