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  • best drop bar brake levers to work with trp spyres?
  • ton
    Full Member

    anyone know please?

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Had spyres on my cx bike, they were a bit meh, but didn’t really realise how shite they were on my commute til I bought a flat barred hybrid with basic shimano hydraulics.

    nbt
    Full Member

    Got Spyres on the tandem paired with Tiagra 3*10 STIs, they stop us fine

    kazafaza
    Free Member

    Swapped my BB7s for the TRP Spyres and regretted it. I’ve had them paired with Tektro RL340’s and they were okayish, much preferred the braking with Apex 10sp brifters and probably better still were the Cane Creek SCR 5.

    epicyclo
    Full Member

    Slightly OT, but when criticising a disk brake, could you mention what cable outer you used?

    My experience is that most cable brake apparent problems actually come down to how much the outer compresses under pressure.

    BTW my Spyres work perfectly well, as do my Road BB7s.

    tthew
    Full Member

    Like epicyclo alludes to, I found that compressionless outer cable was much more significant. Using with Ultegra brifters the performance was poor to average at best, even after proper bedding in. A set of new compressionless cables, run full length made night and day difference. Just a standard set bought online, nothing outrageously expensive.

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Slightly OT, but when criticising a disk brake, could you mention what cable outer you used

    The ones that came with the bike, no idea what they were, though I don’t think the outer has as much infuence as the fact that only one side of the caliper moves, so it relies on pushing the disk onto the other pad.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    None of this is helping the OP.

    Do you mean just brake levers, or STIs Tony?

    fasthaggis
    Full Member
    ampthill
    Full Member

    My memory is that they do 2 a road one and an MTB one as the levers pulls differently. Mine are road and are set up with Tiagra 5700 sti. They work well

    13thfloormonk
    Full Member

    The ones that came with the bike, no idea what they were, though I don’t think the outer has as much infuence as the fact that only one side of the caliper moves, so it relies on pushing the disk onto the other pad.

    Can I just be the first of many to point out that those couldn’t have been Spyres? 😉

    Spyres are road lever pull, so any road lever should work. TRP also claim they are optimised to work with Shimano’s slightly different ‘SLR’ lever pull although I’ve never done enough research to figure out what the difference is. Almost any drop bar lever will therefore work apart from (I think) the Cane Creek ones which are designed to work with V-Brakes.

    Spykes are the MTB ones.

    tthew
    Full Member

    The ones that came with the bike, no idea what they were, though I don’t think the outer has as much infuence as the fact that only one side of the caliper moves, so it relies on pushing the disk onto the other pad.

    They weren’t Spyres then, because they absolutely move both pads.

    None of this is helping the OP.

    I think mine and epicyclo’s point about the compressionless cable being more important is extremely pertinent.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    I had Tetro RL340 levers with them, worked fine, TBH worked almost as well as the SRAM hydros on my cross bike. Two things to note:

    1) Cable outer make a massive difference. Compression-less outer makes them pretty much on a par with hydraulics in terms of how solid the lever feels.

    2) The OEM pads are really bad. Swap them for something like race-matrix. Normally I find pads are all much of a muchness, and any changes are sublte (i.e. you just have to squeeze the elver a bit more or less) but the TRP pads just offered no stopping power in comparison.

    And kinda a a 3rd, set them up with the bite point nice can close to the bars. I dunno why roadies insist on having the levers so far away when MTB’s have known for years that it’s less fatiguing and more powerful having the bite point right up against the bars not at zero freestroke.

    Nobeerinthefridge

    Member
    Had spyres on my cx bike, they were a bit meh, but didn’t really realise how shite they were on my commute til I bought a flat barred hybrid with basic shimano hydraulics.

    The ones that came with the bike, no idea what they were, though I don’t think the outer has as much infuence as the fact that only one side of the caliper moves, so it relies on pushing the disk onto the other pad.

    Then you weren’t using spyres because they’re twin piston.

    [edit – 58 seconds late on both points!]

    GHill
    Full Member

    EDIT: Far too slow.

    linusr
    Full Member

    Shimano Tiagra 4700 work fine with Spyre and BB7s.

    jameso
    Full Member

    SRAM non-STI road levers working well here. Feel good, better than the Tektro RL levers imo. Shimano resin pads and compressionless rear housing. Calipers stripped and greased before 1st winter and again fairly recently, now almost 5 years old. Really good brakes.

    steve_b77
    Free Member

    I’ve got Rival mechanical shifters with TRP HYRD but most importantly using the TRP Disc Connect compression less cable kit, they’re almost as good as my Force Hydros.

    I had Spyres on a previous bike with the same cable kit and Fibrax pads, they were more than good enough to stop me on the 3 Peaks, normal cross races and many normal rides.

    ton
    Full Member

    I ordered a pair of the trp ones from on one. I shall report back.

    cheers fellas.

    joemmo
    Free Member

    I think mine and epicyclo’s point about the compressionless cable being more important is extremely pertinent.

    I’d like to big +1 up the pertinence of the above. They worked fine for me with 105 levers but I succumbed to hydraulic Ultegra and they are just a bit more splendid.

    root-n-5th
    Free Member

    Really like Spyres and compressionless seems to be key. Much better than the hybrid hydro/mechanical I had before.

    I use old Campag Daytona shifters – quality items and work just fine. I think they are 9 speed and they will pull an xt mech on an 8 speed cassette with no meddling.

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    My bad, they were 105 levers with spyre calipers, as listed on the spec for the bike, merida 500cx. Im sure weeksy will confirm, he bought it from me.

    Still shite.

    psycorp
    Free Member

    All relative but I found a change from Tiagra 4600 to Tiagra 4700 levers made quite a difference to the feel of my Spyres. I think the cable pull ratios may have changed on the brake, as well as the gear side, from one to the other. The lever change has made almost as much difference as adding full length compressionless outers did. Very happy with the feel and function of this combination.

    frogstomp
    Full Member

    SRAM Rival levers with Yokozuna compressionless outers here.. seem to work fine with more than enough power and modulation for skinny (and not so) tyres. No complaints here.

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Just had a look at my pics, the caliper says TRP Spyre C on it.

    So safe to assume they were spyres… 🙂

    simondbarnes
    Full Member

    So safe to assume they were spyres…

    So safe to assume you just mis-remembered the bit about only one piston moving then 🙂

    Bustaspoke
    Free Member

    I’ve got TRP Spyres fitted to my Norco Search ‘Gravel bike’.
    It’s specced with 105 shifters,I find the brakes are rubbish,the worst I’ve ever had.
    I was going to change the pads to see if that would improve things but having read the previous posts I think I’ll try some compressionless outers too.

    Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    So safe to assume you just mis-remembered the bit about only one piston moving then

    Possibly! 🙂 or they were jammed or summit, god knows.

Viewing 27 posts - 1 through 27 (of 27 total)

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