There’s a 1.9D for sale locally for £900, looks like it had the minimum work done to pass an MOT about 6 months ago (it failed, stuff got sorted, advisories didn’t), which TBH is what I’d expect of a £900 car.

Is the 1.9D worth it though? Or is it underpowered and not all that economical? The figures aren’t any better than the 1.4/1.6 petrol versions, is it the same in the real world?

Is the cambelt doable with normal tools on the driveway?

I need something that will tolerate doing the best part of 12,000 motorway miles over the 3 first months of next year, after that the 45p’s will have paid for it 5x over and I’ll care a bit less if it breaks down, but would at least be nice to use it as a mini-camper for the summer. So I don’t mind doing a cambelt and sticking some tyres on it. I’d love to spend more £££ on something nicer, but I think it would be crazy to take out a loan on the assumption of a payday in the Spring given the likelihood of the job being cancelled due to COVID!

Hired a Berlingo Maxi 1.9D on hols … seemed fine round Mallorca and didn’t seem particularly thirsty. OH caught me measuring the back with the seats down so I must have been happy enough 😉

Best advice is to find a good example of whatever you buy, and to keep an open mind when reading lots of adverts.
Good condition, sensible mileage. well maintained cars are out there. Always a bit thin on the ground, always lots of dross for sale.
A decent car can be had for £900, seek it out.

Diesels are never as good in winter as summer. They use more fuel than the summer figures. They also take ages to warm up so a re pretty dire for short journeys

I used to have a 1.9 ZX it would do 50 to the gallon but I am not a particularly fast driver and found the 1.9 to be gutless (non turbo). Cambelt on ZX was done on drive (assuming same room in engine bay). Re petrol Vs diesel mpg figures I tend to find diesel figures seem to be more accurate irrespective of make (try honest john real mpg)

Cambelt on ZX was done on drive (assuming same room in engine bay).

I think they kept the same architecture but changed to lighter materials

Best advice is to find a good example of whatever you buy, and to keep an open mind when reading lots of adverts.
Good condition, sensible mileage. well maintained cars are out there. Always a bit thin on the ground, always lots of dross for sale.
A decent car can be had for £900, seek it out.

Yea, I’d been keeping an eye on Berlingo’s and their derivatives locally and there’s been a lot of high mileage absolute wrecks advertised for £2k+ since COVID turned everyone into an Amazon delivery driver. This one looks almost worryingly tidy! 106k, the interior looks mint, and it’s even the outdoorsy version with plastic light guards and a bit of ground clearance!

[edit, just stuck the details into compare the meerkats and it’s come up as 1997cc HDI, which I think makes it the common rail turbo version? The add says 1.9D (could be a mistake?), and there’s a wobble in the mileage a few years ago but again that looks like a mistake as it’s done 20,000miles in a year, fails an mot, then has done 10,000 less the next day. Might have to have a closer look].

I need something either small-van or MPV shaped for work as I tend to pack the car with Peli-cases and keep them there for 6 months. The added advantage of a Berlingo derivative would be the potential to stick a camp bed in the back and kip on-site rather than go back to the hotel.

a 1.9 non-turbo is going to be very slow. A mate had a 306 with (I think) the same engine years ago, I drove it a couple of times, motorways were suboptimal – took a long while to get up to speed and needed shifting to 4th on hills. It could hold 70 though. I imagine a significantly less aerodynamic berlingo would be worse for this

Had a 1.9d non turbo xantia and ir was woefully slow and not very economical either.

At that mileage you may be looking at a new clutch in the near future. The cost of a dmf for a diesel can render it worthless. I’m regretting not buying a petrol version of my civic.

If it’s the 2.0HDi, and in decent condition (and the mileage thing is a genuine mistake), I would jump on it!

I’ve never owned the 1.9 diesel, but a lot of people seem to think it’s gutless, as above, so people will avoid it. The 2.0HDi is great (I had one, only got rid because it had a dodgy synchromesh, but probably should have kept it) – as powerful, but more robust than the 1.6 – but not many of them around.

Plenty of mot testers cant type a few numbers.

They are cheap because slow. Everyone wants the 2.0hdi as you say wrecks go for big money.

The older 1.6s less big money . The 2.0 was a less troublesome design.

That said on the motorway. They are fine it’s b roads where you need to overtake it’s an issue. Ours sat on the peage to Alps at 130kph no bother. And cruise wasn’t needed as that was foot to the floor the whole way. Still got 42 mpg. -45 is the most you’ll see.

We have had 2 1.9s one van one multispace and both perfectly capable cars . Easy to work on.

The deal breaker is -van should start quickly when turned over. Seller will tell you it’s glowplugs if it doesn’t. It is not glowplugs it will be shimming of the hydraulic tappet buckets. That’s a cam shaft out job to shim and finding the correct shim package is a pain.

Cambelts easy done on the drive.

Parts are cheap. Easy to work on.

Look at rear of sills for rust and front subframe.

My dad had the 1.9 – he had to plan overtaking, but for practicality it was great. Just a bit slow.

It is not glowplugs it will be shimming of the hydraulic tappet buckets. That’s a cam shaft out job to shim and finding the correct shim package is a pain.

