Blue Pig X -Seatpost Slippage

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  • Blue Pig X -Seatpost Slippage
  • chris_db
    Member

    Ok, so I posted a week or so ago about how to stop my seatpost slipping down the seat tube on a Ragley Blue Pig X (30.9mm) – after some sarcasm it became clear I shouldn’t have greased it…

    I have degreased it and used carbon non slip paste instead and I simply can’t tighten up the seat collar enough to stop slippage without impeding my reverbs return.

    Has anyone got a solution for this please as I’m about to sell the bloody frame!

    Chris

    stumpytrek
    Member

    Try a strip of two of electrical tape along the seatpost. That effectively makes it a slightly tighter fit and should help slippage. Obviously clean the post first etc. Apply the tape lengthways not round and round.

    steel4real
    Member

    I’ll be interested to know how you get on as I have a blue pig X and reverb and it’s been ok since march. BUT like you i used the carbon anti slip stuff and have to tightem the seatpost clamp to the point it slows the reverb return down and then back it of a tad.
    The idea above with the tape may work if so, let me know.

    P.S. You have got the seat post clamp/collar shim around the seat tube for the seta post clamp to fit over on haven’t you ? (The Blue pig X is suppposed to be supplied with one)

    daveh
    Member

    Tried this kind of thing yet?

    wl
    Member

    Bit of a hijack (soz) but what is the Blue Pig X like to ride? Happy with it? I’ve been thinking about getting one as a more comfortable alternative to my aluminium long-travel hartail. Need something slack and low enough to ride super-steep and rocky stuff but comfy and light enough for all-day all-mountain riding. Would be running it with 160mm forks. Ta.

    v10
    Member

    Just something to check. The wall thickness on those frames is pretty thin so if the seat clamp has quite a thick ridge the clamp may be coming into contact with the reverb before its fully clamped the frame against it.

    steel4real
    Member

    v10 – probably not if the shim has been fitted, without it a seatpost clamp won’t work.

    Wl – it’s amazing with a 160mm fork.

    RE: seatpost slippage – in extremis you could drill and install a small bolt in the seat tube under the post or something. Think outside the box.

    Premier Icon JoeG
    Subscriber
    chris_db
    Member

    It’s a great bike to ride love it. I have 140 floats on and it just does everything I want it to. The full suss isn’t getting much of a look in tbh.

    I’m using the shim and I thought about the double clamp,but the shim won’t be long enough.

    The other idea I had was to make a shim the right length to fit out side the reverb so it butts up to the seat tube and the reverb collar.

    Any other thoughts?

    I mentioned that I’d solved this with a Thomson clamp in your other thread. The LBS who recommended that said that the problem with the Hope QR is that the bolt is quite far from the collar, so it tends to ovalise the collar rather than making it a smaller circle. This means that the seatpost is gripped by the sides of the seat tube rather than being gripped around its whole circumference. The Thomson clamp does a much better job of acting as a shrinking circle. The second part of the puzzle was that the LBS suggested fitting the clamp backwards, so instead of the bolt squeezing across the seat tube slot, the bolt is opposite the slot (slot front, bolt rear on my Soul), again helping to spread the clamping force around the whole tube, instead of pinching the seatpost near the slot.

    chris_db
    Member

    Cheers for that . When I used a Thomson clamp I found that it was reaching its limit of tightening before I could stop the slippage.

    I’ve resorted to a beer tin shim just now, I’ll see if that does the job. Off out this afternoon I’ll report back lol.

    Try the backwards clamp thing with your current one – makes good engineering sense!

    chris_db
    Member

    Any one want to buy a Ragley frame ?

    🙁

    Premier Icon accu
    Subscriber

    mmhh…an old problem…on my blue pig MK1 it was the same, tried everything, brant recommended degreasing and carbon paste..or the spike seatpost with 27,3, but that was not possible because the seattube changed the diameter inside after a couple of inches from too big to the right diameter !!..so no lowering at all.. nothing helped ..no way !
    later I went for a MK2..no problems even with a heavy greased seatpost…no slip..
    same with mates bagger, greased seatpost.. no probs..

    chris_db
    Member

    So the newer frame basically solved the known problem but the old BPX is still being sold and is effectively not fit for the purpose it was intended? I.e. provide a wider seat tube so a dropper can be fitted.

    Think I’ll be asking for my money back.

    chris_db
    Member

    All a bit annoying really as everything else about the frame is brilliant.

    wl
    Member

    So, anyone know what year the model changed from MK1 to MK2 on the Blue Pig X? Thanks.

