- Chain keeps dropping with my SS chain guide. Is it set up wrong or bad product?
Assume you mean the bottom-only roller for a double system? I have the same one (ISCG05 mount variant).
There is a problem getting it left-right aligned with the chainrings. I have a threaded BB so put two spacers in to shift the right-hand crank/chainrings further out to the right. Even then, it’s not great:
1. It’s probably not good for the BB as I suspect there is now a gap in the tunnel between the BB cups.
2. It’s upset the chain-line to the cassette, so shifting and front-derailleur rub is slightly compromised.
3. in small-front/big-back, if I back pedal slightly, the chain moves up onto the inside ridge of the roller and then off the inside of the chainring.
Lifting the roller might help but the chain then runs millimetres from the bottom of the chainstay and will damage it. This is with a clutch mech so it’s not due to lack of chain tension, it’s just that there isn’t room in the frame design to get good alignment. If the BB shell was a bit narrower and the chainstay a bit higher it might work better.
I’ll persist a couple of more rides but I can see myself removing it.Posted 4 years agohatterSubscriber
If you already have a clutch mech may I throw a Paul’s Chain keeper into the mix?
By far the neatest option, I have mine on a 1×10 Fortitude and it works beautifully, zero noise and yet to throw a chain.
If these had proper distribution they’d be everywhere, lovely little bits of engineering.Posted 4 years agoSuperficialMember
I’m not quite sure what the ‘custom’ adaptation is.
Your picture is far too small to be helpful, but the device looks a bit high?
The superstar devices are sometimes said to be slightly bendy and therefore not as secure as e13/MRP, but that’s mainly for the BB-mount versions – those seat-tube mounted versions should be pretty inflexible (I.e. better) so I’d guess it’s a case of positioning. I’m not convinced that changing to an e13 will do anything useful.
There’s a lot of talk about thick / thin or narrow / wide chainrings (à la XX) being better for keeping the chain on, maybe negating the need for a top guide. I’ve only used mine for one ride so far but it seems to be coping without any top guide on rocky peaks bridleways. I’d be inclined to believe the hype and get one of those rather than spending on a new chain device that will be incredibly similar.Posted 4 years agoNorthwindSubscriber
I’d also suggest the thick/thin and no guide, yet to drop the chain (and I used to do it often with an E13 ring and MRP guide on the same bike). Certainly better than a top guide, yet to find out how much better.
The Superstar one is pretty good, bit of a pain to set up right and the cage isn’t quite the right shape, but not far off. The backplate is maybe a little easy to bend, but that’s not generally an issue (chain devices work by keeping the chain in the right place rather than trying to force them onto the ring so they don’t really have to be very strong)
My MRP was much easier to set up but the end result was much the same.
Some chainrings/bolts/cranks can be awkward to work with, can be quite hard to get the guide down low enough especially with a 32T ring.Posted 4 years ago
I keep dropping the chain, at least once a ride, at least twice a race and it is getting really **** annoying. Is it the fact that I bought a superstar component or is it set up badly? No matter what I tweak it doesn’t seem to change anything. Seems to happen when going over rough ground, it was happening and dropping to the outside, now after adjustment it is dropping to the inside. A type 2 mech is being used.
It can not be moved down any further due to my “custom” adaptation for my cranks. Direct mounted front mech before hand and a press fit BB so my options were limited from the start.
Cheers guys,Posted 4 years ago
Custom adaptation is a 3mm steel plate to convert the bolt patterns. It also requires the device to be mounted higher and the chain ring to be cut to make it fit.
So you can’t put the device in the right position for it to work effectively, then?
What’s the reason for this almighty bodge, and can I suggest binning the whole lot, buying some SLX crank arms and running single works components ring?Posted 4 years ago
Superficial. Boardman in their infinate **** wisdom decided to go with FSA comet cranks, which are BB30 specific and have 3 bolts with a 86mm PCD as opposed to the standard 4 bolts with a 104mm PCD. I can not afford the £200 for FSA afterburner cranks and that plate cost me <£5 for two of them and works fine. I would rid of the almighty bodge but it would set me back a mother tonne of money.
The chain device fouls on the conversion plate and when it doesnt foul on the plate it then fouls on the chain ring bolts.
It also wouldnt mount any lower before because it fouled on my tabs for my direct mount front mech (ffs boardman) so I have already had to customise (read machine) that some what to get it to sit lower. Think I may machine some more out of it to get it to sit lower again then if that doesnt work get a chain keeper.Posted 4 years ago
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