I use a 40t chainring and 11-42 sunrace cassette. I do spin out on the downs, however as ive also dropper post the areo positions means I can keep up with most road groups (faces of roadies as I pass them is worth it).

The 40/42 enables me to grind up the 10<25° slopes of the cotswolds and the 40/11 tops out at about 30mph.

I use TRP hylex brakes and a shimano deore mtb shifter and gears with a bodged mount on the drop bars.

I have a 38T with a 10-42. The Rival 1 groupset came with a 42T, combined with the 10T that’s like a 46-11, so pretty high. I barely used the high end so I went down to a 38T. 38-10 is like 42-11, not that high. But when I spin it out gravity does the job anyways, i’m not in a hurry, and now I actually use the 10T. 😀

42-42 was nice but I wanted something easier for offroad climbs. 38-42 is much better. Sometimes I would still like an Eagle with a 50 at the back for climbing steep singletrack.

I’ve just had my old Filter blasted & powdercoated as it was looking a bit scabby – building it back up as a singlespeed for this winter as it’s less to clean 🙂

Picked up a cheap Alfine crankset & an Alfine tensioner so hopefully that’ll keep the chain in check – mudguards are going back on & a set of 32c Voyager Hypers should keep everything rolling along nicely, can’t wait to get it finished & back on the road

Other than the tensioner that looks good

Cheers, that tensioner is a bit of a lump isn’t it! I tried an almost new Kool chain I had from an old bike & I might have actually got away with it by adding a half link – I may still try that idea as there’s only so much lateral adjustment from the tensioner the chainline might not be 100% Or maybe i’ll get one that doesn’t weigh as much as the geared parts I removed put together…

Get a tensioner that pivots around the bb.

Keeps it much tidier.

Hi All,

Servicing my Plug at the moment and having thoughts of changing the PX fork for something less weighty.

Am I right in thinking the critical measurements would be AC of roughly 395 and rake of 45mm?

Would increasing A-C by 10mm have much effect as these seem light and a good fit

https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/rahmen-gabeln-c6/rigid-forks-c51/bontrager-satellite-carbon-700c-disc-fork-p21418

Any other recommendations?

I’m using a Genesis Croix de Fer fork in my Plug. Around 405mm AC, 50mm rake. The fork itself is horrible, but I didn’t notice anything weird about handling, I actually really like how my bike handles. I couldn’t find any info if the stock fork was 45 or 50mm rake. Tried to measure it but failed. 😀

That Bontrager fork doesn’t look like it has a lot of tyre clearance, any info on that? This is the non disc version but it looks pretty bad. 32mm tyres:

Unfortunately it’s so hard to find a straight 1 1/8 fork, so not a lot of options. There is the Fyxation which is thru axle and has mounts but it’s much more expensive and i’m not sure if someone sells it in Europe.

Sparta All Road Carbon Fork

Bike Discount.de came to the rescue for me when the stock forks needed replaced (side note, it was a warranty job but Wiggle didn’t have any warranty replacement forks, so they refunded me the money I had to pay Bike Discount for a new set of forks, top service!).

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/rigid-forks-4725/l-24

<h3>Product features</h3>

• Use: Trekking, Cross, Cyclocross
• Wheel Size: 28″
• Steerer: 1 1/8 “Ahead aluminum (350mm)
• Offset: 45mm
• Axle to Crown: 397mm
• Dropout: Standard quick release 9x100mm
• Disc brake mount: Disc IS2000
• Maximum Rotor Size: 160mm
• Max Tire Width: 1.8″
• Features: Suitable for mudguard mounting

Wow, I checked bike-discount a few times, didn’t think to check the trekking section! It’s probably pretty dumb but i’m a bit scared of these cheaper carbon forks since I also use my bike a lot offroad in a way it was not really designed for. How is the Radon fork holding up for you?

I really want this Soma fork, but it’s so expensive here…

50mm rake, 15mm thru axle, clearance for 45s WITH fenders, could probably slap on a 180 rotor, weight is around 1050g. 150-200 bucks in the US, about €300 here in Europe… 🙁

Radon fork has been fine, to look at it seems really good quality, well finished etc, and given that it was barely any lighter than the stock all aluminium fork, I doubt it’s underbuilt! Have only used it for road and very light offroad (tow paths) so haven’t really tested it.

Got lazy and gave it to my local shop to fit, they gave it back with the front wheel only half inserted, complaining that they were cheap forks and the dropouts were too tight for the axle. I’d be more inclined to think it was the fault of the cheap hubs than the forks, but a little bit of work with a rat tail file and the wheel slotted in fine.

Edit: actually looking more closely at the fork spec, it says 9mm QR axle, I think my nutted/threaded axle probably has an O.D. of 10mm?

The rear is supposed to be 10mm, and the front is supposed to be 9mm.

That just gave me an idea… The problem with my Croix de Fer fork are the dropouts.

If I don’t put washers under the brake caliper, the pads will grab the rotor about 1-2mm too low. The dropouts are so much wider than the actual axle. I have to fight to get the wheel in straight, and I always have to adjust the brakes again if I take out the wheel. I know that’s common with quick release, but in the back I can take out the wheel, put it back in and everything is perfect.

My brake pads wear weird at the front and I don’t think the front brakes work as good as they should, i’m pretty sure things are misaligned no matter what I do.

