Hi,

I need to replace the bearings on a Bontrager Race Disc rear wheel.

I’ve got the non drive side caps off the axle and exposed the bearing – pic here ….

… but the drive side bolt is still on – pic here…

…and I can’t get it off as I can’t grip the axle without damaging the thread. How do I get the axle out (I’ve tried whacking it from the non drive side) and the freehub body off so I can access the drive side bearing?

❓

2 nuts locked together on non drive side, to crank off?

Ah good idea will try that. What happens to the axle and freehub body then?

get the drive side nut off, and it all just slides apart.

Great. Will try this eve. Thanks.

The freehub is bolted to the hub using an 11mm allen key. Freehub is non-serviceable. A Trek dealer will have a spare. There are only 2 bearings in the hub – both 60002RS. The axle has got a flange on each end. Just keep whacking the disc-side and the bearing and seal will eventually drift out without the need to undo the nuts on the cassette side.

Now I’m confused! If I whack the disc side, how can the axle and bearing come out if the freehub is still on? How can I undo the freehub without taking the drive side nuts off and the axle out so I can get the allen in?

Because the bearing is located at the outboard end of the freehub. It’s right behind that plastic seal in the 2nd photo. And note the axle is asymetric. Remember which end is which once you have taken the bearing off. Although it’s impossible to assemble it the wrong way round.

It’s very similar to the hub on p17 of this manual.

http://dl.owneriq.net/1/1f33a5db-593d-4c9e-b6bb-c76a67d0afee.pdf

Ah I see, so in the event that I needed to change the freehub, I’d still have to whack out the axle and drive side bearing.

Very useful info BigJohn, esp. the bearing details.

Right, I’m gonna bash the non drive side hard tonight so you have 7 hours left to stop me if I’ve completely misunderstood all the above!

Yup, you got it.

Unlike the 11mm allen key which I’d like to bet you haven’t got.

And make sure you put a nut on the end of the axle to protect the threads when you it it ard.

And if you need a replacement freehub, http://www.pedalon.co.uk have them for £16, and comes with an 11mm adaptor to fit your 8 mm Allen key.

Man, they don’t make this easy do they 👿

BigJohn, you were right on 2 counts – 1. Whacking it worked, and 2. Biggest allen key I have is 10mm 😆

I’m picking up some new bearings at lunchtime tomorrow (freehub is ok for now but cheers for the link MicArms, having said that it will probably fail next week when it’s all back together) then will put them in tomorrow eve. So what’s the key to getting the new bearings in? Is it;

a) tightening the bolts presses the new bearings home, or
b) hammer and a socket to seat them, or
c) something else?

This is turning into an idiot’s guide to Bonty hub overhauls! Useful for anyone searching on Google for the answer though.

Very useful for me as I really need to service my Bonty hubs and the last time I looked I couldn’t figure out how to do it! So thanks for asking the question and thanks to those who’ve replied. 😆

Root about in your socket set and get one just the right size. I’m not an engineer but it feels righter to tap the outside bearing shell than put all that sideways load through the bearing.

You can do the nuts and locknuts up quite hard on these hubs – as long as you don’t stop the bearings going round.

Oh, and wipe all those pubic hairs off the freehub before putting it back.

Useful info, any idea if the 2008-2010 Rhythm rear hubs use the same arrangement/bearings (2x60002RS) ?

Ah, just followed the link, freehub body says compatible with 2009 rhythm comp (which i have), but also have 2010 rhythm elite, any idea if its the same?

http://www.pedalon.co.uk/acatalog/race_freehub.html#aTC4015

Also anyone know how to get the 15/20mm front hubs apart, and what size bearings they use. The 9mm one i have is a threaded axle/cap, but the 15mm one the cap seems to be press fit, but cant grip it to remove

Eddy the 15mm caps should pull off quite easily, maybe a screwdriver to help it. I have just serviced my rhythm rear hub, and is different to the above arrangement. The freewheel just slid off, and it runs on an outer sealed bearing,and inner needle roller, with 2 pawls.

Lol, I have a very hairy hub 😀

Cheers lee

which rhythm’s have you got mine are 2010 elite with 15mm front (though my old bike has 08/09 spec 9mm QR Comps)

If its the same any chance you can confirm how the rear axle is removed, and what the replacement bearing specs were

Bearings replaced and hub rebuilt now.

Can’t say I fully enjoyed that tbh but it’s cheaper than a new hub. Odd thing was getting the right tightness at the end. Too tight and the axle became more difficult to turn so I’ve tightened it to the point where the nut on the drive side is just about touching the bearing.

Hopefully that’s it done for a couple of years now…

Now onto why I still have play in the rear end, even after replacing the shock bushings recently 🙁 It’s just one thing after another!

Thanks for all the help.

A bi of rear wheel steer sharpens up the handling I think.

I once had play inthe back wheel with one of those hubs. I thought it was the bearing but the freehub had come loose by about half a turn.

Just in case it helps

2010 Bontrager rhythm elite
15/20mm fronts
6805 2RS
remove disc, caps just pull off, then knock out one side with the through axle, remove bearing then use axle to knock out other side

9mm QR rears
6000 2RS non drive side
16100 2RS in shimano freehub body
6900 2RS drive side (under/behind freehub)

remove cassette and drive side lock nut 17mm and spacer cap, hit axle to knock out non drive side bearing. freehub just pulls off (gently, watch you dont take freehub support needle roller bearings with it), and can tap out its bearing from the inside once circlip is removed. Drive side bearing i tapped out with the axle through the hub.

Bugger wish I had seen this thread when I got my bearings replaced a few months back.

I rang the local Trek dealer asking if they knew if they were a cup & cone or sealed bearings system. They said they couldnt be too sure, but just bring it in and they would have a quick look.

Took the wheel in, 5 mins later the hub had new bearings in it and my wallet was £30 lighter! The mechanic said he was only charging me for the bearings… I thought £30 was steep, I certainly do now seeing as though you can get them for next to nothing online.

Oh well Chevin Cycles back on the list of not to use LBS’s again.

If they bought the bearings from trek, then thats probably about right, but its not hard to do yourself