Boost standard. I’m sure it has its advantages (chain line, strength) but it’s royally buggered up my chances of getting a new bike.
Current bike is non boost but with pretty high spec parts (Dt Swiss xm1501, next r, fox 36) so I thought I’d go frame only on a 2018 Santa Cruz 5010 and transfer parts. No boost, no chance. I guess I could keep the fork and front wheel but new rear wheel and cranks are needing to be changes I take it?
I guess it will just keep happening with every new standard, forcing people to buy full bikes and sell on old ones for peanuts?

A) move on quickly and sell old bits while they still have high value.

or

B) run your old bike into the ground.

Your cranks might actually be fine. My Orbea Occam has a Boost rear and non-Boost cranks.

Learn to build wheels and fit a new hub to the rear or buy one of the many converters.

I’ve just gone from a non boost frame to a boost one. Cost me a few quid for a rear wheel boost adapter and a wheel redish. Race Face Aeffect cranks so just transferred the spacers, not sure if Next are the same, or maybe you can fit a boost offset chainring. Though if the non boost chainring clears the chain stay you’ll arguably have a better chainline anyway.

boost isn’t really new now is it. it’s been established for about 3 years, bolt thru road discs are generally 12mm x 142mm. just wait for Treks announcement on the 30th!

At best you need a boost adaptor for your rear hub, not sure on the crank might be fine

Totally agree with the OP. It’s an utter pain in the arse and I wish people wouldn’t use the word standards when actually what they mean is the exact opposite.

TBH, the fact that the industry has got away with it shows what a bunch of gear freaks mtbers are. It’s shocking.

As above, adapters are available for rear wheel, your fork will still work and you possibly won’t have to change your crank, or isn’t mega money to do so if you do.

It can be a pain, but boost isn’t a huge drama with adaptors etc.

Boost on its own hasn’t done anything. Over the past few years bikes have seen a lot of changes…carbon material, more radical geometries, innovations in suspension plartforms, changes of types of bikes people buy…morving more to the bigger enduro style bikes because carrying around a load of additional suspension travel no longer hampers you like it used to etc. A combination of all those things might have affected the demand for older used stuff….but the thing that is most likely to have affected it is the prevalence of readily available interest free credit…why on earth would you buy used when everyone can afford new these days. Also the ridiculous cost of some bikes…looking at the bigger higher end brands a frame only costs more than a whole decent mid spec branded decently spec’d bike..I think the whole notion of buying bits and building a bike is falling out of favour…people just get a complete bike. Today’s bottom of the range components are better than the mid or even top of the range components from 5 years ago.

EDIT…forgot to add you can always hold onto your gear…these things come in cycles and in a few years time when the long, low, slack geo thing has been pushed too far as it inevitably will, people will re-discover shorter, higher and more agile bikes and all that ‘old tech’ will come right back in vogue.

EDIT…forgot to add you can always hold onto your gear…these things come in cycles and in a few years time when the long, low, slack geo thing has been pushed too far as it inevitably will, people will re-discover shorter, higher and more agile bikes and all that ‘old tech’ will come right back in vogue

Has that ever actually happened? Are people paying extra for 26” stuff? That’s been ‘old’ for 5-6 years now…

Has that ever actually happened?

He’s right though, the easiest trend to predict is the one that is opposite of a current trend. Disco to Punk, loud clashy colours to muted naturals, etc.

As standards go boost is quite easy to work around – some cranks still work, keep the front wheel and fork, okay the rear wheel that needs thought, so either get new end caps/converters or re-lace onto a new hub. If buying a Santa Cruz frame £100 or less on getting your stuff to fit isn’t a big issue?

I think the whole notion of buying bits and building a bike is falling out of favour

tbf I think it was largely a UK only thing to do anyway. the US and Germany (largest market in Europe) are happy buying a new complete bike every few years or so.

It bothers me less these days, there’s been so many ‘innovations’ over the last few years that less people seem to care, especially when it comes to the width of axles and such.

Aren’t Next R cranks direct mount? The extra 3mm chainline could be solved with an offset ring easily?

Rear wheel – get an adapter or a new hub and eBay the old one, DT 240 will fetch good money.

The fork – just use it.

Mountain out of a molehill ? Well you’re trying aren’t you.

I was gonna stay non-boost in protest, but then I bit the bullet and flogged stuff while picking up some bargain forks and wheels to move over at minimal cost to change.

Annoying when you have such a good wheelset there, but just suck it up now and minimise your loss if you want a new bike.

Geometry has got to the point now where I won’t need to change frames again in a hurry, so I’m not worried about a repeat of this.

It’s Super Boost next anyway, so boost is on its way out.

Bike reviewers will soon start writing – “The frame comes with the standard Super Boost rear end spacing,” even before we can actually buy them, like they did with plus tires.

Yeah every new standard that comes out makes my bike one step closer to basically having square wheels.

And that bike was 100% bleeding edge with all the “must have” components at the time.

A 2008 model Cotic Soul.  Who’d have thought it’d be practically a Flintstones bike that would be of more interest to an archaeologist than an MTBer within 10 years?

😉

Next cinch cranks can be made boost with a ring change. Wheels are sorted with a spacer. Problems solved.

I’ll look into the spacer for the wheel.
Hopefully cranks can be solved too, I’ll have a browse.

If anyone has done either with their Dr Swiss hubs or next r cranks I’d appreciate some feedback.

Going to assume 6 bolt as centrelock can’t be spaced.

