We’re after buying an estate, petrol due to low mileage, 6k/yr. Second hand, <20,000. No HP or lease.

So I could be sensible but would something like a 2017ish 5 series tourer be total madness as a long term keeper.

Ignoring fuel charges what are the running costs like?

Your thoughts kind sirs.

V70 FTW!

Never mind the actual specific car, getting a used petrol to do 5 or so years seems reasonable. Then swap to full electric when hopefully the range and infrastructure is totally sorted.

Almost exactly this scenario is what I’m doing albeit with a 320d.  In 5-10 years I’ll be looking at electric options.

I’ve been running my petrol for the last 16 years (bought 1 year old) – little or no issues compared to diesel, and newer petrol’s are better on fuel. I don’t do enough miles to get worried about fuel consumption. Mine only does about 25 in traffic, and 40 on runs. My son’s 2015 car does high 50’s on a run, and mid 40’s on a commute.

My wife’s newer petrol is much better on fuel, but it’s not a little turbo engine though.

I’m inclined to get something a bit daft as my next car (in the next two years..) – it will be used (370Z or an Infiniti Q50S – 3.5 V6 hybrid)…..

The three GT looks quite good from a load carrying point of view too.

My son’s 2015 car does high 50’s on a run, and mid 40’s on a commute.

Hardly surprising –its a roller skate.

We’ve got a 2015 320i which we’re planning on keeping for at least another 5-6 years. We’ve had it about 1.5 years and has been reliable in that time (touch wood..). 184bhp I think which is enough in the 3 saloon. Mind the fuel economy is pretty poor.. 25-30 round the doors. 40-45 on a run. Keeping a lid on it at 70. It is the manual though and I think the 5 would probs come with the (rather excellent) 8ZF auto. Depending on what your priorities are it may be worth looking at the 6cyl petrol (540i I think at that age). Lovely motors and the fuel economy is not that much worse. Just my two penneth

2017 is when the new shape G31 came in replacing the F11 (I have a 66 plate f11, one of the last ones). Not a huge amount of differences, easiest way to spot them is integrated screen in dash (f11) vs stick up style (g31).

Petrols seem like hens teeth in the big wagons mind, as are low miles 5 series of that age – most do mega miles. All that said, a year ago I picked up my 66 plate on 15k miles so it can be done. Literally the only one with that few miles we saw though (and a diesel).

As above, you want the auto. Manual 5s exist, but no idea why! Even base spec is real nice, like a higher end 3. Been a great car, so not a mad plan of yours. Only things I’d change about mine would be I’d prefer a petrol (540 as above would be lovely…), electric folding mirrors and memory position seats would be handy. Oh and I recommend one with the smallest wheels they do (17s), no silly low pro tyres. More comfy, less kerb risk.

Didn’t cover running costs. Previous owner paid for the 5 yr service plan (one of the last before they stopped offering that) so I’ve not hit servicing costs yet. Main dealer ain’t cheap though, but find a decent independent (had a z4 before) and it was comparable to say main dealer on an old Citroen /ford I’ve had. Occasional things can be big money (air rear sus bag replacement on 5s) but not really that bad relative to car cost.

Biggest unexpected (but predictable) expense is insurance. Triple what the z4 cost, though got it down this year.

The three GT looks quite good from a load carrying point of view too.

It doesn’t look quite good from any other point of view though 🤢

Not sure how similar it is but the wife has a 2009 2L 3-series estate, 5k on the clock now and that has been very unreliable, selling it to get a Honda or a Toyota ideally.
Latest one was around £800 for a timing chain change after it skipped a tooth, and that was half the price of a main dealer, it’s a right PITA to get at.

Thx all.

You’ve not put me off the idea yet.

As said though there are not too many petrol ones, but I’m not in a rush.

On the auto/manual, I think I read all the new 5s are auto.

I got my previous Passat estate for about 4k and it lasted me 14 years. Very low running costs up until a couple of years prior to its ultimate demise. Should really have got shut after 12 years.

Been quite a few years since I owned one but my BMW servicing costs were always pretty similar to other makes at the main dealer. Some parts prices (for non service replacement bits) were eye-watering but I think that’s pretty common across the industry. Only thing I’d do in your shoes is make sure you research known issues with that specific model and decide if you could afford them or not if you were unlucky enough to have it happen on yours – unless it was a very common thing though I don’t think it would put me off.

