Only ever tried a Bike Yoke Revive (which is fantastic), but they’re £200 more expensive.

Brand X ok?

Lots of people swear by them but mine lasted a year before it developed a load of play in it, it’s still usable and I guess you get what you pay for. I have a One Up dropper that’s been faultless and they don’t cost too much more. I’d maybe consider the PNW dropper as well if I was looking for a new one.

Pretty reliable, the cable needs replacing fairly regularly if you ride in crap conditions and they can have a bit of play in them from new, but it tends not to get worse. You can get them new for sub £100 if you look around

Fantastic bit of kit with great customer service if needed.

Yeah they’re pretty good.

You can spend silly amounts on an uppy downy post, but I really don’t think that you get significantly better quality/performance for the extra cost over the Brand X ones.

I’ve had mine on for about a year now, transporting my bulk through the slop of the Lancs moors and its been faultless. Miles better than the absolutely awful, yet more expensive X-Fusion Hi-lo it replaced, which blew its seals as soon as you looked at it.

It has a slight bit of sideways play but you never notice it when you’re riding

Really very good in their own right.

Notwithstanding the sub-£100 price.

New lever perfectly decent too.

A great example of more for less.

Yes, had mine for 2 years including in slop and filth, and still works faultlessly. For the money, I don’t think theres much better

I’ve got two Brand X dropper posts.

First one is nearly 2 years old and I’ve ridden it for over 500km and it recently developed excessive rotational play that you could feel when riding. CRC gave me a refund in vouchers and let me keep the post. It still goes up and down ok just has a lot of wobble. Also it had the original type 1x lever, it broke about two months ago, replaced it with a ZTTO lever from Ebay.

Second post is one year old with the new style improved lever. Done around 1000km on this post and it’s wobble free.

Annoyingly the my my newer post is longer than the old one so won’t work in my Giant Reign or Trance frame because of the pivot through the seat tube. When the older Brand X finally dies I’ll probably buy a One Up.

After running Specialized Command posts since the first came out which have been faultless I was a bit dubious as to changing just to get the extra travel for the steep downhills. The Specialized ones only go to 125mm and ideally wanted 170mm
We are running them on four bikes using the existing Command levers and have been pleasantly surprised on the reliability of them.
Our daughter has competed all season in Enduro and its not let her down
Not keen on having to remove the seat to check the air pressure.

Thanks folks.

Brand X it is then.

Cheapest Ive seen is £130 (30.9 – 150mm) – unless you know different??

Dont forget £10 off CRC with ‘new’ account.

Get £10 off your first order and be the first to hear about our latest offers, news & promotions. £50 minimum spend required. New customers only.

dogbone

Subscriber
Dont forget £10 off CRC with ‘new’ account.
Get £10 off your first order and be the first to hear about our latest offers, news & promotions. £50 minimum spend required. New customers only.

Cheers dogbone. Existing customer 🙂

** runs off to uncover an alter ego

2 posts here too and in the two years I’ve had them, they’ve been fine.

Only 120mm and no lever included, but same post rebranded – https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333346940671

Start fitness fire out discount codes all the time if you sign up to their email

I’ve got 2 of the brand x droppers – a 120 and a 150. Both are pretty good – the 120 is 2.5 years old and the 150 around a year old.

They both have had a little bit of rotational play from new but generally not so you’d notice when riding. I’ve just started to notice the 120 play a little when riding – so thinking about either getting new brass keys inside it – or I might upgrade to a longer dropper.

Longer one with either be a 150 brand x or a 170 One up and see how long I can get away with running it (but may need to shim it down 10mm or so).

start fitness sometimes have them cheap

I paid £89.99 for the new style remote 150mm drop in a 30.9 in June this year

Have been on a good few sloppy rides (I run a mudhugger). I’m sure the return is slowing and sometimes the last cm of rise is elusive but it might be in my head. I cleaned the top seal (unscrew and slide up) and it was clean in there, but I need to take my seat off and check the pressure.

It replaced a KS lev and has more wobble than the KS but you don’t ever notice it when riding.

Had mine for 2 years. I’ve done nothing except change the cable once. There’s a little bit of wobble, but it’s not noticeable when riding.

The Oneup might be slightly better, but it’s usually at least 50% more expensive.

JP

I’ve got two, one internal one external and have been great.
The only problem I have had is with the cable freezing when it’s really cold.

@wzzzz

You need to top up the air pressure mate. There is a valve under a rubber cap at the very top of the post.

You need to top up the air pressure mate. There is a valve under a rubber cap at the very top of the post.

