• This topic has 38 replies, 20 voices, and was last updated 2 months ago by nuke.
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  • Builders/decorators – painting old exterior wood?
  • Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    Hello

    I need to paint some very old, tired and probably knackered wood fascia board type things on the side of our house. I don’t expect to get a great finish but am wondering how to achieve what I can without replacing them?

    – Presumably I need to wirebrush / sand down?
    – Should I use a primer
    – Will it just look terrible where the old paint has flaked off?
    – any recommendations for cheap ish external paint?

    (images below if they embded)

    FB2-A5880-795-A-420-C-83-D6-A71-CE815-FBD9

    E49-F3278-4970-446-E-8-AFC-0-BFED2337-A02

    Many thanks

    Premier Icon finbar
    Free Member

    I’ve just done this exact thing on my wooden roof fascias which date from 1911 (the scaffolding is still up in fact).

    I did:

    1. Sand down with 60/80 grit, getting all unsound paint off (but not back to bare wood everywhere);
    2. Couple of sloshings (not really coats) of Sikaguard on any exposed wood;
    3. Toupret murex external filler on gaps/holes from removed rotten bits (fortunately hardly any in my case);
    4. 1 coat Leyland trade primer;
    5. 1 coat Leyland trade undercoat;
    6. 2/3 coats Leyland trade gloss.

    Took bloody ages (sorry…), but it looks super smart now.

    Premier Icon tomd
    Full Member

    If there are any rotten / soft bits you can fix them with rotten wood hardener which works a treat, then fill any damage and paint.

    I had some badly rotten exterior frames that I used this on, then filled and sanded before painting with primer and dulux exterior. lasted really well and looked good.

    Did it in summer though when wood was nice n dry.

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    ^^ Thanks

    Ummm, I was thinking (hoping) for a quick Saturday morning slosh about with two tins max 🙂

    Hypothetically, if someone was say a “mature” student , skint and very short of time…. what would be a good compromise, hypothetically?

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    (I should probably point out that I don’t want to spend a fortune as we hope to move within 18 months)

    Premier Icon wbo
    Free Member

    Based on painting a few wooden houses

    – Presumably I need to wirebrush / sand down? – jetwash
    – Should I use a primer – I never have, not normal
    – Will it just look terrible where the old paint has flaked off? – not if you jetwash properly
    – any recommendations for cheap ish external paint? – yes, spend money and buy something decent like Jotun Nordic extreme

    Premier Icon FB-ATB
    Full Member

    1911 (the scaffolding is still up in fact).

    That’s a long time to leave the scaffolding up!

    Premier Icon joshvegas
    Free Member

    You have to remove the flaky paint or it will be really really obvious. Attack it with a scraper, then attack it with some sandpaper.

    It’s not a big area and will be quicker than sloshing it on and realising it looks shit and doing it anyway.

    Or attack it with a wire brush and leave it distressed.

    Premier Icon FB-ATB
    Full Member

    (I should probably point out that I don’t want to spend a fortune as we hope to move within 18 months)
    Leave it till just before you have viewwings?

    Presumably I need to wirebrush / sand down? – jetwash

    I thought jetwashing was not ideal on wood?

    Premier Icon nickjb
    Free Member

    Depends how smart you want it to look and more importantly from how far away. We’ve got some very rough timber that will need replacing but I’m not ready to do that yet. I just brushed off the loose bits and put some Dulux weathershield on. Still looks a little rough up close but looks very smart from more than a few meters away. Several neighbours have commented how good it looks. Took two coats, 12 hours between coats, but didn’t take long to do.

    Premier Icon finbar
    Free Member

    Jetwashing then painting at this time of year might be risky if there’s much bare wood getting exposed, as you’ll properly soak it inside. Maybe if it’s always that sunny where you are you’ll be okay though.

    That’s a long time to leave the scaffolding up!

    😀 Sadly based on my scaffolder it probably will still be there in 2111…

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    Hmm, re jetwashing – it would be easier certainly but yeah I’m a bit worried about filling the void above the porch ceiling with water, I don’t think there’s anything behind the wood at all..

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    re costsaving, would it be better to use a primer or undercoat (if not using both)?

    Premier Icon finbar
    Free Member

    Primer creates something for the paint to adhere to, then undercoat makes it nice and flat and smooth. I’d go primer as that’s most important for durability.

    Premier Icon johndoh
    Free Member

    I had a similar task to do last year (repainting a load of mock-Georgian wood panelling) and I was recommended Zinsser All Coat by my local decorators’ supplies shop – I wanted something that was quick and easy to apply as it was all high work and I didn’t want to spend days and days faffing at the top of house ladders.

    It went on well and has lasted surprisingly well considering all I did was brush off all the loose and flaking paint and slap it on.

    Looking at your job, with this paint it would be no more than a couple of hours from putting the ladders up to cleaning the brushes (especially as you only want a short-term fix).

    Premier Icon wzzzz
    Free Member

    Quick and easy?

    flick the diagonal board off and nail this stuff on top.

    https://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/fibre-cement-exterior-wall-cladding-light-grey-3660mm-x-210mm-x-8mm?utm_medium=organic&utm_source=shopping

    If you are otherwise buying expensive paint there might not be much in it, and it will be done in a couple of hours.