I’ve been running my petrol for the last 16 years (bought 1 year old)

Not quite the same as you, but we will have had our petrol Mazda 3 for 13 years by next March, owned from new. Bought for £16k (it is a Sport model) and only had one unexpected bill (which Mazda paid 50% towards as it was just out of warranty) and has only covered 60k pretty faultless miles in that time. It’s now pretty well much next to worthless so we’ll just run it until it dies a terminal death.

My 2006 diesel I bought 10yrs ago for £6000 is now @ 180k … other than stuff like tyres and wiper blades etc. its basically cost me £1000 for a new clutch and DMF (being diesel) over a decade.

Its mainly (almost exclusively) used for longer trips but essentially just does what I ask of it.

Seems sensible to me – not like it’s an M5 after all.

The B48 petrol engine is really rather good. Way better than any of BMW’s previous 4-pots, anyway.

Regarding running costs, @6k miles p.a. the car will only ask for an oil change every 24 months. If you intend to keep it long term, I’d recommend an annual oil change but always be sure to use the correct/approved type.

Find the reg of a used one that fits your criteria and type that in to the BMW service website. It’ll give you the servicing requirements and local dealer costs.

A mate of mine has a 340i saloon and it’s pretty thirsty. It’s certainly not going to be more economical in a bigger car.

Isn’t the op talking about a 2 litre though?

340i is a 3.0 litre, 6 cylinder engine producing 340ish bhp.

520i is a 2.0 litre, 4 cylinder engine produce 180ish bhp.

Although they share the same basic architecture (based on the BX8 modular engine design), the extra cylinders and ponies are a little detrimental to fuel economy.

A 3 or 540i was mentioned earlier in the thread, hence my post.
I’d have one in a heartbeat, but I don’t do many miles these days.

I’ve just had a look at stated figures on fuel economy for a combined run and there is less in it than I thought.. The 335bhp 540i does 37.6mpg and the 181bhp 520i does 39.2mpg. Both figures for autos. In fact I know the 540i only comes in auto and Xdrive flavour. Not sure on the 520i.

Obviously there are other costs to consider, the vehicle itself, VED, maintenance of 6 cyls vs 4, etc. but for a few more spondoolies you get a LOT more power. I’ve got an older version of the 6 pot turbo in my 1 series (the N55 engine) and it is a joy – perfectly matched to the ZF8. You can just waft about on a wave of torque and the acceleration is just as impressive at 70mph as it is at 20mph.

I would really like a 540i but not ready to give up my little 1er yet and in all honesty once I do get shot (not for a while as only 38k on clock) I’ll probably get a leccy car.

I would echo the above re. a good independent too. I’ve just had a major(ish) service on my 135i and it was £259 for oil, filters and spark plugs.. probs £500 quids worth in dealer money.

V70 plus a Westfield.

No need to pay the German brand tax.

MadBillMcMad wrote:

We’re after buying an estate, petrol due to low mileage, 6k/yr. Second hand, <20,000. No HP or lease.
So I could be sensible but would something like a 2017ish 5 series tourer be total madness as a long term keeper.
Ignoring fuel charges what are the running costs like?
Your thoughts kind sirs.

We’re on the same path but looking at 3 series rather than 5. Many more examples around – autotrader shows only a single petrol 5 series estate on a nationwide search.

Any feedback on the F31 3 series touring?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_3_Series_(F30)#Touring_(F31)

Don’t know how much a 5 series costs, but if was over £40,000 and registered after April 2017 then it will be an extra £320 in vehicle tax.

BMW 5series 2.0 petrol as a keeper. Mad?

Not at all.

Massive glovebox

Any feedback on the F31 3 series touring?

How long have you got, I love mine 😀 Lets get the negatives out of the way:

a) Its isn’t the biggest estate in the world

b) Its RWD, which isn’t as much as an issues as some would make out, be if you live in the wilds and are dependant on the car a set of winters / decent all seasons might be needed.

c) Its boringly Germanic and functional.