For future reference what should the pressure be?

150psi max.

My two have been way better than anything rockshok made …

Only the older version has an air valve at the top of the saddle, the newer ones don’t.

Great posts and no issue with mine.

Only 120mm and no lever included, but same post rebranded – https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333346940671

Good spot @guandax – anyone know if the external routing version appears as something else on ebay?

The Tranz-X posts are the same as the Brand-X ones I believe.

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/SPBAASP/tranzx-dropper-seatpost

Does it use a standard brake cable to attach at the post end? Realized my canyon one from ebay didn’t come with the barrel bolt shown in the instructions so I’m hoping it’s just a normal gear cable fitting when used with the ZTTO lever?

I bought one this time last year. now done 6,200km of riding Brand X droppers. One of them started to fail to return to full height, Chain Reaction sent a new one out under warranty immediately.

To me, if I can get 2 years without spending anything else, that’s not bad for the £120 I paid for it.

if I can get 2 years without spending anything else, that’s not bad for the £120 I paid for it.

This.

Performance is perfectly adequate, although not as nice as my previous Fox Transfers, but all it has to do is go up and down without failing. There has been rotational play in every dropper I’ve ever had, and whilst there was a tiny bit more in the brand X when new, it’s worn in to have the same, but no more than any of the more Gucci posts I’ve had in the past.

Plus the sliding parts are user serviceable and cheap. An entire bush, key and seal kit cost me 16 quid a while back. At that price it just sits in my spares box waiting to be useful.

Happy with mine

Only the older version has an air valve at the top of the saddle, the newer ones don’t.

Interesting, is there no valve at all to top up on the new ones? I’ve had to on an old one a few times but otherwise it’s been faultless (3 years)

All the 170mm ones we have purchased, last in July this year from CRC, have the air valve on the top.

Just looked at my ebay post:

1) A brake cable doesnt fit the actuator, im going to file down the barrel on the cable, although if thats too fidly it might be easier to file out the actuator.

2) No air valve under the saddle clamp, just a nylocked nut (presumably on some internal shaft). Wonder if that means its a coil spring? The post weighs 525g without the cable or remote so not a y heavier than expected?

superstu
Interesting, is there no valve at all to top up on the new ones? I’ve had to on an old one a few times but otherwise it’s been faultless (3 years)

My post wasnt 100% correct, 170mm still have the valve, 120mm / 150mm do not.

thisisnotaspoon
1) A brake cable doesnt fit the actuator, im going to file down the barrel on the cable, although if thats too fidly it might be easier to file out the actuator.

Surely its a gear cable you should be using, not a brake cable? The head of a gear cable should fit the actuator on the post.

2) No air valve under the saddle clamp, just a nylocked nut (presumably on some internal shaft). Wonder if that means its a coil spring? The post weighs 525g without the cable or remote so not a y heavier than expected?

Probably just a sealed cartridge and the nut is holding the top of the cartridge in place.

Surely its a gear cable you should be using, not a brake cable? The head of a gear cable should fit the actuator on the post.

The full post should come with a barrel that clamps onto the cable and the ferrule end is in the remote but as im using the ztto remote i kinda assumed it might work the other way arround and the barrel is a gnats chuff smaller than a brake cable end for some reason.

In the end ive used a brake cable and just put the ferrule in the actuator, its loose but dont think it will go anywhere.

Sorry if I’ve missed it earlier up mate but why are you using a brake cable?

Just curious as I’m sure you must have a reason.

You can clamp either end of the cable in the ZTTO remote.

Look at the 2nd image here https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223537127810

Cable head into the actuator at the post and clamp the open end at the remote.

Sorry if I’ve missed it earlier up mate but why are you using a brake cable?

The actuator at the post end is designed for a cylindrical ferrule end thats a fraction smaller than a brake cable end. The posts being sold on ebay dont come with the barrel nut/bolt that would clamp onto a gear cable normally so i had assumed a brake cable would work with the ztto lever.

Turns out the barrel is slightly smaller than the end of a brake cable so the only option was to use a gear cable with the wrong ferrule shape (the little cylinder that sits in the shifter normally) on the end, but it still hooks into the actuator and shouldn’t be able to fall out once the remote lever is attached at the other end to maintain some tension.

My ascend instructions actually showed the use of a gear cable nipple in the space where a barrel nut is clearly meant to be. It looked bloody awkward and I was sure that using it like that would leave metal shavings in the frame and I didn’t like the idea of that, so I sourced a couple of barrel nuts off the ‘Bay.