    Premier Icon pk13
    Free Member

    No such thing as cost over time saved. Sorry

    It won’t dry now unless you put some acceleration type product in
    Cheapest wire brush
    Stiff paint scraper not filler knife
    2 part filler
    Sandpaper 60 grit 80 grit

    Undercoat
    Then weather sheild will give you 2 years.
    I would burn it off tbh less faff in the long run and your fingers will be toasty warm. Oh and PPE

    Premier Icon footflaps
    Full Member

    – Presumably I need to wirebrush / sand down? – jetwash

    If you filled the jetwash with paint, you could do it all in one hit 😉

    Premier Icon halifaxpete
    Full Member

    Done loads like that. I use a shave hook on the flaky paint, good rub down with some 80 grit, spot prime the bare, 2 pack filler if needed then exterior undercoat/gloss (tend to use Dulux weathershield and never had any problems)

    Premier Icon jambourgie
    Free Member

    2/3 coats Leyland trade gloss.

    Three coats of gloss! Wow. Structural painting 😉

    Premier Icon csb
    Full Member

    Trouble with your bodge is that in 18 months it will look shit at the time you want to sell. So you’ll end up redoing it.
    I’d sand it, ronseal wood harden the soft bits, zinnser 123 white it all, then white gloss it. Might need a 2nd white gloss coat.

    Good for 3 years.

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    and I was recommended Zinsser All Coat by my local decorators’ supplies shop

    Hmmm, that looks like it could be thing worth looking at…..

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    flick the diagonal board off and nail this stuff on top.

    If I was a bit better at these things I’d consider that. The issue I have is that the wood continues round the gutter above the garage door at the front of the house and I’m not confident I wouldn’t entirely flip the whole thing up..

    Premier Icon finbar
    Free Member

    Three coats of gloss! Wow. Structural painting 😉

    Haha, mine is four stories up so I really don’t want to be doing it again in 18 months…!

    Premier Icon chickenman
    Full Member

    If I had a pound for every old window I’ve seen that’s rotted away underneath coats of gloss paint!
    Sadolin Superdec works well and is self undercoating. It’s an opaque stain really so doesn’t have the build that gloss does but I think is much more forgiving on old wood.

    Premier Icon Jakester
    Free Member

    and I was recommended Zinsser All Coat by my local decorators’ supplies shop

    Hmmm, that looks like it could be thing worth looking at…..

    Just as a counterpoint to this, I used this stuff on window frames after it was recommended on here and it was shit – needed completely redoing after one winter. Seems like a total false economy to me, I’d have been better off using a ‘normal’ system product.

    Premier Icon lambchop
    Free Member

    Zinsser all coat all the way. I use it where I work a lot and it lasts.

    Premier Icon johndoh
    Free Member

    Just as a counterpoint to this, I used this stuff on window frames after it was recommended on here and it was shit – needed completely redoing after one winter. Seems like a total false economy to me, I’d have been better off using a ‘normal’ system product.

    No doubt a properly prepared surface subsequently painted with trade exterior gloss will last much longer but I recommended it based on the OPs requirements for something quick and easy for a short-term fix. 😛

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    Soooo

    I *may* have not got round to this yet. The weather seems to have turned a bit…

    Have I any chance at all of getting it sanded back, painted and dried or shall I wait until the spring?!

    Many thanks

    Premier Icon csb
    Full Member

    Too cold now I’d think?

    Premier Icon johndoh
    Free Member

    Does it matter? You haven’t taken any of our very varied advice yet so just do what you are gonna / not gonna do.

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    Does it matter? You haven’t taken any of our very varied advice yet so just do what you are gonna / not gonna do.

    U OK Hun?

    I’ll have you know that I still have a tab open on my phone for Zinsser all coat..

    I should have sorted it by now yes but mini RRR V3.0 is due next week so Mrs RRR thought I should have other “priorities” 😐

    Premier Icon willjones
    Full Member

    Didn’t realise cement board was that cheap – I’d be going down that route given relatively small area and cost of decent paint. Using saws and hammers is way more fun than painting too.

    Premier Icon johndoh
    Free Member

    U OK Hun?

    Sorry – I should have added a 😉

    😉

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    😉

    Ahhh, much better thanks!😃

    Yeah, I’m also wondering whether I should attempt the cement board thing in the spring / summer. It might actually be a bit quicker although I’d have to force myself to grapple with a circular saw….

    Premier Icon RopeyReignRider
    Free Member

    * although not from the linked supplier as delivery is £80 on a £40 order 😳

    Premier Icon cp
    Full Member

    Have I any chance at all of getting it sanded back, painted and dried or shall I wait until the spring?!

    If doing it now I’d use the Zinsser solvent based paint which has a 5 degree application temperature.

    https://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.uk/zinsser-allcoat-exterior-satin-finish-solvent-based?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7qTq0v_98wIViP93Ch23tgygEAAYASAAEgK2gPD_BwE

    Premier Icon jkomo
    Full Member

    I have a similar job which I’ve waited all summer to do.

    Premier Icon nuke
    Full Member

    Just moved into a old house and sill of sash window has a rotten crack that’s letting in water…water marks visible internally. Given the time of year, id prefer to fix it properly in the spring but what would be a good temporary fix for now? I’ve got some trowel mastic but wondering if anything better that isn’t going to make repairing next year a right mare

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