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Chain waxing on a tight budget
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temudginFull Member
New to this chain waxing caper and looking at giving it a try.
Putoline @ £30/kg or paraffin wax @ £9/kg??How much better is Putoline than just generic paraffin wax? Could a pinch of molybdenum disulphide be added to improve the paraffin?
Am I just being a skinflint?
Cheers
joshvegasFree Memberyou are being a skinflint. it lasts AAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGEEEEEEESSSSSSS
Fresh Goods Friday 696: The Middling Edition
Latest Singletrack VideosFresh Goods Friday 696: The Middlin...DazFree MemberStealth ad note, I have a chain wax company so take what I say in that light!!
You could make it yourself yeah, the wax needs to be highly refined paraffin wax which unfortunately isn’t that cheap and your additives are expensive. You’ll get some on the likes of Aliexpress but it won’t be the material you think it is.
Putoline is fine but I found it a bit oily for bicycle use. A harder drier wax doesn’t hold dirt and can be cleaned with hot water in the odd occasion it needs more than just a straight rewax. £18 will do 30-40 waxes
mertFree MemberI bought a load of high end wax (about 40€) in up to about 90 waxed chains over nearly 3 years and might buy some more wax next year…
leffeboyFull Memberwho are the good alternatives to putoline then? Was thinking of giving it a try although I still have 2litres of finish line to get through…
DazFree MemberA good few options on the market and some to avoid, avoid wend wax at all costs. Molten speed wax and silca are the main players. I think ours is better but I would say that 😉. Have test data and more ongoing with a rather enthusiastic professor who might possibly be mad!
13thfloormonkFull MemberPutoline is fine but I found it a bit oily for bicycle use. A harder drier wax doesn’t hold dirt and can be cleaned with hot water in the odd occasion it needs more than just a straight rewax. £18 will do 30-40 waxes
I’m finding this, latest application of Putoline on my new gravel bike has been a bit of an oily mess, not sure if it actually needs riding in the mud and the wet to remove the excess from the surface of the chain! I cleaned off and went back to Fenwick’s Stealth drip-on but I think I can already tell it doesn’t perform as well.
So please advertise your wares! What’s a harder, drier (cleaner) equivalent to Putoline? Is that basically what Molten Speed Wax is?
DazFree MemberI suppose MSW and my own aren’t significantly different, nor is silca for that matter. All three have similar waxes and additives. The harder wax is dry on the chain, you basically have to break the links free once the chain cools. A hard wax resists abrasion and also prevents contamination from clinging to it.
The additives give an extra layer of protection and lubrication as they burnish onto the inner surfaces of the chain in the high pressure areas
The big benefit for off road though is ease of cleaning. After a wet ride or say 8-15 hours dry, just take your chain off and stick it in the slow cooker, come back in an hour, hang it to cool a while and refit. You never need to clean cassettes, jockey wheel etc again and chain wear is massively reduced.
temudginFull MemberI’d not realised that Putoline was a bit oily and sticky. I was looking at waxing to avoid dirt sticking to the chain and forming grinding paste.
When it arrives I will return it and buy a hard dry wax instead.
Cheers for the advice Daz.continuityFree MemberHaving looked at all of the research available so far additives offer like a .5% benefit at the very most. If you buy food grade paraffin wax (not expensive, not hard to find contrary to above posts – can even just go to bulk catering supplies) and melt it in a slow cooker you’re golden.
Obv I bought MSW because I’m a tart. I won’t next time.
13thfloormonkFull MemberI’d not realised that Putoline was a bit oily and sticky. I was looking at waxing to avoid dirt sticking to the chain and forming grinding paste.
It’s weird, in general Putoline DOES prevent a grinding paste forming, but the sticky black Putoline can accumulate around jockey wheels/sprockets etc. where it’s generally harmless if you don’t touch it or accidentally dislodge a lump then accidentally track it into the house on the sole of your shoe etc. etc. (ask me how I know 🙄 ).
