I’m fed up of stock tyre valves that have a rubbish locking ring and valve threads and get gunked up with sealant. What are the best (trickest) ones on the market? I won’t lie, I’m also buying them so they look good too 🙂

The new Muc-off ones look bling and ate nice and exorbitant, if that’s your bag.

I’ve never had any trouble with ones cut out of conti innertubes 😉 I just add a coloured cap for extra tartiness.

The DT Swiss ones that fit nicely in your DT Swiss wheels are the nicest.

They still need the occasional clean of the core.

I got an awesome set of stainless Shrader valves. So easy to get a lot air or sealant in.
This kind of thing. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Tubeless-Mountain-Bike-Schrader-Tyre-Valve-X4-Motorbike-Scooter-Motorcycle/1788637556?iid=151387923990&chn=ps

milkit if you want valves with actual practical advantages.

Muc Off if they really have to be pink.

I’ve had Stan’s And DT Swiss valvesthat work fine. Both got gunned up eventually so I just replaced the cores and they were good to go again. I like the DT Swiss ones more but they are more expensive.

My milkit ones have been average at best. They seem to gunk up like the rest but are a real pain in the ass to let air out of sometimes. Love the initial setup ease with them but not a perfect solution in my exporience

I usually do what ajantom does – cut them out of Conti or Schwalbe tubes. Works as well as anything else that I’ve tried.
Plus red ano caps, of course.

Plus red ano caps, of course

Wheel buddy! Exactly what I’m running 👍

E13 valves are the only ones I’ve seen that being something useful to the table over a standard valve. Not cheap mind.

I keep seeing an uberbike post on FB about some new valves they’re doing that look pretty good

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2307552452623410&id=228314807213862

I just used some uberbike ones and was pretty impressed with them but I suspect they are all pretty similar.

CaffeLatex. If they’re good enough for my Tripster… 🙂
Thing is, the “best” ones, are the ones made by the same manufacturer as your wheels. But I found the Caffe Latex ones work well with my Mavics. And they have nice caps.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/effetto-caffelatex-tubeless-valve-kit/rp-prod150147

I keep seeing an uberbike post on FB

Says they’ll be £13.99.. turns out £9.99, so worth a try. Red, please.

Those are the old ones DezB, the new ones have a core removing cap and work with tyre inserts and come in colours

I’m pretty sure standard tube valves/tubeless valves are brass (edited) and not alu. Peatys valves are alu and both front an rear sheared off in use on a mates bike. I’m guessing Aluminium is brittle, in a valve it’s thin, and the threads give nice stress risers for it to break across – you put a fair side load on them when fixing/removing a pump head. (that last sentence could be completely technically ignorant but aluminum doesn’t seem like a good material to use here).

i’ve various sitting around and no idea where each of them came from. Some have short stubby uppers, some have square bits that go into the rim rather than round, some have larger holes in the rubber bit. I just discovered the one I used in my new DT wheelset (which was OEM so came without valves) doesn’t seem ot have a removeable core (!?!).

IME you want
– square rubber block to go in rim
– steel tube
– big hole in the rubber block to make it easier to clear and give less air resistance for tyre mounting
– removable core.

What brnad meets those criteria?

I find all tubeless values to be much the same, I picked up 10 valve cores of eBay for a couple of quid and when I notice air not transferring in from the pump easily Ill swap em out and poke something through the value to clear it.

Currently using DT Swiss valves but they dont play so well with my new Stans Flow rims, there is slight side to side movement which let lil bits of air out when using the track pump. Have just picked up some Problem Solvers Big-P Nuts hoping this will solve it, if not I’ll try proper Stans Valves.

Never really found a different – certainly not to justify the exorbitant price that some people want. Don’t really understand why someone doesn’t make one with a hexagonal locknut as 9/10 any leakage can be cured by tightening the nut. Ever tried to remove a knurled nut with cold hands after it’s been there for 2 years?

I find all tubeless values to be much the same, I picked up 10 valve cores of eBay for a couple of quid

This. And they’ll come with anodized caps too.

ive got the stans, specialized, conti and dt swiss ones atm

the dtwiss are the worst unless your on an old alu rim with a deep groove. they spin and dont seem to seal as well then.

the stans are nice but long

conti ones are ok, look nice

specialized im currently using because they are short and have an oring but would be no good on an old alu rim as they need a flat section of rim.

I normally just buy the cheapest I can find, never had an issue with any of them but I do take the valve cores out every so often and give them a soak in some soapy water.

anyone had any luck unclogging valve cores with isopropyl alcohol?

it disolves natural resins and latex is one i think so it should work

mine are just starting to clog now after a few months

anyone had any luck unclogging valve cores with isopropyl alcohol?

Haven’t tried that but i’ve never worked what to use to get latex residue off of rims easily either – it’s remakably tough when dried on with some dirt in it. ShitShifter doesn’t touch it.

anyone had any luck unclogging valve cores with isopropyl alcohol?

I have used isopropyl alcohol to shift Stan’s from my Milkit tubes and it helped remove the sealant but didn’t dissolve it.  Just sort of came off in unsticky lumps so could potentially block a valve if you can’t get it to flush through.  Maybe it would dissolve given time?

simons_nicolai-uk Member

Did I bump into you at Peaslake on Saturday?  You made some outrageous comment about my bike being so filthy you couldn’t see it had a gearbox?  If so, I hope you had a good ride 🙂

Yes, that was me – a really good day out. Got back to an empty car park at about 5pm. Always forget to ask for forum ID when I meet a STW regualar

I prefer straight through alu or brass all the way American classic style so you can clear them using a bradawl. Buy a bag of cheapo valve cores and replace regularly. IPA wont do much for sealant, Xylene will but its hard to work with as it will also dissolve your gloves….

Oh and DT swiss OE wheels do come with DT Valves… Just not from where you bought them @S_N

I find they’re all much of a muchness, the key thing is replacing cores every so often.

Having said that, foams can cause a problem and some valves are now coming with redesigned seals to allow good air flow even if a foam is pressing down on the valve.

Edit- which those new Uberbike valves seem to do

Oh and DT swiss OE wheels do come with DT Valves… Just not from where you bought them @S_N

I’m sure they do but I wasn’t going to argue with a pair of EX1501’s for £340 :-). That’s less than the RRP for the front alone

As above, American classic valves, plus they are red so make you faster and look cooler

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283218047544

Those AC valves look a good deal. Might have to try some. Mmm red.