best all – year chain oil ?

gt 85 does contain light oil – and will be nearly as effective as the other oils you put on the outside of a chain. It may even be more effective than some as the solvents in it should allow it to penetrate the rollers where the oil is really needed

This is the beauty of the putoline – it fills the space around the rollers with a wax that then stays there giving the long lasting lubrication

Putoline is designed for motocross bikes which put their chains under far greater stress than an MTB

Are people serious about using GT-85??! That’s not a lube, is it?

Well I’ve been using it summer and winter for 15+ years, it’s never let me down and I’ve had 1 chain issue in 15+ years which has a snap and a massive climb.
So yes, I’m serious

Oh OK. I’m suprised people use it for lube. I use it for a quick degrease, loosen the muck before washing. But might try it sometime though!

I like FinishLine Dry, the red one. It pasts at least a ride or 2 in the rain and is relatively mess free.

Have been riding for years and think tried every one above, lots ok, some even good. Touring bike gets engine oil, put on and wiped down, has lasted years. Posh road bike a ceramic but gets wiped and re oiled most rides.
MTBs are now all on Boeshield T-9, getting it from the Mudhugger guys, this stuff is excellent and exceeding all previous oils, waxes, etc..

Lubricant Testing

Couple of questions about that zerofrictioncycling website.

1) can anyone explain that last graph? I seems to show that the molten wax goes from first to last after a few hundred km’s on a single application? I’m guessing that’s showing that the wax eventually wears off whereas a liquid lube in lab conditions doesn’t?

2) Interesting that he heats his wax to only 90C, I’ve always got putoline upto the max my fryer would do (220C, at which point the wax starts to smoke as you’re around it’s ignition temp) so that it would be as low viscosity as possible. I wonder if I’d be better doing it in a bowl submerged in a water bath instead. Or if his wax is significantly lower viscosity.

It does backup what TJ and others have been saying for years though, motlen wax is in another league compared to traditional lubes.

if he is only heating the wax to 90 its not getting hot enough to do the job properly. Its needs to be much hotter to get it thin enough to penetrate the rollers. Its hardly molten at 90

Putoline also contains a bunch of friction modifiers – its not just wax.

+1 for c3 ceramic ..expensive but get about 1k out of a chain and so far not goosed a chain ring in thousands of miles…if I lube it right(not hard!!) I’ll get about 1k but more likely 800 miles(pretty good considering where its stored.. )..but the sludge is the worst…and if its cleaned badly till ruin a chain in no time at all..

Snake oil is the best (most posts above seem to agree) 🙂

if he is only heating the wax to 90 its not getting hot enough to do the job properly. Its needs to be much hotter to get it thin enough to penetrate the rollers. Its hardly molten at 90

Putoline also contains a bunch of friction modifiers – its not just wax.

I get the impression the website and the wax are the same person? Could be lower molecular weight wax to bring the melting point down.

Putoline describes itself as having graphite in the wax but given the stink I’m guessing there’s sulphur compounds too. It’d be interesting to know what’s in the speedwax, they do a race additive which costs a bit more, wonder if it’s something more exotic like tungsten disulphide?

The wax – It is interesting stuff but we have toured on bikes, commuted on bikes, raced xc, dh and enduros, raced motorbikes and race cars with chains and when some of the lubes are so good and easy why go to all the trouble? Our experience is chains are best clean, so clean and light oil and they usually bite the dust or need changing for other reasons, long before wearing out or stretching too much over all.
Most likely reason to change in this house is parts of the chain are too stretched or have broken once or twice.
Though my touring bike is 7 or 8 speed (can’t remember) gets oiled with engine oil and is years old! And for authenticity we waxed the 1951 AJS 500 chain!

I used to so much now riding in the 90’s than I do now and I have to confess, I only ever used GT85 to lube them without any ill effects.

Now?

I’m a fully paid up snake oil buyer. For better or worse.

I use what ever oil is on offer at my lbs. I use it little and often, usually after evert ride. Dry the chain, oil it, remove excess. I have a couple of oil tester tubes that are small and go in my bag in case I need to re apply mid ride.

From time to time i remove the chain and completely clean and lube.

Life’s too short to spend my nights brewing a witches potion and dipping my chain.

Although, TJ what’s your address for my chains? I have 4 bikes 😂

Damascus – PM and I’ll happily give you my address and treat 4 chains for you. Take me ten mins and cost almost nothing. Seriously.

From time to time i remove the chain and completely clean and lube.

Life’s too short to spend my nights brewing a witches potion and dipping my chain.

The main benefit of wax is you only have to do the former occasionally. And its one step, theres no cleaning involved. The only thing that needs removing is any water (otherwise it will boil).

And you can do as many bikes as you have at the same time.

To paraphrase your own comment, lifes too short to clean chains!

Squirt.

It’s not that good a thread.

Dirty boy!

 I seems to show that the molten wax goes from first to last after a few hundred km’s on a single application?

He says why in one of his (very comprehensive) pdfs. While wax is very good at coating the chain, he thinks it has life span issues especially in harsh/wet conditions, as because the wax is solid, it’s eventually abraded off (by having gritting water thrown at it) and washed off the chain, so you go from very lubed to no lube at all* in a short time frame. I think even TJ has suggested that a wet peaty ride will see the end of his wax applications.