In principle Putoline is great but I’m hoping something like Daz’s will set cleaner or flake off more cleanly or something to avoid the sticky black accumulations! I’ve never perfected the art of getting a chain perfectly impregnated with Putoline without also leaving lots of excess on side plates etc
DazFree MemberFood grade paraffin wax works ok without a doubt but it’s a bit soft and sticky, comparatively of course. I use a blend of 3 waxes to get a harder version than standard paraffin wax. The term food grade is a bit misleading too I found, some are rated for packaging and some for consumption. The best simple wax I found was gulf wax but it’s still pricey.
I know I’m certainly not making a fortune from it and I buy the wax by pallet load. No plans to retire any time soon.
Any wax will be far superior to oils and drip on though so worth a try, you can always make candles with any reject stuff!!!
DazFree MemberI really don’t want to go full advert, so referring to any wax. Putoline and a couple of others have a comparatively high oil content, that’s what causes the black blobs. Harder waxes flake off mostly. It still works well but I think misses one of the main benefits in ease of cleaning.
Worth a read at all the test data on zero friction cycling as Adam can talk wax even more than I can, which I’m led to believe is quite an achievement 😬
theotherjonvFull MemberI’ve been really happy with putoline on my MTB, my Brompton, and my winter road bike (which is the same as my gravel / CX) but inevitably because of their use it is necessary to clean them far more often than I clean my good summer road bike, and the blackness of the putoline isn’t such an issue in that case.
I started but now don’t use putoline on the good road bike where it is a bit black and messy, i’m content with frequent redosing of a dry drip lube for that.
Are the hard wax lubes as good in the crap as putoline?
DazFree MemberI contend that the harder waxes are better and the test data on zero friction cycling does prove that. One of the tests worth reading Is the one for absolute black, I think their product has a similar approach to putoline.
I’ll get an add for my wax stuck up somewhere when I raise a few dollars. It’s all going on testing to get good hard data at the minute.
molgripsFree Memberlatest application of Putoline on my new gravel bike has been a bit of an oily mess,
After the first ride give the chaim a good wipe with a rag with WD40. This wipes off the excess that gets squished out of the rollers. After that you’re fine for months, no mess.
nickcFull MemberIf anyone manages to develop a wax chain lube without the faff-on, There’d lots of interest I reckon.
DazFree MemberI suppose it’s all down to how you see faff. I developed mine because I couldn’t be bothered with the faff of cleaning cassettes etc and prefer just to whack a chain in a slow cooker while I dunk myself in a bath.
I’m working on improving the wax drip on I have but despite some clever marketing it can never be as good as an immersive wax. I had thought of doing a wax emulsion tin to dunk chains in but even that isn’t as effective because a large amount of the wax is actually just solvent.
continuityFree MemberSmoove is the best drip on but drip ons never get properly inside the rollers, and the carriage solvent always ends up picking shit up.
squirrelkingFree MemberIs there a way to do it without resorting to fryers, slow cookers or such? Like one of those catering gel burners under an old pot or baking tin?
leffeboyFull MemberThanks for the info @daz. That’s super helpful
How are people handling breaking the links so often? I thought most of the 11/12 speed chains were single use links
joshvegasFree MemberIs there a way to do it without resorting to fryers, slow cookers or such? Like one of those catering gel burners under an old pot or baking tin?
Just chuck the tin on that coleman double burner you have. no need to decant it into anythign else.
continuityFree MemberHonestly, for the £9 I paid on eBay for an unused old 1.5l slow cooker I think you’re pushing into false economy there.
pampmyrideFree MemberMy usual advice it putoline for winter & candle wax for Summer. Puto more durable to winter filth. Was using home brew wax – pulled the cake from the pan & quite some dirt at the base. So now trying Engima Black wax.
squirrelkingFree Member@continuity yeah, probably. I dunno, it just bothers me, probably completely irrationally since the slow cooker will be safer.
tjagainFull MemberPutoline just works for me. The tour i am on now i have not touched the chain for well over a thousand mainly road miles incuding a couple of hundred wet miles. It is getting close to needing redoing now but a hundred miles to molgrips where he will dunk it again. Chan is clean no mess .
