Running my gravel bike with 2×11 SRAM Rival gearing. I’m starting to get quite a bit of chainsuck on the inner chainring in mucky conditions. Think the drivetrain is wearing; the teeth on the inner ring are quite ‘hooked’.

As I’m going be replacing parts, I’m considering going 1×11.

Is that likely to help minimise future chainsuck, ie using a NW chainring albeit with a standard Rival (non clutch) rear mech? I’ve never had chainsuck on MTB 1×11, but I guess a clutch mech helps with that?

And … supplementary question … if I go 1×11, will a 40/42 chainring and a 11-40/42 cassette play nicely with my Rival (med cage) rear mech?

Since going 1x on my MTB’s about 8/9 years ago I’ve never suffered from chainsuck.

My old gravel bike has got a wasted drivetrain, but is 1x and never had an issue either.

And … supplementary question … if I go 1×11, will a 40/42 chainring and a 11-40/42 cassette play nicely with my Rival (med cage) rear mech?

Yes, but consider this, if you’ve worn out your inner (I’m guessing 34t) ring on 2×11 Rival which I’m guessing has a 11/32 cassette, don’t go fitting a 42t front ring on a single as you’ll be walking everywhere.

Lets say you’re on 700x38c tyres, not massively important for this part, in your lowest gear of 34F/32R you’re moving 2.3m for every turn of the pedals.

Now with a 40t front ring you’ll need a 42t rear to move 2.1m with every turn or 2.4m in the 36t at the back.

With a 42t front you’ll be in the 42t rear all the time you were in lowest previous combo to do 2.2m, fractionally easier but a long time spent at the extreme of the cassette.

Bosh a 38t front on there and you’ve pleasantly sat in the 36t on the back to get your lowest gear.

All my MTBs are now 1x partly because it was so successful at eliminating chainsuck.

Again, 1x eliminated chainsuck for me, and is a better solution than running an Alfine hub which I did for a couiple of years. I wrecked a PACE 303 frame thru chain suck.

All my MTBs are now 1x partly because it was so successful at eliminating chainsuck

So, do we think the reason for this is the use of a NW chainring, or clutch mech, or both? I’d be planning to use my current non clutch mech ideally (I also have a brand new med cage Rival mech in the spares box … Guess I could see if Wiggle would take a return/refund)?

Current gearing is 33/48 front, 11/34 rear. If I go all in for 1x, and replace the mech as well, what’s the biggest cassette I could run at the back? Would an 11/46 go?

On my gravel bike I’ve SRAM Force and run a 42t and 11-42 cassette – but when it’s due for change I’m moving to a 11-50 cassette (and a ‘goat-link’) as a pal has done.

Same top end but lots more bottom end.

So, do we think the reason for this is the use of a NW chainring, or clutch mech, or both?

I *think* I can recall getting chainsuck on previous 1x setups pre-narrowwide rings, but that’s a few years ago. I’ve not had it with narrow wide chainrings as far as I can recall. My GRX 1x setup has never chainsucked despite very worn alu chainrings and a clutch that’s turned off. So I think it’s the narrow-wide.

BUT it may be because I’ve found NW rings lose their chain-retention capabilities when they’re moderately worn so I’ve probably replaced them sooner than I otherwise would have

hardtailonly
Full Member

So, do we think the reason for this is the use of a NW chainring, or clutch mech, or both?

In a 1x setup the chainring does almost all of the work- as lots of people with older shimano mechs learned when the clutch broke and it just got a bit noisier but kept working almost exactly as normal.

In a multi-ring, don’t know.

Righto. Done a bit of research. I can return my BNIB Sram Rival 22 rear mech for a refund, and the cost of going 1x is less than replacing the full 2x drivetrain.

I assume that a new Rival 1 rear mech will work with my existing Rival shifter?

And any suggestions about what to do with the lever that currently shifts the front mech… is that just left to flap about? Could I use it for a dropper (not that I have one… yet!)