Remember this thread, http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/the-front-of-my-house-just-fell-off-too ?
The timber framework is more or less finished now and the roof’s on with one layer of felt.
Next stage is the cladding.

500 linear metres of dual purpose shiplap/matchboard.

Part of the framework showing the main 150×50 structural timbers with a 38×19 horizontal lath to support the vertical matchboarding.
You can see the two routing jigs here too.

I’ve started collecting doors off ebay and freecycle, a worktop out of a skip and a bed off ebay.

One potential problem is that the matchboarding is soaking wet as delivered.
I’ve got it under cover with bearers to allow air flow, but I’m not expecting it to dry out properly before next summer.
When I built my shed I only tacked the shiplap on. A few months later, when it had dried, the boards had all shrunk.
I pulled the boards off again and closed all the gaps up before nailing them back on.
You can see how much they had shrunk here. There’s about 25mm difference over 2m.

I’ll probably do the same with the matchboards on the bungalow. I’ve got nowhere warm and dry I can store 80+ 6m lengths of timber, so I’ll tack it all on for now, then nail it properly next year.

I like the fact you’re building in slots to fire arrows at those besieging you from.

I like the fact you’re building in slots to fire arrows at those besieging you from

After the problems he had last time with enemy sappers undermining his house he’s taking no chances. Or prisoners 😡

Arrow loop in use as a router guide.

Horizontal laths fitted in the routed slots.

So is the plan to build the frame around the existing house, clad the frame, then knock the existing walls down?

What’s the lath for??

There’s strange rules apply to these wooden bungalows in the Wyre Forest.
I’m allowed to build a “self supporting cladding” around the existing walls, but I’m not allowed to knock the old building down afterwards.
So I won’t be doing that. No. Absolutely not.

I’m cladding it with vertical matchboards, the laths are there to support them.

I’m cladding it with vertical matchboards

Make sure you take the heads off, unlike this fool – it’s going to end in tears for him

I’m impressed.

There’s strange rules apply to these wooden bungalows in the Wyre Forest.
I’m allowed to build a “self supporting cladding” around the existing walls, but I’m not allowed to knock the old building down afterwards.
So I won’t be doing that. No. Absolutely not.

I assume all your neighbours also have their old buildings still standing inside their new ones? 😉

Is match board suitable when used vertical?

It seems a strange way to fit timber cladding?
We do quite a lot at work but not like that. Are BC involved?

A good ‘matchboard’ (pmvj) can be used vertically whereas a ‘shiplap’ profile is better used horizontally (e.g. look at sheds, door vertical pmvj, cladding horizontal shiplap). Plus I imagine MTG will be using a breathable dpm behind it.

I know you’ve got the materials now but a long tongue on the matchboard is well worthwhile to stop the boards opening up with shrinkage and yes, you are right to allow the boards to dry before final fixing (I guess they have been pressure treated which will take a while to dry).

Looking good, you can stand back and admire your graft 8)

Not meaning to take anything away from mtg’s handy work but I wouldn’t personally use matchboard vertically, I would certainly use a breathable roofing felt behind as you stated. One thing though there’s gonna be a hell of a lot of bounce on those laths when nailing the boards between the main studs. I’d be looking at using a 2nd fix nail gun.

The boards on the shed shrunk by about 25mm over 2m. The bungalow is 8m wide, so I’m expecting to lose a whole board to shrinkage over that distance. I’m using vertical boards just because I like the look of them.
I’ve got a roll of Tyvek Housewrap to go behind them.

The main studs are 145×45 at 450mm centres, the laths are 19×38 at 550mm centres and the boards are 25×125 (19mm finish thickness).
I did wonder about using 25×50 laths, but I’ve only got a 1/4″ router and it’s taking three cuts now to get the 19mm depth.
I did a bit of a trial run and it seems solid enough. I’ll start tacking a few boards on and if it seems too bouncy, I’ll go for bigger laths.

MTG – Ive got most of a roll spare of tyvek if you need any more of it and you find yourself coming down to the other end of the county sometime.

Wrighty’s just being a spoil as you’re not using concrete formwork 😈

Hey, Wrighty!, I found your section in the tech college library last week
Who’d have thought there was an “Institute of Concrete Technology”? 😉 😯