Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
  • Cable drag on internal routed WhyteS120
  • Premier Icon rafrider
    Subscriber

    Been riding my S120 for a couple of months now and finding the cables to rear mech and dropper really draggy. To the point where the dropper would sometimes stick “open” or require the lever to be pushed back and whilst the shifting is accurate it requires noticeably more pressure at the shifter than my other eagle equipped bike.
    Put new coated cables in but little improvement on the shifting, dropper bit better.

    Is this the norm now for internally route bikes due to the full outer and what is probably fairly torturous routing through the frame?

    Premier Icon rockthreegozy
    Subscriber

    Some of the dub bb equipped Whyte bikes seem to have cable issues in the shell. Not enough space so seems to be additional friction, GXP setup is meant to help. Not sure if this applies to the 120 mind..

    Not sure if your on FB but the Whyte owners page is reasonably active..

    mashr
    Member

    Nope this isn’t normal, more likely there’s a kink somewhere in the down tube. I’ve got a g160, both cables work exactly as they should

    Premier Icon timbog160
    Subscriber

    G170 here and no problems with cable drag when I was running cables. Could also do what I did and replace both with AXS..!

    Premier Icon rafrider
    Subscriber

    Its DUBB but cables root out the bottom of down tube and re-enter the stays to bypass the BB.
    I’ll pull it through and have a check over the wkend.
    Thanks guys

    coatesy
    Member

    If i’m honest, i’ve never been happy with coated cables, we’ve often found them to feel draggy, and sometimes find the coating seperates and clogs the outer. If we build a bike that’s a nightmare to replace cables on(step forward Trek Madone), we’ll replace the enners with slick stainless before we start. Another thing to consider, you haven’t mentioned whether you’ve changed the outers, if you haven’t, then most of the time you’ll be pi**ing into the wind, as that’s often a big part of the problem you’re trying to fix. Shimano SP41 outers with sealed SP4 end caps, and a slick 1.1mm stainless inner from the likes of YPK or Elvedes (though others may work as well) are all we’ll ever use in our workshop.

    mashr
    Member

    TBF, his bikes 2 months old, he shouldn’t have had to change anything yet

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)

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