MRP do a end cap kit for the front hub (exact one depends on if you have the OS it 15mm hub version). No dishing required.

Wolftooth do the boosinator to fit the rear. This does need a redish as it moves the cassette into the correct boost position.

Assuming the next r cranks are cinch it is literally as easy as buying a boost offset ring to replace the one you have

2018 Santa Cruz 5010

I’m guessing you’re looking at a 2018 frame because the paint job devalued that vs the 2019 one?
You bought your current bike to ride, not as an investment unless you’re genuinely daft, assuming you’ve riden and enjoyed it for the last however many years you’ve got the value from it. Even if you think there should be some sort of residual value in it I’d point you to the small print on all investments:
“The value of investments or income from them may go down as well as up… If they have to be sold you may get back much less than you paid for them.”

Your specific issues are easily solved with a new chain ring and a set of spacers. It’s not an industry conspiracy to devalue your bike any more than indexed gears or qr axles etc etc.

EDIT…forgot to add you can always hold onto your gear…these things come in cycles and in a few years time when the long, low, slack geo thing has been pushed too far as it inevitably will, people will re-discover shorter, higher and more agile bikes and all that ‘old tech’ will come right back in vogue

Has that ever actually happened? Are people paying extra for 26” stuff? That’s been ‘old’ for 5-6 years now…

Yes it has.
Years ago axles were all bolted, before QR was invented. Now bolted stuff seems very fashionable again, although of course incompatible with the old stuff. Steel frames fell out favour in the 90s as ali took over, steel is very fashionable again. Rigid forks seem to be making a comeback too, although again not compatible with anything a few years old.

the 5010 v2 is old hat now anyway, it wont fit the plus tyres like the v3 version will.
and your DT swiss wheels are abit old hat as well only 25mm internals ;0)

although i’m not sold on these wide tyres, my 29er 2.3’s grip far better around wet corners than the 2.8 27+, the bruises prove it

ps. @dangeourbrain
the 2019 5010 v3 is not just a new colour, its frame is redesigned to take chunkier tyres and the rear triangle now has 2 uprights in it, oh and the head angle is a degree slacker. not that joe public would notice :0)

peter1979

I’ll look into the spacer for the wheel.
Hopefully cranks can be solved too, I’ll have a browse.

If anyone has done either with their Dr Swiss hubs or next r cranks I’d appreciate some feedback.

I’ve done it with Raceface cranks – all the Cinch (Next/Turbine/SixC) cranks work the smae way. The Raceface standard chainline is actually OK for boost, and might suit a 1×11/12 setup slightly better, so unless you have a problem with the chainring being too close to your chainstay, I’d just use the cranks as they are.

Loads of optiosn for converting wheels, but Wolf Tooth make the boostinator specifically for DT 240 hubs, so that’s probably your best option (other cheaper kits are available, but they are just loose spacers that fall out when you remve the wheel, the wolk tooth one had proper replacement end caps). You wheel will need a re-dish, but that’s a quick and cheap job for a competent bike shop.

Running non-boost cranks on my mk2 5010 just fine. Don’t let it put you off, it’s a smashing little bike.

Standards schmandards – just get a track bike and ride that – 9mm 100 front, 10mm 120 rear, 68 threaded BB are found on pretty much every track frame from the last 40 years

the 2019 5010 v3 is not just a new colour, its frame is redesigned to take chunkier tyres and the rear triangle now has 2 uprights in it, oh and the head angle is a degree slacker. not that joe public would notice :0)

In honesty it must be a rubbish time to be a bike manufacturer of any volume as slightly wider tyres and axles, slacker head angles etc devalue all your existing stock on a pretty much daily basis at the moment. At least a few years ago a change of paint scheme was enough to make it a 2019 model, now if it’s not half a degree slacker one year to the next it’s “so old skool” as to be “unrideable” unless you wipe 60% off the RRP and if sick have crowd funded a drawing of something a bit more radical your last year’s UCI DH winning bike is too conservative to ride xc on this season

OP I have done exactly this with DT hubs!

Wolftooth Boostinator for the rear 240s and MRP Better Boost for the front.

About £60 all in and an easy DIY job – 10 mins worth. Keep those nice wheels!

You’ll probably also get away with your non boost cranks too. I know I did when I moved my GX Eagle ones onto my Stumpy Evo.

Look here.

https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-GB/bike/5010/3-carbon

Wheels are sorted as above, bb is 73mm threaded so standard,chain line is 55mm so just need an offset (boost) chainring.

I’m still happily riding 9-speed on 9mm QR 110/135mm hubs with 26″ rims, threaded bottom brackets, and 27.2mm seatposts. I’d be on STX-RC if it was still around, but had to switch to Deore.

Bigger tyres, wider bars and disk brakes are the modern additions to my bikes.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not wanting to change bikes because I am a sucker for the new standards. I want to change bike because I want to change bike.
I just feel that with all these new standards all the time it makes it harder to just swap parts on to a new frame. Perhaps conspiracy is a strong word, but it’s certainly done with a thought towards making the consumer have to buy into a certain standard that will at some point (quite soon with the way the industry is going) need to change for a new standard.
Granted this only matters if you want a new frame. If you keep a bike for 10 years then no real issue unless you need to replace a broken part to find it is now obsolete.

Thanks for all the helpful info above, I’ll look into it and see if I can justify getting a new bike for my 40th in a couple of months!

miketually

Bigger tyres, wider bars and disk brakes are the modern additions to my bikes.

Dropper post belongs on that list