Looks like it’s time to replace the bearings on the bike (Nerve XC 8.0 2011/2012 model).

Canyon have quoted £65 for the labour, plus parts on top, but it seems like they’ve got to do some research to figure out which bearings to use first. Shame there’s not a bearing kit for each model in the range. Something to consider when buying the next full suspension bike! On the plus side, it only needs to be taken to Kingston for them to have a look at it and not Germany, so bonus!

I’m wondering if:
– Anyone’s used the service from Canyon, and would they recommend it.
– Anyone know which bearings will be required in case I can source them myself and get the LBS to do it. I know a few people have Canyons here, so I’m hoping someone will have the knowledge.

I’ve seen this article already, but it’s for a 2007 model sadly:

Canyon Nerve XC 9.0 rear suspension bearing change

Thanks.

Any decent LBS should be able to do it. And that sounds a bit expensive to me, to be honest.

Well, to be fair to them, they’ve gotten back to me now. They’re quoting a total cost of £218.40 for a full rear end rebuild including parts. Trying to find out what that gets me, because that sounds pretty damned steep.

On the plus side, they say it will feel like a new bike when I get it back! Not sure if they think that is a good thing because the better my lap times get the older the bike gets! 🙂

Out of interest how many miles have you done on the bike in order for the bearings to wear out?

I have a 2012 Nerve AM and after the chainstay pivot bolt kept coming loose I added extra grease to them and threadlocked all the pivot bolts on the bike. I’m rather hoping that they wouldn’t wear out too soon but then again the bike has only had mild use.

For the money you’ve been quoted there I’d be tempted to buy the tools and do it myself. especially if they’ve worn out after little use and are likely to do so again.

As posted in several places here, 😆 I have a 2011 Nerve AM. Though really happy with the bike, I did have a number of problems with it, inc drive side chainstay bearing completely gone, possible as the bearing seat sleeve insert was fitted on on the wrong side.
I got a full set FOC from Canyon UK (good support) and fitted them myself (got the bearing removal tool from Superstar). The other pivots were OK.

The assembly dwg listed all the bearing types; were all std and can be bought from a number of places discussed widely on STW. Ask Canyon for pdf or I can email my 2011/2012 copies.

As PeteP. £216 seems steep; though labour at £65 not too high.

Original quote from Canyon Oct 2012: “we can supply a complete set for approximately £50 plus shipping.”

You might not need to do them all. The chainstay ones would take most wear IME.

@mrelectric
It is the chainstay ones that are creaking. Perhaps I could just replace those, but I’m trying to find out exactly what my rear end rebuild gets me.

I’ve done close to 600km on the bike. Which doesn’t seem like much at all.

May see if I can get Canyon to supply the bearings and get the LBS to do it, but I don’t want the warranty voided because I’m planning on hanging onto this bike for another couple of years at least. It’s a great bike.

Creaking could just be an indication that the pivots need a clean & re-grease, rather than replacing all the bearings.

That’s probably it. Never had to do it before, so just need to have a look at how it’s done.

Do they need special grease or anything like that? Was talking to a lad here who owns a Santa Cruz and he’s saying they get special grease guns and marine grade grease and whatnot for them. Sounds a bit overcomplicated.

i have the am (11/12 model)
i had a proper squeak after one ride, and when i checked i noticed on one of the pivots on the rocker arm, that the round cap what covers the bearings had worn down to a half moon !! and that the bearings had just collasped inside. after contacting customer services ( who were brilliant by the way) they agreed to pick the bike up and replace the bearings for me foc. THEN i get an email saying that they are replacing the whole of the rear rocker arm, again foc

well happy with the service and how they dealt with it. bike was away for only 9 days also 🙂

As noted on other threads on the STW massive (brain the size of a planet), I found little sign of grease in the bearings so packed my new one with the stuff (Park PolyLube if I recall). I had to escalate this to Canyon but got first a bearing kit then a new frame FOC so felt well supported in end, like @skeets.

Hope those assembly dwgs help.

I did attempt mine myself and gave up / ran out of time when it came to removing the main chainstay (BB) one. In the end I just forced grease through and hope that helps somewhat.

All the others were replaced and are standard sizes – easily available. The ones in the worst condition where the rear chainstay pivots (nearest the QR) – theres two on both sides which were just rust dust inside.

If anyone can explain how to get the main chainstay ones out – I’d be most grateful.

#Edit: I found this useful:
http://www.canyon.com/downloads/supportcenter/nerve_xc_11.pdf

couldashouldawoulda

It was a reet pig at first as the assembly was not to the dwg as L & R sides were swapped, but managed it with blind bearing pullers, circlip pliers and small chisel (and a hammer….funny that). Its a blur now..

Found the right spherical bearing parts at Simply Bearings but than got new set FOC.
From Canyon assy dwg 2012:
Use the following bearing
– GE8C of JNK (Japan)(original bearing)
– GE8-UK of FAG (DE) (Canyon# A1011364)

So £9.80
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p60117/GE8C+SKF+Spherical+Plain+Bearing/product_info.html

I should add as a PSA that I think the misassembly of the lower drive side BB bearing insert/sleeves contributed on my bike to the early bearing failure and play and that to the chainstay crack…… so you might want to check that pivot spot.

Thanks mrelectric! That was quick.

Some follow up Q’s if that’s ok.

So to remove they are then pushed from the opposite side with the chisel? It seemed like a bad idea to me at the time for some reason.

I’ve got a bearing puller, but its the destructive kind (whack a “fake” ball into the race, twist then engage the pulling mech). This didnt seem right either for some reason in the spherical bearing.

#Edit – just seen your second post there. That doesnt sound good!