*He goes onto say that liquid drip lubes also suffer this, but as long as there is ‘some’ liquid remaining, there will be some lubrication (although this is part lubrication/part liquid sandpaper)

He pretty much rates wax over everything, but concludes that all lubes will wash off given enough of a harsh environment.

Yep, thats my experience, although its worth pointing out that if the conditions have washed the wax off, then everything else would probably be gone too!

Interesting that squirt lasts so much longer when applied in layers (as per the instructions).

I wonder whats in the silca lube that makes it so good (at least in a lab test to the death scenario).

It’s a pretty interesting website. Yes, you’re right, gritty wet conditions will get rid of any lube in short order is pretty much the takeaway. I think his testing is mostly roadie perspective though. Although he does offer opinions on the best sort of lube for different disciplines CX, Road and XC) and it’s mostly for racing; he constantly references watts lost or gained.

I think on reflection the advice: Keep your drivetrain as clean as you can, and choose a lubrication strategy that you’ll keep up with, is probably more important than what type of lube you choose from a mountain bike perspective, as a couple of hours in the winter is probably going to strip everything off, and you’ll have to re-apply regardless.

Although it’s clear that wax is the best overall option. in terms of price and effectiveness, even if it’s a pest to apply.

What sort of lifespan are Putoline users getting compared to wet lubes, either in hours/weeks/days or mileage?

Never had a problem with drivetrain life until I started riding an eMTB (which is saving me a lot of time commuting whilst also being great fun). It’s harder to clean and lube because turning the cranks backwards doesn’t turn the chainring and the greater load seems to mean rapid wear when the lube is missing or dirty. I’ve destroyed two chains and cassettes in 1200 miles…

Chief

I get around a thousand miles on the road in winter, more in summer, a couple of hundred miles offroad at least unless the acidic soils strip it out. For example I did a 350 mile 50 / 50 road / offroad tour in decent conditions. Lubed before I went, still plenty left upon return

I think my chainlife is around 4X as long. chainrings longevity is not so greatly improved

as because the wax is solid, it’s eventually abraded off (by having gritting water thrown at it) and washed off the chain,

This is missing the point – the wax comes off the outside of the chain yes – but it remains in the rollers where you need it. sometimes I have had the chains starting to rust on the outside but still full of wax in the rollers which is easily dealt with by a wipe with an oily rag

again I will make the offer – post me a chain and I’ll treat it for you

“again I will make the offer – post me a chain and I’ll treat it for you”

Can I send you two?!!

I’m replacing all but the chainring tomorrow because it’s worn to the point it won’t shift properly under load and my plan had been to revert to my previous method of running two chains, keeping one in paraffin and lubing the other with Finishline Wet and swapping them every month or so.

It’s harder to clean and lube because turning the cranks backwards doesn’t turn the chainring

Put a 5mm allen key in one of the chainring bolts.
Problem solved.

This is missing the point

His test, not my words. It looks like he knows what he’s talking about. don’t worry about it.

cheif no problem – pm me for an address

“Put a 5mm allen key in one of the chainring bolts.
Problem solved.”

This is a good trick!

“cheif no problem – pm me for an address”

Thank you, I will!

putoline in small fat fryer.
Easy and Very effective. Lasts months.

I’ve used Purple Extreme for years in all weathers. Can get a bit black but never gunky and doesn’t wash off easily. Now using Fenwicks professional which is so far so good

I’ve used most stuff over the years. But a tin of Putoline is arriving tomorrow. Trails are nice and wet and gritty, let’s see how it goes 🙂

The key issue for me is how well it allows wet grit to leave the chain. In the grit we get here, the chain ends up with a suspension of grit all over and inside it. If the wax stays on as promised here then the gritty water should bead off and not end up saturating the chain. We’ll see.

Don’t burn your house down Moley!

Awaits “the red lights come on my fryer” epic molgrips thread.

Can I send you two?!!

Its as quick to do 2/3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10+ as it is one, just chuck them all in the pot at the same time.

Great if you have n+1 issues!

no PM yet chief

I think I’m going to give the putoline a go this winter. Riding more in the Surrey Hills to avoid the South Downs clag the last couple of years and haven’t really found a chain lube that can cope with the sandy soil there.

Out of interest, how long does the tin last?

the last tin I had lasted 10 years or so. I have just started my second tin. its a kilo of wax and each application is a few grammes of wax

Forever. Mines now at least 10 years old and the level hasn’t noticeably dropped.

But it has got contaminated and gone a bit more greasy and less waxy. Think a phase of cleaning chains in white spirit (which then ends up in the wax) might be the cause. So ive begrugingly ordered a new tin.

Ill keep the old wax to top it up sometime arround 2050!

the last tin I had lasted 10 years or so.

Blimey, that’s bloody good. I’m going to use a camping stove as no leccy in the garage, so I’ll no doubt manage to knock it all over the floor on my first attempt 🙂

I’ve ordered a tin for £23 (inc delv) from dirtbikebitz , (just in case anyone else is looking for some).

Don’t use an open flame. I wait for a dry day and run an extension out the window.

Can I just add a note of caution here. Science officer whos opinion I respect did not find the same advantages as I do. I have never really got to the bottom of why he didn’t.

I heat my tin on the gas hob with no issues. Just do not leave it unattended