Last one from me for 2017 – Tamiya 1/35 M113 ACAV Vietnam era. Built OOB with some Eduard photo etch detail.
Airbrushed exterior with Tamiya XF62 Olive Drab, misted over with XF52 Flat Earth from below, together with their mud stick for the tracks. Just the commander to add but he’s not dry yet
Looks good John! What are the mud sticks you mentioned? I’ve got a Tamiya Merkava that needs finishing & have little idea on how to make it look used, was wondering what to do with the tracks.
Hi Harry, only just got around to checking back on this thread, thanks for finding the Abebooks copies, I’ll put an order in, it’s the one book I did that I didn’t keep a copy of and regret, I did some others about aircraft, the Supermarine Scimitar was one, and I can’t find a copy of that among the ones I designed either, but it’s the Gannet I want.
Cheers again, and Happy New Year!
That M113 ACAV is a good build, my mate will be interested in that, I think, although he’s more int WW2-era, and the slightly more obscure stuff at that – rare Japanese, French and Italian tanks, for example.
I’ll send him the link to this page, he does lots of intricate detail work, adding extra Jerry cans, strapping, weathering and anything else, and spends ages researching correct paint colours as well, the construction photos I’m sure he’ll like to see.
and spends ages researching correct paint colours as well,
I (think I) read about ‘scale colouring’ some years ago, something to do with the size of an object (a scale model) reflecting different levels of light.
IE a 1/72nd scale aircraft painted in barley grey would reflect less light than a full size one, so the model would look darker than the full size one.
Please tell me I’m not talking bollox & that I imagined the whole thing. 😕
That kind of makes sense. But also how often do you look at your scale models in true daylight I.e. outside? And how often do you look at the full size object indoors (unless you happen to have access to your local hangar / tank museum)
Thanks, but I’ve had such a massive falling out with it that it was bundled off to my lad’s bookcase before the varnish had dried. Hateful bloody thing.
I’ve jumped straight on to the next one as it will be my first air brush build. I’ve done the cockpit with a brush though.
That kind of makes sense. But also how often do you look at your scale models in true daylight I.e. outside? And how often do you look at the full size object indoors (unless you happen to have access to your local hangar / tank museum)
Well I certainly wouldn’t, & you certainly wouldn’t, but there’ll be some geek somewhere that would!
That Gannet turned out ok Harry but I know what you mean about hating a kit. You get to a point where your’e saying to yourself, ‘get in the bin!’ (not yourself obs) Or want to whack it with a hammer.
I’ve certainly seen information about lightening paint colours according to a model’s scale, though I’ve never done it myself. I recall that while in practice paints generally get lightened, technically the idea is that scale colours tend towards a pale grey, rather than to white.
Have you fitted the weapons pylons already? Are there any underwing decals to do?
I tend to leave off the hardpoints on fast jets until i’ve done the decals and clear top coat, whether Matt or gloss
I’ve an old 1/48 Airfix Lightning that I’ve dusted off for a refurb, I’ve successfully removed the paint and have reassembled but the underside of the leading edge of the wing is proving to be difficult. I’ve had to fill and sand so many times that the fine detail has been lost.
Does anyone have any tips for rescribing the panel lines and how I might go about replicating the rivet details?
PJM1974 – Member
Does anyone have any tips for rescribing the panel lines and how I might go about replicating the rivet details?
Old style Dymo tape is flexible enough to conform to wings and the like but thick enough to act as a useful ruler for a scribing tool. I use a Tamiya scribing tool that is easier to use than a pin or other sharp point for rescribing panel lines, provided you don’t have to use it in a constrained space.
Does anyone have any tips for rescribing the panel lines and how I might go about replicating the rivet details?
Snap the tip off of a Swann Morton scalpel blade (wear goggles!) and then use the back of the blade to score the line, the square back where it’s been snapped off leaves a nice groove.
As above use Dymo tape as a guide.
Rivets I don’t worry about as any you recreate in 1/72 will be very oversized. You can use a dressmakers/tailors tool called a ‘ponce wheel’ which is similar to the model shop things but a lot cheaper.
First go with the airbrush. I think I was holding it too far away as the finish is very matt. Not a problem with this one as it will be “dirty”, but I need to practise before I try anything “clean”.
I think what has happened here Harry, is the paint has dried before it’s hit the model. You can get inhibitors that slow the paint drying, or you can use a thinner paint, closer in, with less pressure. I run at 10psi from about 6in for flood coverage, 5psi for a ‘mud mist’ or for exhaust & gunfire stains. Mix of Tamiya & Revell acrylic paints thinned with Tamiya X20A thinners.
Sometimes I do camouflage free hand, but I’m just in the middle of a Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire MkI build where I’ve used a mix of paper masks and Tamiya masking tape cut to shape. I have tried masking camouflage patterns with Humbrol Maskol, but that tends to leave a ragged edge when you peel it off. Nearly all my aircraft builds are 1/48 unless it means a humongous finished article… military models I like in 1/48 & 1/35. I can’t be doing with 1/72 (or 1/76), the parts are too small for my sausage fingers
I know it’s an unfashionable view at the minute, (and I know that personal views are always subjective) but I’m not a fan of overly weathered 72nd scale kits. I think it’s fine for some of the larger scales like 48th but it can look a bit overdone on smaller planes, especially panel lines.
look at this photo
this is a MkIX in 1942, note how it is’t that dirty..(ok, it has just rained 😆 ) and you can barely see some of the fainter panel lines. the exhaust and gun staining is barely visible.
I guess it depends what you’re aiming for, and weathering is fun, but when I competed I was always marked down for it.
Posted 6 years ago
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