Bike cleaning products
Yeah, that’s what I thought. They all make claims about protective properties but i’m a bit dubious about if they actually cause damage to some materials. I found the hard way that MRP chain guides don’t like GT85 very much.
Saying that, anyone tried – http://ride.io/reviews/ducksmart-cleaning-products-review/Posted 3 years ago
Does anyone here actually use them?
Yes but no the bike specific ones cos they a too dear.
Check out the dilution ratio… 8)Posted 3 years agoRusty SpannerSubscriber
This seems to work as well anything else.
Yak – Member
No. Nothing wrong with a bit of water/ cheap car shampoo, elbow grease and a rinse off after.
Makes it easier and less messy though. Seem to spend less time on the drivetrain after a quick spray with one of these, so I’m more likely to do it properly.Posted 3 years agodownhilldaveSubscriber
Similar to jaffejoffer, but give it a wash with a little car shampoo in warm water after the Muc Off. Dry it off,lube the forks shock and dropper with Fork Juice. Leave it by the radiator in the kitchen to dry then clean and lube the chain. No damage to any of my previous bikes, been using it for years, sometimes three times a week.Posted 3 years agojaymoidMember
Yes but no the bike specific ones cos they are too dear.
I use http://www.screwfix.com/p/swarfega-oil-grease-remover-5ltr/20817
Check out the dilution ratio…
Wow, 1:50… Homeopathic bike wash?
(I don’t doubt it, I use swarfega handwash, great stuff)Posted 3 years agomindmap3Member
Car shampoo and warm water normally for me, but I do use Fenwicks too (especially away from home). Always use a proper degreaser and chain cleaner for the drivetrain.
I’ve got to admit that I give it a wipe down with Bike Spray afterwards. The bike is also bought in the house afterwards to try and dry out any water sitting in places that it shouldn’t.Posted 3 years agohooliMember
For the MTB, I hose it off when I get back so the mud doesn’t dry. Then dry off the chain and lube so it doesn’t rust. Every few weeks I will give the chain a decent clean and lube. Other that that, it generally gets neglected.
Road bike seems to get an oily film on it, I put some chain degreaser on a rag and give the worst bits of the frame a wipe before hosing it off. Chain gets a quick dry/lube.
Neither bikes look showroom but generally all the bits work silently which is all I want.Posted 3 years agoThe PinksterSubscriber
Big fan of FS1 neat for cleaning chain & cassette and it watered down to FS10 for the rest of the bike.
Having used Muc Off & Sh!tShifter as well, along with car cleaners & even Fairy liquid I’d say Fenwicks is by far the superior cleaner. Juar wet the bike, spray it on, come back a minute later and hose it off again.
Bike comes up gleaming for very little effort.Posted 3 years agomduncombeMember
I have gone full circle
Car shampoo -> Muc off -> Fenwicks -> car shampoo
Muc off and Fenwicks work, spray on, agitate with brush rinse off. If I had to choose I would say the Fenwicks gave better results.
However a bucket of warm soapy water and a sponge does just as well. I spent a rainy afternoon washing my bikes, cleaning every bit of mud an grease off them before treating the frames with Armourall Shield Wax. It works on the car so thought it might help with the bikes. You can treat a whole bike frame with a thimble full. Now after every ride a quick rinse with the hose has the mud falling of and the water rolling off nicely. Then once a month a wash with car shampoo, a sponge and a bucket of warm water. When away from home one of those hand pump pressure washer things does a decent job rinsing the mud off.
The Fenwicks FS1 does a great job on the chainPosted 3 years agonedrapierSubscriber
I remember some in MBUK yeeears ago about bike cleaners. Started off saying “You may think fairy liquid is just the job, but ingredients can damage your paint and other components. Here we look at some specialist bike products… Make sure you don’t leave the Muc-Off on too long, or it can damage you paint and other components…”
hose down and leave for a bit so the mud gets mobile, couple of caps of Flash in mop bucket and have at it with a dustpan-and-brush brush.
Best bike cleany tip I got from here was baby wipes for the drivetrain, quick and easy to use, check your progress by the colour of the wipe. I’ve also started using them as a final wipe of the paint after cleaning. It’s alwasys disappointing to do the final rinse and have it gleaming, look back when it’s dry and there’s a dull coat of fine swirly muck on the paint.
Makes me sound anal on cleaning. I hardly ever do more than a quick hose off and a wipe of the drivey bits. If there’s a perfect storm of perceived need of a proper clean, nice weather and sufficient enthusiasm, I do like to get into it, man, properly dig the process.Posted 3 years agocardoSubscriber
Used to use Muc Off but wasn’t convinced it was very effective, so now use the hose to remove the big stuff, warm water and a little Auto Glym Car shampoo , rinse and leather dry. I’ve been using dry lubes for the last 18 months so chain degreasing is very rare nowadays but when required the old jar of petrol and a rag works a treat.Posted 3 years ago
Hope Sh%t Shifter works well. One bottle at a fiver lasts a year.
How often are you washing your bike?
Don’t see the point fannying about trying to save £2.50 a year on a multi thousand pound bike by covering it in cheaper stuff that may or may not be suitable.
£2.50 a year?
rocketman – Member
Let the dirt dry then vacuum it off
For the really stubborn bits, you can use a hammer n chisel too 😆Posted 3 years ago
About once a week.
On a turbo-trainer?
1 bottle of whatever car / hair shampoo you think will save you money, may be about two fifty.
The Swarfega stuff is £8.09 for 5 litres with a dilution rate of 1:50…
PS – tempted to give stardrops a go for retro-value alone 8)Posted 3 years agoconvertSubscriber
Everyone should have a snow foam lance in their lives. Awesome on the car and great on the bike too. I try to combine doing them at the same time. It reduces the actual manual cleaning to a minimum reducing dragging around dirty and scratching the finish of painted surfaces (more car specific I guess).
I’m not longer a fan of the complete dunking degrease of the chain if at all possible – just strips too much out of the internals. Best thing for the keeping the drivetrain clean is to take care what you put on it in the first place.Posted 3 years agojamesoSubscriber
Warm water in a bucket and a brush. No hose / pressure. ie not a lot different to what happens when riding. Citrus degreaser on the chain/cassette if it really needs it in winter to get rid of oil clag.
Anything that’s designed to clean faster and penetrate under dirt that contains degreasers, salt or whatever is in those spray-ons can also wash into the edges of seals, onto brakes etc isn’t so good imo. It’s no prob if used sparingly but bearings can wear fast enough as it is without adding that stuff to the mix. A bit grubby on top but mechanically 100% underneath seems to work for me.
Best thing for the keeping the drivetrain clean is to take care what you put on it in the first place.
Good advice.Posted 3 years ago
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