brilliant white gloss paint
I’ve recently glossed the upstairs of my house and whilst it hasn’t “yellowed”, it has significantly dulled after 3 months. I don’t hold much hope for the next 3 months.
That was using Wickes solvent undercoat and Dulux high-gloss trade.
I hear that Dulux diamond gloss is meant to be pretty good, but its too late for me.Posted 4 years agojustinbieberSubscriber
Had it happen to us in a bad way with Dulux Satinwood White. Went cream in a matter of months.
Took up a claim with Dulux and got about £350 compensation and 5 litres of paint.
We were recommended to go for a water based paint as these apparently don’t yellow with age.Posted 4 years agojonbaMember
You cannot say that all water based will not yellow and all solvent based ones will (FWIW the resins in both are probably oil based). The reasons for yellowing are far more complex.
There was definitely a problem with dulux white gloss. It did yellow. However, this problem has since been fixed. There is a statement on the website. I think that you need the tins with the blue lids. The dodgy stuff (with white lids was recalled).
I have used both in my house and some has yellowed and the more recent stuff hasn’tI believe this issue was related solely to Dulux solvent borne gloss as the issue was with something they did to meet the change in VOC legislation.
I don’t like water based as it is generally harder to apply and doesn’t give as good a finish.
I work in paint, for the company that own dulux, but don’t deal with this type of product. All views are my own and come from experience of using the stuff in my own house. I have also formulated paints but generally 2k stuff for the indutrial market.Posted 4 years agoandylMember
I am not clued up on domestic decorative paints but if it’s anything like urethane coatings than the old solvent based stuff will be aromatic and hence yellows. Water based stuff is generally a much more stable chemistry and won’t yellow.
I think a lot of the “water based doesnt go on as nice” comments come from people who are used to the old solvent based products. Personally I used to hate gloss and much prefer water based products. The mechanical performance of the water based stuff is getting significantly better and for varnish i won’t touch solvent based PU these days. Too smelly and yellows. Water based goes on well and can be very tough.Posted 4 years agoflip456Member
Personally I won’t use water based paints for wood work. In my experience they cover poorly and are difficult to achieve a decent finish with. Lately we’ve been using crown and gliden oil based undercoat and satin or eggshell top coat. Flats out nicely giving good results unlike water based products. Decent brushes are also key, try purdy sprigg elites 🙂Posted 4 years ago
Sorry not a fan of f and b either, over priced, poor coverage etc.ThrustyjustMember
Painted 13 doors ( both sides = 26 sides) and frames, skirting boards and other woodwork, like stairs with Dulux non drip gloss a couple of years ago. This was one of their untested paints they released to the general public. This went cream coloured in 6 months. The whole house !! Took a claim with Dulux. They wouldn’t pay to have the house redone, but supplied me with £500 of paint vouchers we used at the local Brewers paint suppliers ( still got loads of it) and was their diamond white acrylic and £350 iirc in a cheque . Would have preferred them paying a decorator to redone it all, as was a ball ache to do it twice in a year.Posted 4 years ago
If I didn’t use the free paint, then a website for decorating (Ultimate Handyman) seem to think the Johnstone paint is the best and this is from decorators in the trade.SpongebobMember
Spent a few years painting full time and many more in DIY mode.
1st off, why does anyone still use gloss paint indoors? It went out of fashion in the 80’s. only ever use the stuff on exterior woodwork (an exterior variant).
As for Dulux, had many bad experiences with this – satinwood and gloss oil based. Very thick consistency and rubbish opacity. How do they make such inferior paint that is so difficult to apply with good results!?! 3 coats on a white primed base before it looked acceptable – complete waste of my time waiting at least 24hrs between coats!
I’ve tried satinwood waterbased and it never flows, so you always end up with brush marks that spoil the end result.
My recommendation is for an oil based satinwood/eggshell by Johnstones – fantastic stuff, used many dozens of 2.5l tins of the stuff. It’s good to recoat within 4 hours in warmmish ambient temperatures. This makes this competitively priced paint far more commercially viable when on a price! Can’t be doing with wasting endless days waiting for inferior paint to dry, especially when you need an extra coat of the stuff to achieve results easily attainable with trade paint!
I once reluctantly tried a water based woodwork paint designed to refinish kitchen doors. A small tin of this Crown kitchen paint passed the light scrape fingernail test when freshly dried with flying colours. So my opinion of water based paints then changed, but this small time was 5 times the price of what I used most of the time..
Washable matt paint was good to apply as well. First coat gets absorbed, thinking you haven’t enough for the second coat. The second coat goes miles as the first coat absorbs next to no moisture.
I think for heavy traffic, oil based paints win hands down. Yellowing is unavoidable, but I find the eggshell and satinwood finishes less susceptible.Posted 4 years ago
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