I’m finally embracing the world of carbon frames and while I wait for it to arrive my paranoia is getting the better of me. Can anyone advise on the following bits and bobs I’ve picked up.

I’ve been told I shouldn’t clamp the frame in my workstand, is this true? If so are there any tips for how to fit it in a workstand or should I just not bother with the workstand at all?

I use a Thule towbar bike-rack at the minute, this has little straps that hold the frame to a vertical mount. See exhibits A and B below for examples. If I can’t clamp it in a workstand, does this mean I also shouldn’t strap the frame to the towbar rack either? Again, if that’s the case are there any tips for attaching it in a “safe” way?

Use the seat post to hold it in the workstand and use the straps as normal on the bike carrier (I assume you do not use an extra leverage to tighten the rack straps)

But what if it’s a carbon seat post, presumably that’ll have the same issue as clamping the frame itself?

No, no extra leverage, I just pull then tiht/snug. I might start putting some foamy pipe lagging between the strap and the frame for paranoia-easing peace of mind though 🙂

I clamp mine in the wokstand however just dont do it tight. As in just enough to secure it but not too much that you have to force it shut!You don’t need it tight, all you want is for it not to move about or fall out!

Also re the thule rack, had many carbon frames on it, if you mannage to crush the frame with the strap I will be impressed (assuming your just using your hand to tighten them).

General advice is to not clamp any frames in a workstand, not just carbon ones… They’re not designed for that sort of compression, while seatposts are, it can be surprisingly easy to squash a butted frame as people sometimes find out with front mechs. Though to be honest I happilly clamp all of mine by the frame when it seems useful (generally the seatpost is just a good place to do it)

No worries about attaching it to the bike rack, though you might want to be more careful of rub, depending on the bike- just like paint, some are better than others but if you do manage to rub through the cosmetic topcoat then the consequences of wear could come faster.

Thanks for the advice (and lack of Mickey taking 🙂 ).

Just need to twiddle my thumbs till it arrives now…

Why not transport the bike inside the car?

The consequences of cable, heel and any other sort of rub is a little greater on a carbon frame so helitape is your friend

When I had an Ibis Mojo I bought a dead cheap alloy seatpost just to use in the workstand, no problems.

Why not transport the bike inside the car?

Whenever possible I will, but when packed with family and luggage I won’t 🙂

The consequences of cable, heel and any other sort of rub is a little greater on a carbon frame so helitape is your friend

With the amount of helitape I’m planning to put on it, I may very well negate the weight saving of moving to carbon! 😀

Only exception to that advice is On One, whose carbon frames are officially incompatible with helicopter tape. Though the finish is also pretty weak and easy to damage, so you’re a bit caught on the horns there.

I’ve gone for a Trek so hopefully it’ll be helicopter-tape-proof!

What about roof mounted racks? Presumably those that clamp the down tube are out leaving fork mount ones?
(my bike also normally lives in the car but not on family holidays. The tow ball rack is getting full of children’s bikes now hence the interest in a roof mounted rack)

Only exception to that advice is On One, whose carbon frames are officially incompatible with helicopter tape.

They’re not incompatible with helicopter tape – they’re incompatible with removing helicopter tape. 😆

Yeah, that’s maybe true! I was told the glue had attacked the finish, rather than the finish just being too fragile to survive the tape coming off, but I don’t know for sure…

You really need to stop worrying.

Watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xreZdUBqpJs

is the on one / helitape issue just a cosmetic thing? surely pealing off the helitape can’t cause structural damage?

Just cosmetic, I reckon- though losing the cosmetic topcoat does leave the carbon more vulnerable to damage.

Clamping by the seatpost is fine if you’ve got a really good clamp, but most home workstands don’t have IME!

I clamp by the top tube on my Topeak Prepstand (and have done on at least 6 carbon Treks and 4 carbon S-Works!), never had an issue, just don’t be a gorilla on the clamp.

I put a rag around the jaws to stop the frame getting scratched, but I’d do that with alu frames too.