Hello all,

Needing a bit of advice. Have started a new job that is a reasonable 9 mile distance away and contemplating cycling to and from. Not particularly wanting to bastardise my Soul with slick tyres etc so contemplating getting a new bike through the works cycle to work scheme.
Now, road bikes are a bit of a mystery to me (DARKSIDE), I’ve never ridden a bike with droopy handlebobs before, and the whole situation is being complicated further by my desire for mud guards and rack mounts. So, I’m looking for suggestions for a starter commuter bike, 700-800 max to leave me room in my budget to buy lights, rack etc etc. Shops that I can source it from are limited to a few small locals, Evans, and Leisurelakes online.

Have been eyeing up the Charge Filter that others have posted about here, this seems like a perfect solution? What else? What to look for?
Help with the size would also be good – I’m 5’11 with regulation length limbs. 🙂

Just exploring my options at the moment, not looking to run out and buy this immediately. Any suggestions and advice gratefully received!
Cheers.

Is it too hilly to singlespeed it?

The fewer the moving bits, the longer it’ll last with little maintenance

a few climbs, yeah! Wouldn’t want to SS it immediately, for fear of putting myself off. I hear what you say re maintenance though, hence the reason for buying a separate bike – I don’t fancy replacing my mtb drivetrain on a regular basis…

How about a cyclocross bike? Bit more laid back than a full on road bike, off-road capable, rack mounts, loads of space for mudguards and wider tyres and some of them come with disc brakes.

Something like this:
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/tricross-sport-disc-2012-road-bike-ec030754

Bit heavier than a regular road bike but more able to cope with city roads, panniers etc. Really good do-it-all bikes and if there’s any option for you to commute via towpaths, city parks etc, the CX will take it on.

first question, urban or rural, if the later get a roadbike, fit guards, slogging into a headwind at the end of the day is not the place for heroics, particularly if you want to ride the next day.

err, rural, very rural! CX bike was my thinking, exp as a more ‘flexible’ option, hence the Charge suggestion. mrmo, I get that but I would also like to fit a rack – and from pictures on the internet its hard to work out which road bikes allow this – it appears few? Not sure I’m ready for a hardcore skinny wheeled beast!
Thanks for the replies so far.

A mate has the Filter – decent bike, if a bit lardy.

My potential C2W shortlist is the Kaffenback disc, Boardman CX or Pinnacle Arkrose – just waiting to be told who the supplier will be. Still. 👿

most winter training road bikes are flexible wnough to fit a light rack to. Be aware that like road bikes there are cross bikes and there are cross bikes. some will be flexible but as cross in its truest form has no need for waterbottles and mudguards the mounts won’t always be there.

good point mrmo, thanks.
anyone care to share what bike they’re riding?
think a visit to evans might be the way forward to clear the head. What an awful prospect! 0_o

I rate my spesh crosstrails sport disc. its on the heavy side but the forks take the sting out of potholes and with the discs I feel more secure on the road, knowing I can slow down/stop quickly if some assclown pulls out in front of me. replaced the tyres with landcruisers though as they were puncture magnets

plenty of fittings for guards and racks, not that I use them. I’m 6ft, large fits me well.

My commuter on holiday, for reference doing c17miles each way

Single speed it even if a bit hilly you will be surprised how quick you adapt and how much fitter it makes you. Plus grit salt will ruin chains and cassettes for fun in the winter. Also single speed is a lot lighter. Just pick up an old road frame and build your own you’d be able to do it with second hand bits for a lot less than 700.

Plus grit salt will ruin chains and cassettes for fun in the winter.

I hear this alot and IMO it is b******s, i change the cassette and chain once a year and just get on with it. the rear mech is c6 years old the front 10, chainrings are 5years old. Clean and oil regularly and it will work.

Remember the commuter pays the bills the fun bike doesn’t, if you need new tyres etc then buy them . stash a few inner tubes at work just in case. But don’t fiddle, fiddling is what causes things to break.

I hear this alot and IMO it is b******s, i change the cassette and chain once a year and just get on with it. the rear mech is c6 years old the front 10, chainrings are 5years old. Clean and oil regularly and it will work.
Remember the commuter pays the bills the fun bike doesn’t, if you need new tyres etc then buy them . stash a few inner tubes at work just in case. But don’t fiddle, fiddling is what causes things to break.

Salt corrodes metal so yes it will nacker everything up quicker. The amount of bikes we get in over the winter that need full new drive trains because of winter commuting is crazy.

Salt corrodes metal so yes it will nacker everything up quicker. The amount of bikes we get in over the winter that need full new drive trains because of winter commuting is crazy.

then maybe the problem is people should clean the bike? as i said the commuter is the bike that pays bills and to an extent needs more tlc than the play bike.

+1 for the crosser with discs and mudguard eyelets; a quick change of tyres makes it a suitable trainer/sportive bike as well should you ever get the urge.

Thanks for the replies so far everyone, some good advice. Thinking a crosser will be the way forward, even looking at the bridleways on route for short cuts – probably a bit too extreme for day to day commuting! 😛