Few picees for your interest and polite comment

Been loving the peregrine with an alfine, heavy but perfect for south downs way mile munching.
I had the belt kit lying around after buying off the classifieds, so figured why not try it.
Bit of a risk cutting the frame it felt beefy enough, and seems to have worked out, as everything has come together fine ish.

I say ish as the belt is a fraction too long, prob 5mm.
I originally bought the belt kit with a 25T cog, but the alfine dictated a 24T and I figured I could get away with the small difference, but seems not.
Luckily I am in Germany this weekend and gates will post my mate a shorter belt for reasonable money.

Big thanks to Ben at kinetics for the work on the S and S couple, I had always fancied an excuse for one of these, and he did a top job.

Too early for a test ride as I do not want to damage the too long belt.

Is it the future – I do not think so, but been ages since I had a project, and this fits nicely.

Popping out now in the sunshine for a pottle 🙂

Nothing to add but to say that is lovely.
Disc cross bikes with a big set of tyres looks so nice.

Agree that it looks lovely.

With all the crap weather we’ve had I’ve been pondering something simpler and more weather proof – this looks exactly that.

Looking forward to a ride report.

I do like s&s couplings and that looks to be good use of one 🙂

Looks good to me. 😉

Want!

Nicely done. Thanks for posting pics…

I looked at doing this to my Peregrine a couple of years ago after several successful beltdrive conversions on other bikes.

When I fitted up the parts, the front cog was very close to the chainstay. Spacing out the front would have put it out of alignment with the rear, so there was not much option as belts have to be in perfect alignment.

That deterred me from proceeding because the chainstays on the Peregrine are quite flexy (part of that nice ride feeling). and I was already getting problems with chainstay contact when using a big front chainring.

There was a smaller choice of front rings back then though, and the EBB does allow a bit of latitude, so you are probably ok.

It’s a nice looking conversion on a great bike.

Thanks guys.
The front belt chainring I had was a 46 and it fitted in middle position with maybe 5mm clearance to the chainstays, which gave me pretty much spot on chainline ( figured I can move the EBB a bit to get it perfect. Cranks are super stiff, and back end as stiff as any bike I have ever had, so hopeful no issues. Only potential prob is if the shorter belt I have just bought is too short, we will see.

The 46 is smaller than I had, so doesn’t look like you’ll have a problem with the front fit.

Is yours the new CenterTrack belt system, or is it the original type?

Enjoy the silence while riding. You’ll find chains noisy now. 🙂

That is very nice, good work.

The belt stuff is the older version, so NON centre track.
Centre track seesm to give many more gear options.
I downloaded the free gates tensioning app, which picks up vibrations to determine tension.
Clever little app..

Saddle’s looking a bit tired mate :O)
Nice build and lovely coupling.
A mate in Lewes has one and is a big fan (Peregrine that is)

Good work big fella!

I downloaded the free gates tensioning app, which picks up vibrations to determine tension.
Clever little app..

Love it. 😀

How much did the S&S conversion cost if you don’t mind me asking?

looks great, that app i have found is the best way for tension i like mine at about 85hz it doesnt slip at all then

There is a French company who are now using tensioners on their belt frames.

It’d look a bit silly on that bike but it’s something to consider if needed

really podge? who?

Info here
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/gearbox-belt-drive-people

Also note the 9 speed gearbox with trigger shifter, I’m trying to get them to sell me one

Ha! just found the article on pinkbike!

I missed your thread about it as I was still in new-born baby minding mode a few months ago.

That is superb. Any idea on price?

(I couldn’t see any tensioners though…)

The tensioner is built in to the chainstay of the frame, I’ll see if I can link the pic on my phone

[/url]

.

doh!

Thanks, my fat fingers weren’t working this morning

thanks.
Not all the pics came up on my android tablet. They do on the PC

Now that’s interesting.
Gates have always said not to bend the belts back. I’ve often wondered about a tensioner inside the belt, but that wouldn’t really work on the tiny cogs Cavalerie are using, with bigger cogs though… but with a constant force spring, would allow for a tensioner to be used with a “normal” full sus bike.