I once done that on the peugeot/citroen 1.5 diesel pushed the bucket down with a large screwdriver (against camshaft) then carefully flicked the shim out with a scribe (do not put fingers near bucket whilst pushing down or you could lose fingertip) then swapped shims at local engine builders £2 a shim swap (think I only needed 3) refitted reversal of removal was a morning including going to engine builder.

I once done that on the peugeot/citroen 1.5 diesel pushed the bucket down with a large screwdriver (against camshaft) then carefully flicked the shim out with a scribe (do not put fingers near bucket whilst pushing down or you could lose fingertip) then swapped shims at local engine builders £2 a shim swap (think I only needed 3) refitted reversal of removal was a morning including going to engine builder.

Similar except in this case the shim lives inside the bucket betwixt the valve and the bucket so you have to lift out the bucket to get at them.

There’s no short cuts with it im afraid

I had one in 04-06 – 1.9D and it was brilliant – absolutely no performance but it went well either fully laden (whacker plate, Alsatian dog and 6 lads with trailbuilding gear) or empty, just didn’t get there quickly.

I used to enjoy trying to beat the boy racers at traffic lights, knowing full well I wouldn’t, but they were always impressed I was trying. It wasn’t about the race, more about the fact something that slow was actually trying to have a go!

I wrote it off in a crash and vowed to get another some day…and I have now, still a brilliant machine.

I had a BX estate with that engine. Hands down the worst car I’ve owned.

Very slow and agricultural engine and not especially frugal. Think it did 40mpg max.

That said, for £900 what does it matter?

That said, for £900 what does it matter?

at 1,000 miles a week (4 hours per working day?), I think it’d be worth spending a little more for something thats not frustratingly slow.

at 1,000 miles a week (4 hours per working day?), I think it’d be worth spending a little more for something thats not frustratingly slow.

For the ops motorway driving…..how much faster than the speedlinit does he need to be going ?

My only reservation is even the youngest ones will be getting long in the tooth

I had one for a few years ages ago. Think was a 55 plate. It was great and didn’t think it was all that slow. It’s a van anyway. Depends what you’re used to I suppose. Don’t think it gave me any trouble apart from the battery dying one freezing winter.

The back axles seize and are expensive.

The back axles seize and are expensive.

– can and only if you go to a garage to fit them.

235 quid on exchange basis , wheels off , 6 bolts through the floor and 6 bolts each side for the brake back plates to the axle.

One of the easier jobs ibe worked on but i wouldn’t do it on a 900 quid car , just be sure when you look at it that the rear wheels dont point in badly at the top – they dont tend to fail dramatically/quickly its more of a gradual failure

Gutless wonder.

PM me the reg and I’ll confirm the model for you.

I had one new (for work) in 2005, which I presume is around the same age as the one you are looking at, considering its price.
Totally gutless. Not just slow, but HGV and trailer slow.
Even the Dealer called it a ‘slug’ when I asked if it was restricted. It wasnt.
They also have a very low air intake, so dont go through any water more than 150mm deep. The clutch disintegrated on mine at 6 months old. The Dealer said it was ‘wear and tear’. Was it bollocks, it had shattered, not worn.
My next van was a Vauxhall Combo. It was superior in every way.

I sold a HDI 2.0 for £50 the week before lock down, I do regret this. See forum name.

They also have a very low air intake

I assure you they don’t.

I’m not going to deny it’s slow. But it does not have a low air intake

Infact the only way it could be any higher is if you stuck it out the bonnet vertically.

If you are talking about the 1.9D N/A (non turbo) they are under powered, about 90 BHP and slow. If you are used to driving modern vans that are car-a-like, it’s like going back 20-30 years, so is the interior! They do have lots of low end torque so can haul/tow heavy loads. Remember it’s a van for hauling shit around not a sports car!

The engines themselves are tough simple old units often used as taxis and capable of high mileage, 300,000 miles is not unheard of. But during that period you will liley have to:

1) Replace the clutch due to the release bearing tube collapsing rather than the plates wearing out
2) Re-seal (liquid gasket) upper engine oil gallery gasket (access is a PIA) that leaks oil all over the engine, sometimes the sump gasket as well
3) The gearbox end plate bolts can come loose and leak the contents of the gearbox out with some run dry for years resulting in a shagged gearbox!
4) Gearbox cable clasps break (same problem as Vivaro’s and derivatives)
5) Replace the exhaust/parts of the exhaust if it hasn’t already been done
6) Throttle cables can snap
7) The plastic engine idler pulley bearings become squeaky/noisy while the engine is running and need replacing (relatively easy job)
8) Ignition advance solenoids fail (engine runs lumpy)
9) Pilot injector needs replacing/refurbishing, if unlucky a few (you hear Diesel knock rough running when cold)
10) The EGR valve will at the least need a clean
11) Clutch master cylinders leak, visible under the clutch pedal in the cab
12) Brake master cylinder seals wear out (can be refurbished)

69bhp.

Test drive it make up your mind.

I’ve had 2 and would buy again. Ours went to 130 and 140k. We had the shimming of the tappets on one and the clutch on another-after towing an mwb transit throttle cables do snap and will continue to do so regularly unless you replace with genuine. Anything from the factors won’t last.