No experience with other waxes but wax is so much better than anything else i have used
DazFree MemberThe slow cooker thing is something I thought about a lot, I had tested waxes with a higher melt point and they were probably marginally better but I’d never sell them because someone would set their house on fire heating it on a stove and I’d end up in court. The slow cooker is so cheap and safe to use that I wouldn’t bother with anything else, no point reinventing the wheel. Throw your chain on the wax with the cooker on low and lid off and it would be safe for weeks if you forgot about it. I think that’s worth £13
genubahFree MemberI recently started waxing my chains, after reading about it here and listening to a couple of the ZeroFriction guy’s interviews.
For me, the faff is not the waxing part, but the initial cleaning of chains: it’s messy, takes time and there are a lot of residual chemicals that need to be disposed of sensibly.
The waxing itself is easy; a 1.5l slow cooker is less than half the price of a new XT chain. As for the wax, I’d go with one of the newer, specialised products, either Daz’ GLF wax or the Enigma Ultimate.tjagainFull MemberAlso my first 30 quid tin lasted a decade of almost daily riding
Chain life i guestimate is 4 times longer
tjagainFull MemberYou dont need to clean the chsin. Any grit comes out in the wax. Just dunk it in.
DazFree MemberI’m selling prepped chains too, agree it is a bit of work to get them clean and I’m buying chains retail so not making a big deal on them. I’m like a durg dealer though, trying to get you all hooked 😂
genubahFree MemberYou dont need to clean the chain.
You do before first waxing.
I’m selling prepped chains too
You are not the only OCD person here 🙂 I like to do my own prepping. I started with two used chains and two new ones. The used ones were easier, I use ProGold ProLink as lube and it cleaned up pretty well. The factory grease on the other hand… I’m seriously thinking of buying pre-waxed chains from now on.
molgripsFree MemberIs there a way to do it without resorting to fryers, slow cookers or such? Like one of those catering gel burners under an old pot or baking tin?
I wouldn’t. You’ve got no temperature control, you risk overheating the liquid part and smoking it whilst other parts are still solid. And it’s far more risky since you have a pot of hot oil on the floor ready to kick over or spill. And a naked flame in your garage which, if it’s anything like mine is a very very bad place to have a naked flame. And you’ll have to find a way of fishing your chain out of the tin.
Fat fryers on the other hand are specifically designed for the job of safely heating oil, controlling the temperature and providing a means to dunk stuff in it and retrieve it. It really is the way to go.
I got one for free from my local FB page.
How are people handling breaking the links so often? I thought most of the 11/12 speed chains were single use links
Meh, I don’t see how they can not be multi-use. I re-used them for ages back when they first came out, I had no idea they were meant to be single use. Have never had a quick link failure* before or since Putoline.
If anyone manages to develop a wax chain lube without the faff-on, There’d lots of interest I reckon.
I use it specifically because it’s less faff. When I want to go for a ride, I just grab the bike, ride, come back in and if it’s been muddy it’s just 3 mins with a hose – that’s it. No lubing of anything. Then once every couple of months when I have a spare moment for bike fettling I dunk the chain.
The other benefits are on top of that – like in winter, I was re-applying wet lube every ride, but it wasn’t lasting one ride, it was lasting about 30 minutes and I just had to keep going with a chain full of mud anyway. I haven’t done the maths but I’m sure I’ve already paid for a fryer and the tin of lube by buying fewer chains.
* except for that one time I had a KMC chain back when they had this weird design where you had to flex one side of the link to pop it open, rather than the usual sliding thing they have now. My chain got tangled up in some bizarre way that flexed the link and popped off half of it and I lost it.
OblongbobFull MemberJust bought some daz-wax to see how it goes. Putoline working pretty well for me but is a bit dirty so I’m curious to see if the harder wax keeps things clean.
molgripsFree MemberCan you do half a chain in Putoline and half in Daz and compare? 🙂
DazFree MemberDaz wax, you crack me up!! It is white sock compatible for the roadies amongst us. You could run two chains alternatively, one with mine and one putoline. I’ve done that comparison but I’m selling it so you won’t take my word for it!!
I hate salesmen and please god do not let me become one
squirrelkingFree MemberShould be a doorstep challenge.
Had no idea slow cookers and such were so cheap. Must admit a fryer makes more sense but will look at it when I get 5 minutes.
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