Wonder why they bolt the dropouts in?, as far as I can see, they’re not a pivoting linkage.

And following from some of the comments on pinkbike, if the belt was stashed inside a carbon-fibre guard to protect it, it could actually be sealled away from the elemtns. And if that’s the case, there’s no need for open-sided or centre-track pulleys as there’d be no gloop to ooze out. So you could use a conventionel double-flanged pulley and industrial belt, which can be bent back, and more importantly, is cheaper and gives greater options for tweaking final drive ratio.

Would look gash on a hardtail, but on those bikes, it would…

That has come together very nicely 😉

Isn’t there a pulley that bolts to the mech hanger? I’m sure I’ve seen such a thing on other bikes. Would spoil the clean lines a bit, though.

Isn’t there a pulley that bolts to the mech hanger

You’re thinking of the “snubber”, which in theory stops the belt from lifting out of the rear sprocket when under load (if the pre-tension is low enough to allow it to). Doesn’t work though, I bent my Gates one as its a shoddy design with no mechanical strength. Built a new one integrated into the dropout, and it did work.

Gates Snubber:

DSC_0174 by ir_bandito, on Flickr

Integrated Version:

DSC_0095 by ir_bandito, on Flickr

Ir, there was a home made carbon urt posted on here about a week ago, that had a semi enclosed system

It was not a good looking bike but it was interesting

I think the idea of bolting those dropouts on is that it gives wheelbase options. It’d also allow different belt lengths to be used for different gear ratios with minimal tensioning

Oh yes, I saw it.

Alternative way of tensioning the belt would be to put some adjustment into the attachement of the dropout to the swingarm. Let it pivot about one bolt and clamp the other, like a Black Cat/Paragon/Salsa swinging dropout.

I really should just have a go at bike designing myself.

How’s your french? Video of the Effigear:
http://www.zapiks.com/boite-effigear-bike-cavaleri.html

Ooooh, I’ll have a look at that at lunch

Bike designing is easy, sticking with one realistic manageable design is difficult

I cannot see the need for an additional tensionser/ snubber.
The EBB is the perfect method to ensure correct tension, and I would not consider adding anything else to the system.
A bought a belt guide for the spare rear cog I have, which should stop the belt trying to walk off, if I end up using this on another bike. Be nice if a belt guide was available for the alfine, but figure there is not enough room on the alfine hub to mount one.
I ended up buying the gates eco-tensioner aswell, as it was cheap, and I had heard mixed comments about the app frequency method for tensioning.

Interesting that effigear uses spur gears when everyone else, as far as I know, uses epicyclics.
I guess that makes it easier to produce and a lot easier to offer different gear ratios or numbers of gears.

Further to ir-bandito’s post above, I’ve done a few thousand km SS or Rohloff with a Gates CentreTrack with no snubber.
I’ve had a few problems, but not caused by the lack of snubber. I really can’t see what it’s supposed to do.

Since fitting Centre-track I’ve not used a snubber either and have had no problems

DSC_0291 by ir_bandito, on Flickr

But there is a reason I had to buy Centretrack:

DSC_0293 by ir_bandito, on Flickr

Why did the belt snap ?
Poor tension ?
Poor alignment ?
What do i need to look out for.. ?

It snapped after getting mashed again and again initially when it wasn’t tenasioned enough and the suspension linakges caused the back end to flex a lot. It slipped off repeatedly under load which I think damaged it on the inside.

Fitting new dropouts with the integrated snubber, integrated tensioners and slightly changed geometry to allow me to get more constant tension in, and using a bolt-in hub to stiffen the back end up, took away the problem, but the damage was already done.

Okay.
Well done in persevering to make it work.

Very nice! Looks like you got a pretty good colour match on the rear as well.

Peugeot Diablo red, from Halfords 😉