Only got rid of them because I needed a bigger van and the wife was transporting other folks children for work in her own car and the safety aspect of a 13 year old car didn’t sit well with me.

Went to look at it, it was a bit rattier than the photos but not too bad.

Had a power steering fault though, you could feel it kick in/out several times on a corner. Might just have been low fluids but then something must have been leaking and I didnt fancy buying a problem even if it would have been one that could probably been fixed.

at 1,000 miles a week (4 hours per working day?), I think it’d be worth spending a little more for something thats not frustratingly slow.

I’m firmly in the camp of sticking R4 on and cruising when it comes to work miles. My last car was a poverty spec c-max which I put 120,000 miles on before it got written off, i did stick some ebc greenstuff brakes on it for shits’n’giggles, stuck a decent stereo in it and despite its general lack of pretensions at being anything other than a school run machine, I sent it airborne off more than one humpback bridge and took it green laneing in Scotland (more rocky than green, there were a few sections which had me out the car to sus them out and regrettting taking directions to the pub off a local 😂). But that wasn’t part of its job description!

Its a round trip commute from Reading to Manchester for a couple of days at a time a couple of times a week. Day to day tends to be a round trip to a couple of sites morning and evening. So either a long motorway waft or too short to really get frustrated.

Like shit n slow less to go wrong.

The 2l 90bhp hdi would be my choice however…

We had a couple if 1.9 non turbos in work. Became the forfeit vans if you’ve done something wrong, you have to drive it for a week. Very slow acceleration.

Replaced with much newer ones, and what I have now, a 1.6hdi. great engines, fairly quick and pull well.

This in a 2.0l versions I would think would be great.

Meet Benoît* the Berlingo.

2.0 HDI, he has 130k on the clock, 10 days MOT, a dent in the boot and one of the sliding doors doesnt open. We’ll find out later in the week whether he turns out to be a bargain or not!

On the upside he has a stamp and an invoice for every sigle mot, service and wiper blade right back to the original sales invoice!

He also has a full length sunroof, perfect for expanding my post brexit and covid career choices into dry weather grandfather clock transport.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jT9JEB]2020-10-12_05-08-25[/url] by thisisnotaspoon, on Flickr

*

door not opening will be an mot fail
good luck !

Meh it’s a sliding door it’s not rocket science.

The door would be the least of your issues.

I would throw it for.an mot and see what else it needs

Love the full length sun roof. If all else fails you can park the midget in the roof and weigh the lot in

door not opening will be an mot fail
good luck !

Only the fronts are part of the test. The rear only has to be opened to carry out the test (check seatbelts etc).

Meh it’s a sliding door it’s not rocket science.

The door would be the least of your issues.

I would throw it for.an mot and see what else it needs

That’s the plan, didn’t spot any faults, it’s had nothing in any previous MOT’s beyond the odd blown number plate bulb.

doors have to open for people to get out in a hurry.
maybe remove the back seats ?
Im assuming its got back seats as it has windows, so its a car not a van. My assumtion.
what is it ? car or van ?

Only the fronts are part of the test. The rear only has to be opened to carry out the test (check seatbelts etc).

Where’s that from.

Testers hand book says passenger doors must open from outside.

Load doors must secure shut.

Grandfather had a 1.9 205 N/A, was slow but he was 80 and was probably getting to/past the sight requirements…. did ok MPG wise for what he used it.

We have the BX TZD with the 1.9 turbo, much more usable.

Best car I had for long-distance commuting was a little Mk1 Yaris d4d. 70mpg on the drive from Cornwall to Watford and the occasional trip up to Berwick, £35 to tax and cheap to insure, oh and bombproof, flow plugs are a s**t design on these. Yaris Verso/Estate mini camper…. might be ok if your 4ft… can be done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sePNDgmYwGI

Hmmmm, I’ll have to ask my friendly tester what he thinks. Still has options, on the principle that its not a fail unless its present and acessible and broken then either test as a 2-seater or ductape over the handle 😁

Google came up with these which disagree with the handbook, recent change perhapse?

https://www.mot-test.net/mock-test/doors/#:~:text=If%20rear%20doors%20are%20fitted,to%20test%20other%20MOT%20items.&text=Broken%20or%20damaged%20hinges%20that,result%20in%20an%20MOT%20failure.

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=58803

Which obviously disagrees with the handbook, unless you interpret “passenger” as front passenger.

6.2.3. Doors and door catches
A lack of door handles due to the original design or a specialist modification is not a defect as long as the door can be latched securely in the closed position.

Driver and passenger doors must open from the outside using the relevant control.

Driver and front passenger doors must also open from the inside using the relevant control.

Load space doors must be able to be secured in the closed position.

You should only reject door hinges, catches and pillars for deterioration if it causes the doors not to work as intended.

I wouldn’t try and argue with anything other than what’s written in the testers hand book.

But its a sliding door….take inside cover off it’ll be a broken clip or the steel connecting rod between the handle to the catch at the rear is out of adjustment .

Once you have had sliding side doors you won’t go back anyway. Great in carparks