Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)
  • Best way to convert MTB to singlespeed
  • howsyourdad1
    Free Member

    Sorry i did search….

    , i have a 135 spaced hardtail currently with 1 x 10 and i’d like to make it singlespeed, standard drop outs. whats the easiest way please?  DMR type conversion kit?

    ta!

    Yak
    Full Member

    If you want to make it a long term singlespeed bike I would suggest you go for each bit separately and get decent stuff. Eg surly chainring, ss single ring chainbolts, surly or velosolo ss cog, kmc 3/32 chain, pack of thin spacers – eg velosolo and whatever tensioner you fancy (someone will say what’s best. I haven’t used any). If you just want something quick to try, then one of those kits will do.

    howsyourdad1
    Free Member

    cheers, i kind of just want to use whta i have. XT cranks with a n/w. 10 speed chain. i won’t be pedalling on it as such, it’s for a pump track bike

    joshvegas
    Free Member

    I like a wide bottom cog and somee spacers.

    My bikes are ss specific so dont need a tensioner except the sidekick which has a tensioner at the bb that’s rigid because it keeps the chain up which i think looks better. I’m sure its a dmr one.

    Yak
    Full Member

    Just get the kit then. If the chainline is out with those big spacers, then you might need a pack of narrow spacers.

    howsyourdad1
    Free Member

    do i need a tensioner?

    tomhoward
    Full Member

    i won’t be pedalling on it as such, it’s for a pump track bike

    Properly commit. Go chainless. 😉

    Yak
    Full Member

    Tensioner? Yes.

    joshvegas
    Free Member

    Hows your dad.

    Yes unless you are very lucky.

    But theres a fine line in tension between staying on and staying off. Especially if your chainline is a bit off.

    If you have an old deraileur you can make one from that.

    benp1
    Full Member

    You need a tensioner unless you can get to the magic number of links by luck

    alexnharvey
    Free Member

    The superstar components and velosolo spacers offer finer chainline adjustment than the 2 piece kits. A wide foot sprocket is useful if you have an aluminium freehub. A taller tooth chainring is a nice addition too as presumably you’ll have some risk of derailment on the pump track although mitigated by having a tensioner. I like a nice bushed chain such as the KMC B1 or B1 narrow for singlespeeding too.

    A WI eno eccentric hub is the other option if you wanted to avoid a tensioner, not cheap though.

    howsyourdad1
    Free Member

    cheers all, excellent knowledge

    luket
    Full Member

    Or if you have a roller type bottom chain device that might do the tensioning job for you. Personally I think they can be at least as good as a sprung rear one.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    The only problem with a push-up tensioner (all front tensioners and some rear ones) is they offer finite amount of tensioning before they hit the chainstay.

    I’ve got my Vagabond SS’d and it’s a smidgen longer than being perfect without a tensioner, it’ll go round but it’s under massive tension. So adding a whole link means a push-up tensioner won’t work.

    Most geared frames seem to have the chainline much further out than they used to, those two piece kits put the sprocket in the middle of the cassette, IME most HT2 chainsets seem to be closer to the end of the cassette. But chainline is more critical without a tensioner.

    howsyourdad1
    Free Member

    I have none of these things and barely know what they are! I have an old rear mech !

    ibnchris
    Full Member

    Don’t bother with tensioner. Get bmx half chain. They come in entertaining anodised colours too. And are reassuringly stout 🙂

    BadlyWiredDog
    Full Member

    You need a tensioner unless you can get to the magic number of links by luck

    Which is fine until it wears. If you can find one, an outboard eccentric BB is super neat. There’s a Phil Wood one called the Philcentric. Not cheap though.

    https://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/philcentric.php

    An alternative to a tensioner bodge anyway.

    squirrelking
    Free Member

    I have an old rear mech !

    Where dead 105’s live out their days.

    eddiebaby
    Free Member

    If you want a 16T rear cog pm me your address and ill pop a shiney new superstar one in the post to you. Don’t need it as I’m belt drive now.

    dovebiker
    Full Member

    I’ve run various SS conversions over the years – the most frustrating are the simple tensioners as they’re poor quality and always going out of alignment / need fettling. The best tensioner is a 2-pulley like Shimano CT-500.

    Eccentric BBs are another option with 24mm spindle cranks and threaded BBs – they work well but tension is critical to stop bearing wear.

    White Industries ENO eccentric hub works well – I have one on my current SS – I have it set-up that I just need to loosen bolts / lean on saddle to adjust chain tension. 1/8″ chain, Token freewheel and 1/8″ BETD chainring will probably survive the apocalypse

Viewing 21 posts - 1 through 21 (of 21 total)

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