I’m installing a new door frame in a stone outhouse. It doesn’t need to be perfect but…
I’ve test-fitted the sides of the door frame to see how straight the walls aren’t. The right-hand side is OK but there’s a large gap on the left-hand side.
The top stones on the left are loose; cementing them in place should lift them to meet the roof and fill the gap at the top.
But what do I do about the gap between the frame and the wall?
Cementing sounds messy? Or do I cement and add some timber to the back first? Or something else ie. get a tradesman in?
Edit to add: the sides are plumb, it’s just the angle of the photo that makes it look as if they aren’t.
@perchypanther Had never heard of that but it sounds ideal. However, reading the usage instructions gave me a bit of a headache, sounds more like a job for a builder?
Well you could use an expanding foam with controlled expansion like Everbuild Dryfix (wet the surfaces first for better adhesion). When dry, trim flush with a multitool, breadknife or old saw then use premixed trowel applied mastic over it(mastic trowel makes this much easier).
From advice above (thanks all) and after much YouTubing (YouTubeing? ‘time spent watching relevant videos on t’interwebs’?) it looks like simple mortar is the way to go. Maybe some expandy stuff to provide a rear anchor in the gap. Mainly so that I’m not sat pushing mortar through a hole until the end of time.
DIY is so simple until it goes wrong. I look forward to heeding advice and promptly screwing it all up.
Save your money not using the foam gun , don’t try to complete in one . Wedge the stones with wedges so all beds and joints look similar size , carefully push in some “fatty” mixed mortar in all the gaps not being too greedy
Let it go off , take the wedges out, fill out to half inch from the face
Next time point up carefully, remember to use tiny drop of plasticiser or squeezy if you don’t have it to make the mix fatty or lime if you have some at hand, make sure it’s a good drying day not easy at this time of year
Next to the wood either use the trowelling mastic or cut a line with your trowel/ pointing key and when dry a bead of silicone to seal the crack
Tools required a flat 10mm pointing key and a hawk (300×300 bit of ply screwed to a handle) no wild bird of prey