But I just checked, and the 10mm end caps from my Hunt rear wheels fit perfectly in the front…

What the hell?

Lol, your front fork is probably designed for my cheap threaded hubs!

Thanks for the comments, wonder if the Disc fork has better clearance than the one above, not much info out there.

Just seen this Lynskey fork, looks spot on?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lynskey-Endurance-Fork/123375714044?hash=item1cb9c3fefc:g:sMYAAOSwGfVbn6vn

Yup, looks spot on, great tyre clearance and since it’s a Lynskey it’s probably good stuff. Not expensive either.

I’d go with this over the Bontrager for sure. Awesome deal IMO.

Sneaky advert as my charge plug frame (med), carbon forks, Chris king headset, stem and carbon disc wheels is up for sale (pm me if interested).

Hello all (first post – but long-timer watched of this thread!)

I bought one of the plug frames about 2 years ago with the plan to build-up my first bike, before other things got in the way! I got my frame out yesterday and one closer inspection there’s quite a bit of rust inside the frame (see photos). It’s been stored inside since I bought it.

Is this something to worry about?! (Realise this is most likely a stupid question!) .I was hoping to build-up for this to be my main bike (sadly only have space for 1) so any advice very gratefully received !

https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipOQ5Arb6kbOQ_40ume99EjSHG92AkJDBXItFJA

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOvJ-RGXhbI2fXvmKOxKIKwzyd6_bB-eTLnktU

Those links don’t work.

Without seeing it I’d say its almost definitely absolutely totally fine unless you can see daylight through it.

Bike frames seems to surface rust spectacularly but take an AGE to rust though.

Sorry about the links – hopefully this should do it:

Thats not rust! its barely even patina! get it built 😀

Thanks! It’s going to be my only bike so wanted some reassurance that I wasn’t throwing money away !
I may ost likely be back with some more questions!

Superficial rust will be fine. I just sprayed some oil in the drainage holes in the tubes before the build and during servicing.

Just avoid spraying grease or bearings with oils, it can breakdown the protective grease.

Fork wise, for £150 check this out:

https://www.brothercycles.com/shop/accessories/kepler-disc-carbon-fork/

– Carbon blades
– Alloy crown and dropouts
– Alloy 1 1/8″ steerer
– Rake: 45mm
– Axle-crown: 400mm
– 42c clearance
– Weight: 750g

Not the cheapest or crazy expensive – my old man foo’ked one of his dropouts with a blind driver. Frame is still straight but dropout and wheel buckled.

Hopefully this makes the bike a little lighter and safer. Went the QR route so we can still use old wheels in the shed.

Couldn’t do that with a carbon frame eh?

Nearly finished mine, after nearly 3 years (had all the bits but a house purchase meant I just didn’t have time to put it together) – just a few bits of tinkering and fettling. The lower chainstay cross member appears to have a threaded hole in it, which I presume is for mounting a mudguard. I fancy blocking it from grime with a well greased bolt – can anyone tell me what size it is? Is it the same size as the bottle cage bolts?

M5, same as everything else. Make sure it’s very well greased stainless – I’ve had some fun trying to get seized button heads out of that hole!

I used m5 stainless grub screws on all the mudguard and rack holes. And used a bit of matt black nail polish to thread lock them in. Didn’t loose one in the time I had mine. You can pick up a 10x pack on ebay for about £1.60

It’s done. Been out today on it and I’m really impressed. Need to juggle tyre pressures, play with stem lengths and perhaps gear ratios, but it’s nearly there.

One last time to try and upload a pic…

Nice bike Superjohn71!

Rebuilding my Dad’s Plug on the weekend.

New carbon fork, saddle, road wheels and mainly a road set up with 28mm tyres now he has another bike for CX/adventure.

Nice superjohn. I have same forks and mine looks scarily similar!

People still running their Plugs?

Mine is still going strong, being used for everything from local bridleways to commuting, might even do a bit of a light tour on it.

My 70 year old Father hits 80 miles a week on it with 2 rides of 30 miles each and the odd 16 mile hill training.

I was feeling under the weather from too many late nights and using my 38mm CX and struggled to keep up with him as we found the sweet spot of comfort and road speed.

I blame the Sun as it was far too hot ahem.

Received a race Face 90mm stem in the post today which should sorry out the riding position in mine. Not to sure about the gearing as yet as I haven’t done any rides longer than 30 miles in it due to it not being as comfortable as my other gravel type bike due to the stem, but I suspect it needs a bigger cog up front. Love it to bits though. It’s surprisingly capable off road.

People still running their Plugs?

Mine is still going strong, being used for everything from local bridleways to commuting, might even do a bit of a light tour on it.

I still ride mine, unfortunately i’m not happy with a lot of things on my build, especially considering how much money i’ve spent on it. I think mine will be replaced with an XC MTB, the only thing missing are the funds… 😀

I managed to squeeze some mudguards on my plug 5 with the 47mm 650b Byways. Clearance is very tight, especially at the seatstay bridge, but I’ve gone on a few rides and haven’t had any rubbing yet. Had to make liberal use of zip ties to get everything mounted, but I am pretty happy with it so far. Haven’t taken them off-road yet but I’ll try it soon, a bit worried about getting gunked up with the tight clearance.

These are the 650Beast 55 mm fenders from Portland Design Works. My bike is XS size frame for reference, with stock fork.