    Personally when I ride my Pig, if the saddle’s up I tend to be riding uphill or on a smooth section. Soon as the fun begins I drop the saddle all the way to the top tube which is a long way down and release the true ability of the ‘The Truffle Hunter’.
    If I was bothered about seatpost slippage which it can suffer from then I’m sure a good think would reveal a solution without resorting to throwing a tantrum and demanding money back etc.
    I’m finding as the inside of the seatube rusts then grip has improved massivly. So there you go; degrease the inner surface, spray a bit of water on it and get out there. 😉
    How much were CRC selling these amazing frames for; £250?
    Most loved of my bikes now.

    P.S. If I had a dropper post on it I’d try a few different clamps then resort to drilling a 3mm hole through the seatube under the post and popping a stainless bolt in there.

    Premier Icon billyboy
    Subscriber

    You……………are the unpaid research and development dept for these companies.
    Cancel that……..YOU…..are paying them to be their research and development dept. You did pay for the items?

    chris_db
    Member

    Crikey!

    Never been on the receiving end on here before… That’s me in my place!

    Tantrum…hmm – not sure about that but I can see how you might reach that conclusion.

    As for R&D and suspicion of theft I think I may actually resent that one Billy-bollocks-boy. You can post your apology whenever you like 🙂

    Chris

    Sorry, was feeling sorry for myself this morning; day 4 of flu and still feeling rubbish.
    I don’t think Billy-bollocks-boy (tee-hee) was accusing you of theft btw.

    On a more constuctive note, perhaps the slot could be extended down 1-2cm and another clamp added? Maybe email Ragley with that idea.

    Or perhaps a hefty clamp that fitted well but done up with a nut and bolt so it could be really tight.
    You could be just a tenner away from loving your bike.

    A machinist could construct a plug that tightened like that Hope starfangled nut alternative. This could sit under the post and be adjustable/removed.

    Try not to think of generic bike products out there but as a simple enginering problem. How to stop a tube sliding into another tude. Steel is great too, very tolerant of abuse.

    chris_db
    Member

    Hey doughnut no probs! The theft thing was a bit ott – on my part lol!

    I have a friend with a lathe and I think I’ll get an external sleeve that can sit between the reverb collar and the top of the seat tube.

    Who knows, the carbon paste and San Miguel tin might work before then.

    Unless anyone can knock up a 33.2mm double bolt clamp?

    Chris

    chris_db
    Member

    What about Loctite?

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    So, why are we working on ways to make a faulty frame work? Send it back. Possibly they can provide a replacement that’s not faulty, possibly they can’t. If they can, win. If they can’t, buy something made right, win.

    brant
    Member

    P.S. You have got the seat post clamp/collar shim around the seat tube for the seta post clamp to fit over on haven’t you ? (The Blue pig X is suppposed to be supplied with one)

    This ^^^^^

    Also, check that the shim, or the clamp isn’t in any way contacting the seatpost. The only bit contacting the seatpost should be the inside of the seat tube.

    If the clamp or shim touches the post then it’s going to slide.

    Northwind.

    Because by the time you’ve stripped all the components off the frame, boxed and returned the Pig, bought another frame for probably a lot more (£250 for high quality steel tubing, wicked geometry, amazing rear compliance, and cool looking frame), then put in a new headset inc facing if ness, you’ve racked up a hefty cost for a bike that is your second choice.
    Or stop behaving like a victim and be a man and get it sorted with some tools. (Apologies: Day 5 of flu – even more frustrated!)

    chris_db
    Member

    Mr Doughnut we really need to sort out this flu – have you taken any proper drugs or just pussying about with Lemsip?

    Brant – thanks – I am using the shim, I will see if the lip is impacting on the post.

    Chris

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    rollindoughnut – Member

    Or stop behaving like a victim

    Aye, that’s what standing up for your rights is. On the other hand, paying for something badly made is totally manly 😉

    I’m quite enjoying this thead, I promise I’ll get more sensible when I’m better.

    FYI for the first time ever I’m not trying to battle on but stubbornly staying inside, resting, eating, and just taking Ibuprofen once or twice a day when I feel especially rotten. I do a lot of race training, and work outside, so it’s very hard to do nothing, but I’m determined to get better properly.

    Feeling quite decent today and no sign of a cough so am hopeful that I’ll be able to get back on the bike this weekend for some easy riding.

    Until then you’ll just have to put up with me.

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