I had Tetro RL340 levers with them, worked fine, TBH worked almost as well as the SRAM hydros on my cross bike. Two things to note:
1) Cable outer make a massive difference. Compression-less outer makes them pretty much on a par with hydraulics in terms of how solid the lever feels.
2) The OEM pads are really bad. Swap them for something like race-matrix. Normally I find pads are all much of a muchness, and any changes are sublte (i.e. you just have to squeeze the elver a bit more or less) but the TRP pads just offered no stopping power in comparison.
And kinda a a 3rd, set them up with the bite point nice can close to the bars. I dunno why roadies insist on having the levers so far away when MTB’s have known for years that it’s less fatiguing and more powerful having the bite point right up against the bars not at zero freestroke.
Nobeerinthefridge
Member
Had spyres on my cx bike, they were a bit meh, but didn’t really realise how shite they were on my commute til I bought a flat barred hybrid with basic shimano hydraulics.
The ones that came with the bike, no idea what they were, though I don’t think the outer has as much infuence as the fact that only one side of the caliper moves, so it relies on pushing the disk onto the other pad.
Then you weren’t using spyres because they’re twin piston.
[edit – 58 seconds late on both points!]