Before i turn a what should be an easy job into a nightmare, does anyone know if the shifter cable outer runs all the way through the bike so its a straight pull out then thread new one in till it pops out of the bike at the rear mech?

Or is it stupidly routed with only partial outer and motor drop to get at and rethread? The pipe join from the down tube to the chainstays is making me nervous!

Not quite the answer, but my Orbea Occam is a single run of inner and outer all the way through.
As you say, near the BB it goes through another slightly bigger outer sleeve.

Sounds promising and similar design. Thanks. Might just raid my daughters knitting kit and find some thread to tape to the end just in case!

Are you replacing the outer?

Use the original one to pull the new one through with, a small screw with the head cut off to join should do it. If it’s just the inner then should should go straight through.

Beware that if you mess it up and have to drop the motor you’ll need the tool to remove the chainring with.

I just pulled a brake hose through like this with no drama. I unplugged the rubber pipe that the cables run through and did it in 2 stages.

P.67 here shows it as one piece https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ai1MND50GmRyhut5nRI61n_zDJzewA

It is a straight run but it’s a very tight fit so you need to give it a good strong pull (stop sniggering) to get it out. A spray of silicone lube helps with extraction.

It’s a full length outer but things get a bit tight around the motor so you might struggle to pull the new one through.

Worst case, removing the motor isn’t that big a job really. The chainring obscures one of the bolts though so you’ll need a tool to get it off.

I bought a Park Tool Lrt-2. Some reviews of the cheaper ones say they’re too fat (externally) to fit into the recess.

One piece outer, it will pull out without damage but there’s a ‘hoop’ of carbon it passes under near the head tube. You can get at this by dropping the forks. I doubt you’d get a new outer through without using the old as a draw wire, it’s very tight under the battery.

I wouldn’t expect it to just pop out of the port in near the headtube if it’s the same as the occam because the foam tubes that house the outers aren’t fixed in place. When re-routing a brake hose I had to remove the cable port cover and fish the hose out with a tool, which was only possible with the fork off so I could see inside the frame.

Guess it might be different though with a big battery filling the space!

Mine didn’t have any foam tubes from factory. It does now though!

If it’s anything like the Wild Fs it’s a full cable that runs down the motor and those wee joining hoses from rear triangle to front end are proper tight
I bought a couple of those wee red reverb barbs and I done my cable in minutes
Just make sure to push and pull slowly and gently

Ive replaced brakes on our two and dropper cables. I’d be amazed if you can do it without dropping motor and removing the battery. The cables aren’t sleeved and effectively are stopped from moving or rattling by being jammed tight against the battery. Angles are tight around the little tubes that run to the rear stays as well.

Planning on changing just the inner and leaving outer well alone. Didnt make myself very clear! Outer is only 3 months so hoping to be good for ages yet.

So if i’m reading above right the inner should come out relatively easily and new one slot in with a bit of lube but its the outer replacement thats aching of the round things?!

Outer is only 3 months so hoping to be good for ages yet. My hatred of shimano mech & shifter is not going away so sram replacement going on.

Just recently done this on my Orbea Rise changing the Shimano slx shifter to a Sram one. The inner cable was a bit tight at one point but judicious use of some pliers to get a better grip on the cable and only advancing a small amount each time got it past the tight spot.

@silasgreenback

Planning on changing just the inner and leaving outer well alone

Yes, it’s completely conventional cable outers running from shifter to mech. If there are any tight spots where the inner won’t run through the shiftings going to be poor so would suggest somethings got pulled or squeezed.

If you can find them to buy, I reckon these Elvedes cables are the best I’ve used. more strands so more flexible – really good if your routing has any tight bends (particularly good for dropper posts)