Well that was a close call. Was just wheeling the new Trek outside to go for a quick spin and found that the handlebar is blocked from turning left more than about 8 degrees.

And correspondingly manages to turn right about 135 degrees!

I’m soooo lucky that I found it before riding off. Would have been very messy.

Utterly pisspooor effort from the bike shop. Really not impressed.

What’s stopping it? Short cable or something physically hitting the frame?

I’m more concerned about who or what you’re keeping in that cupboard that needs air holes…

Knock block not fitted right…..

That is poor

Cockeyed Knock-Block system?

Edit, beaten to this

Cockeyed Knock-Block system

They’re in session for Mark Riley next week I think.

That is a little poor from LBS as you’d assume it’s not their first knock-block they’ve ever sent out… that is not the best.

I’m curious, what’s causing that then?

I’m curious, what’s causing that then?

Treks ‘knock-block’ system stops the fork legs from hitting the frame. It can be aligned incorrectly so you have move allowed movement on one side than the other.

Treks ‘knock-block’ system stops the fork legs from hitting the frame. It can be aligned incorrectly so you have move allowed movement on one side than the other.

Cheers @weeksy! Next question then, is it a genuine ‘innovation’ or just a gimmick?

Next question then, is it a genuine ‘innovation’ or just a gimmick?

I think on a low-bar-height xc bike it is a good idea or the shifter/brake levers will hit the top-tube in a crash. On a Slash, I would guess the bar is higher so that is not likely to happen, unless the top-tube is high + what weeksy said about the forks.

Edit, looking at the pics, clearly the shifters/brakes have missed the top tube turning the R + the forks have cleared the down tube, so it’s not needed.

It’s the fork legs Yak. They hit the frame on the underside. They certainly did without knock-block on my Fuel EX9.8 anyway. The top of the compression adjuster. It’s also why Trek usually have a rubber protector under there.

People often fit a spacer on bottom of steerer which gives 0.5deg slacker head angle along with giving a bigger space for leeway on hitting the frame.

We should get together and introduce your Trek to my c.1974, Pashley Tourmaster Tandem. All it wants to do is turn left and I can’t figure out why. I’ve checked the frame alignment as best I can. I’ve adjusted and serviced everything I can think of, especially the headset, but it’s a constant fight to keep it in a straight line.

We could lash the two of them together, Ben Hur style, and see if we can go down a hill in a straight line. A short lived, but potentially exciting experiment!

Beagy 😉

At least you found out before a proper ride

Now you know about it, just find clockwise trails

Reminds me of the Trek I hired at Maydena. Just as I’m leaving the shop the guy I hired it from says “oh, which side do you like your brakes?” They were set up for a Canadian that had ridden it last, so he had to flip the levers. So glad I wasn’t getting off the minibus when I found out. It’s definitely not a place to have your brakes the wrong way around!

It’s the fork legs Yak. They hit the frame on the underside. They certainly did without knock-block on my Fuel EX9.8 anyway. The top of the compression adjuster. It’s also why Trek usually have a rubber protector under there.

cheers weeksy. Odd that they didn’t shape downtube to allow for that instead. Sort of like a solution to a problem that didn’t need to exist.

This is worrying, has your Trek been listening to too much of the National Conservative Confernce!

Looks green in the pic, but is it the special Blue Steel edition?

I’m more concerned about who or what you’re keeping in that cupboard that needs air holes…

it’s Hansel

Why can’t a company as big as Trek just design a frame that doesn’t need one? Most other companies have managed it

cheers weeksy. Odd that they didn’t shape downtube to allow for that instead. Sort of like a solution to a problem that didn’t need to exist.

Yup, it’s somewhat bizarre.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2nRbr1E]2022-10-06_01-57-11[/url] by Steve Weeks, on Flickr

That’s mine with the spacer, still hits the rubber.. but MAY have missed the frame… maybe.

Do you ever actually need more than 30 degrees of bar twizzle when riding?

The whole point is that the down tube is straight (‘straight shot’) for a more rigid frame blah marketing blah. I have it on my ProCaliber which does havea slammed stem as well so everything would hit the frame. Loads of people complain about it but its never botheerd me and i quite like the asthetics of a straight down tube – it does limit your stem choice though – again doesn’t bother me but does some

Do you ever actually need more than 30 degrees of bar twizzle when riding?

Mike Kazmeir on PB complained about it on testing… i never experienced any issues on required turning circle.

it’s Hansel

He’s so hot right now, hence the holes.

Do you ever actually need more than 30 degrees of bar twizzle when riding?

Depends how many unicorns you plan to hit.

Had a frog bike like this. Tab that stopped the fork rotating too far, stopped by a corresponding tab on the lower headset cup I think. That cup was in wrong.

That’s the French for ya

This is all well and good, but it doesn’t answer IHN’s concern about who or what is living in your cupboards.

Was this an LBS or posted ?

(To weeksy – if it was posted it’s obviously not an L in the BS)

I don’t think Trek post bikes to customers. All via LBS’s for proper set up….

I bought mine from Sigma. It was posted perfectly set up, just had to attatch bars and pedals and chuck sealant in – which I forgot to do leaving me with an explosive puncture on my first ride. Lucky I had a tube

I’m more concerned about who or what you’re keeping in that cupboard that needs air holes…

This is all well and good, but it doesn’t answer IHN’s concern about who or what is living in your cupboards.

“Well I guess you’re just going to have to wake him up now aren’t you? ..”

Knock block not fitted right…..

Yep. The arrow under the B of Block should be pointing to the line on the top tube.

is it a genuine ‘innovation’ or just a gimmick?

It’s a complete n9nsense on this bike. The bar controls come nowhere near the top tube and the fork is nowhere near the down tube.

about who or what is living in your cupboards.

Who-ever, or what-ever, is in there, it’s producing perfectly spherical ‘eggs’. Makes you think… 😬

Anyone else reminded of Zoolander?

Now you know about it, just find clockwise trails

At least we have a name for the bike….. ” Haggis”

This is worrying, has your Trek been listening to too much of the National Conservative Confernce!

“The Tory Haggis”

@chapaking thats matte olive by the looks of it, the smoke blue is far black’er, and i’m glad who ever set mine up knew how the knock block worked :0) just had a first ride @ lunch time

@thegeneralist, i set the suspension up based on treks calculator, felt good, think i’ll give another notch up on rebound.
820 bars are definately overkill for me and no worse than my occam on climbs for an extra kg

is it a genuine ‘innovation’ or just a gimmick?

I think it’s a band-aid for a poorly designed frame. It’s a bit like dual crown forks, if you crash and the bike lands on the front wheel, the forks hit the stop and all the force of the crash tries to rip the head tube out of the frame. Even minor incidents of dropping the bike will stress the area around the head tube so you’ll get fatigue and it will eventually crack and fail. Ripping head tubes out of frames is common with dual crown forks, I’ve had two friends do it, never seen it happen with single crown forks. The Knock Block will massively increase the stresses on the head tube in a crash.

I like the knock block, but mainly for preventing the bike from flopping over when leaning against a tree etc. Makes no diff when riding the bike. I am a bit worried about the stresses it must place on the top of the head tube/top tube in a crash, but I have had a few biggies and the thing hasn’t ripped itself out yet.

Trek warranty their frames for life. I know crash damage isn’t generally covered but I think you would have a pretty good case if the damage was the result of the knock block tearing itself out of the frame, even if it was the result of a crash.