I have several sets of hope pro2, pro4 wheels that I need to make work for a new boost frame.
I see the Lindarets and the mrp versions, but wanted to know what people are using as go-to converters.

I’m happy to dish wheels properly, but also less than convinced of the need for it to make a stronger wheel. So, either approach seems ok.

I want the adaptors to not fall out and I’m happy with some colour options.

Any suggestions or recommendations?
Ta.

I have wolftooth ones on pro 2. Seems to work fine and they don’t fall out when take the wheels out of the frame.

Don’t hope make their own?

I have a hope kit and it works well. Although I don’t think it works for the pro 2 just the evo and pro 4. No need to dish the rear as you get new adapter for both sides and a disc spacer,just the front as you Keep the disc side the same and put new spacer in the other.

Some boost frames don’t work with a non-boost chainline (may be chainring size dependent). So check that first, you may need the type of rear adapter set that only only adds space to the disc side and uses a 6mm disc spacer.

fronts are easy. Just get the Hope non-disc-side spacer and re-dish a few mil. You can upgrade to the bigger torque caps at the same time too, if that’s relevant.

So…… WolfTooth Boostinator on the rear to ensure best chainline and wheel will need a dish. Hope end cap for the front seems the simplest, with dish to wheel too.

Now, just need to find somewhere that has any WolfTooth in stock…! seem to be none.

@lardman, maybe this is what you had in mind, but anyway many folk believe the “best” chainline with a boost width back-end (like you would get with the Boostinator) is the standard non-boost one (like you would get with a non-boost crankset) – if the chainring would fit the frame. The other way round however, a non-boost cassette position and a boost chainline, is generally regarded to suck.

I would use the front Hope DS adapter and re-dish the wheel, and on the rear the hope adapters (pair DS & nds) and rotor shim with a none boost Chainset.

Just also need to check none boost chain line doesn’t foul chainstay though.

Using 3″ plus tyres and a 2x setup will need a different solution for rear.

Afaik the rear kit works fine in pro ii evo and pro iv. I’ve got a hope one in the front (pro ii) which works well. A cheapy cheap ebay special on my “specialized” front wheel which works, but not so well (liberal use of gaffer tape solved the fally offy spacers, but who wants gaffer taped wheels?). I didn’t need the rear hope kit in the end so can’t vouch for anything but it’s dust gathering qualities.

Certainly for the front, the Hope adapter works for either Pro2Evo or Pro4.

I think the OP is confused on redishing though. Redishing a Boost converted wheel does not add strength. It pulls the hub back into the bike centreline. The ‘adding strength’ bit is the different flanges and spoke angles in true Boost hubs. The added strength is pretty much Because Engineering and not really up for debate. Whether it is actually needed is a different matter and basically hinges on how hard you are on your wheels – I don’t expect it to be a real advantage for me and I’d guess ninety-something percent of riders are in the same category…

As an alternative to the boostinator (which I think is the best option if they support your hub design) there is a more universal option of the problem solvers boost kit for the rear wheel. Just a different spacer that goes outboard of your usual end cap. Reasonable price too.

Worked well with my jra wheels.

Hmmm, when you re-dish a rear wheel the flange position and spoke angles on the drive side (which is the “weak” side) are going to be the same as on a boost hub. It is only those on the non-drive side that won’t be as beneficial as on a boost hub – but there will still be a better spoke angle than on the drive side so unless you only ever shred to the right, you got a better overall wheel.

It pulls the hub back into the bike centreline.

Which iirc is actually much closer to the flange centre on a non boost hub redished than a normal (or boost) hub, so in theory there is a small benefit owing to better dishing of the wheel rather than the increased spacing of the flanges. If i remember rightly there was some debate at the launch of boost as to whether a narrower flange spacing producing a more centralised and ballanced tensioned wheel or wider spacing and more disparate dishing was better, the chap who was American classic did a bit of a (sales) piece in favor of the former.

Reality is next to no-one is likely to notice either way.