Now the good points:

a) Its boringly germanic and functional.  If though you want to not have too much of an exciting, tiring or wearing journey over long distances then its lovely for long, easy cruises.

b) Its well laid out, easy to drive especially with the pretty much essential auto boxes.

c) They are frugal, and perform well.  The defect 320D that I have is 0-60 in just over 7 seconds and 50mpg without effort.  Above that the 330d/335d is an awesome piece of kit.   Both waft along well with auto/availble torque.

d) There are lots of demo/end of line cars about now the new model is released. Mine was ex demo/salesmans car 6k miles 1yo loaded with toys yet 60% of the 320d MSport forecourt price

e) Look for / change to non runflat tyres.  It makes a huge difference to the ride fore the better, and they are cheaper.

f) There’s a reason they are more common that Mondeo’s.

g) Its a drivers car.  If you haven’t driven any BMW before that will make sense to you once you do.

Anyway, enough from me, here’s Chris Harris:

Its isn’t the biggest estate in the world

I realise this is two very specific points but…

For me, I can’t get my bikes flat between the wheel arches on a 3, cos the gap at 92cm is too narrow even with the dropper post down, cos I’m real tall and have big bikes. 5s have considerably wider, and longer boots. I can get our buggy longways in a 5 boot but not in a 3, which makes for a lot more space.

3s seem to drive a lot more “sporty” in general than the 5s, 5s hide their size well, but it’s still a barvarian land yacht. That said, had a loaner m-sport trim 3 the other weekend and compared to my 5 it felt like the suspension had been needlessly ruined to make it feel sporty. But maybe I’m getting old*

*i hope not.

IA I’ve heard others say that about the 3 vs 5 also.  For balance, I’m averagely tall, ride L sized bikes which go in the boot with a lot of camping gear just fine.

Oh, and the opening rear window “hatch” on the 3 touring is not a feature to underestimate!

cheers @kryton57, we’re looking at a 318i (so only a 1.5 petrol engine. Hadn’t actually thought about measuring the distance between the wheel arches to see about bike fit, quick check online suggests 37″ (close to what @IA suggests) . Will measure the V50 shortly.

We’re considering winter tyres – I have winter wheels for the volvo on 16″ alloys (down from 17″ standard), but the bolt pattern on the BMW is different and a full new set of alloys & tyres at the moment is looking quite spendy. Might get winter tyres and swap them over, then get rims later – or possibly just go for Michelin Cross Climates. We’re on the egde of manchester and teh peak district and winter tyres have come in handy before now so would like to be ready

Mr Winter wheels do steels wheels and tyres for about £520 and alloys from about £660 – new.

I have a 320i that is 6 years old tomorrow. We got it when it was 6 months old. Now done 45,000 faultless miles. I extend the warranty every year for my piece of mind. It’s the engine before the B48 engine though, so not directly comparable.

We’re considering winter tyres

Depending where you live… drove my 5 in a bit of snow last year. It’s not as good as my old FWD car but it’s not as terrible as you might think. You do have to drive with a bit of care though, and think about where the front and rear wheels are, rather than just the fronts say, if that makes sense? E.g. consider coming out from being parked and crossing a band of snow to the carriageway – you have to think about when the steering wheels have grip and when the driving wheels do separately.

I think they’re great cars. I’ve a 10 year old E91 325i Touring, averaging 20k per year in it for the last 5 years, having had an E46 320d before that. It has had a few (unrelated) electrical gremlins of late that have cost a few quid. Mechanically it’s in fine fettle.

The suspension is the normal setup, but having just driven a Leon Cupra ST today with DCC, the BMW is much more ‘crashy’ over rough roads, despite having 17” wheels versus the Cupra’s 19” setup.

I’m sure an 8 year newer 5 series would be a lovely drive though.

My friend put her bike in the boot of my 3 Touring, she moaned about how it was so much more difficult than getting it in her Golf hatch – so yeah they’re not that big.

My old Octavia estate swallowed a 2 seater sofa, the same sofa needed the feet taken off and hung out the back of the BMW with the tailgate only half shut. It is better than the Octavia in pretty much every other way though.

My 2010 520D Touring was fine last time it snowed. Obviously, you’ve got to drive to the conditions. I couldn’t get the wife’s Clio out of our road but the 5 made it without any drama whatsoever and then made it to and from her work through 6 inches of virgin snow. I did try turning off all the driver aids just to see what difference they made… The answer is: lots!

I had Dunlop winter tyres on my previous 3 series and they were no better than the Goodyear Efficientgrips I ran before and after and significantly worse when it warmed up.

Also, my size 19.5 bike goes in the boot with a wheel off and the seats down. It’s not tall enough to get an adult bike in upright, even with the dropper down and the front wheel out.